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b/l you talking body lift?
completely different type of lift.
so far, this thread is about suspension lift.
body lift is basically pucks (couple extra parts) that fit between the frame and body.

if you mean, overall lift of truck then basically yes.
keep in mind, depending on current equipment wear, you may pay for 2" of lift but not get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
If I put in air lift helper springs in the rear with an dual add a leaf, do I need new shackles to get a 2" lift in the rear? Does the air lift replace the rear shocks, or do the rear shocks stay? If the rear shocks stay, should I upgrade them to bilstein 5100's with 2" lift length?
 

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If I put in air lift helper springs in the rear with an dual add a leaf, do I need new shackles to get a 2" lift in the rear? Does the air lift replace the rear shocks, or do the rear shocks stay? If the rear shocks stay, should I upgrade them to bilstein 5100's with 2" lift length?

The air bags add about 1/2" of lift themselves.

The two leaf aal is 2.5" lift iirc so if you add airbags you will probably be around 3"

The shocks stay.

You don't necessarily need to replace your rear shocks with 2" lift or less if they are not worn out.



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Discussion Starter #66
The air bags add about 1/2" of lift themselves.

The two leaf aal is 2.5" lift iirc so if you add airbags you will probably be around 3"

The shocks stay.

You don't necessarily need to replace your rear shocks with 2" lift or less if they are not worn out.



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How much lift does a single add a leaf add?
 

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Discussion Starter #68
With your truck being a 2012, it really depends on how your leafs look now, if they're pretty flat it may get you back to normal. If your springs are good, I'd say maybe 1.5".
So then a single add a leaf, plus the air lifts, will give about 2" but the air lift I am sure effects min and max left right? So as the leafs start to sag, it can be boosted with the air lift?

The leafs in the back are good. I just bought my 2012 in July, it only had 25,000 miles on it. I now have 30k lol 5,000 miles since July lol
 

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why are you leaning toward aal + airbags instead of extended adjustable shackles + airbags?

The airbags are already going to support any added weight - no real need to do aal (at least for capacity reasons).
 

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Discussion Starter #70
why are you leaning toward aal + airbags instead of extended adjustable shackles + airbags?

The airbags are already going to support any added weight - no real need to do aal (at least for capacity reasons).
So your saying no need for the aal at all? Especially if I upgrade to bilstein 5100's in the rear?

So what would the rear ride be like with the shackles, air lift, and 5100's on the highway, rough dirt road, and rock crawling?
 

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We just installed prg shackles and Firestone air bags on my dads '11 pro4x w/ 30k. Stock shocks, no aal.

It rides silky smooth on the road. It is surprising how good it rides (10 psi in air bags). Significantly better than stock imo.

We also towed my boat with it (4000 lbs, 400-450lbs tongue wt). It was also an extremely comfortable ride. Waaaaaay better than my ome hd leafs. No comparison at all. Truck still sat with stock rake with the boat hooked up and 30 psi in the air bags. I am very impressed with them and will be installing them on my stock '15 very soon.


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This thread is stickied so I assume its the place to go with overdone questions... Supsension's the one thing I've never wrenched on, and since I'll be doing this on the farm in the middle of nowhere I can't risk having my truck torn apart and realizing I'm short some small bit and now stranded.

I've got OME replacement leaf packs and u-bolts on the way and thinking I might as well just throw in some billstein 5100's while I'm at it. So to avoid headache,

- All I need for 1.5-2" adjustable lift in the front are the 5100 adjustable height shocks, aka I can reuse all the factory hardware/coil? No winch/bumper plans in the near future, but down the road maybe.

- Camber bolts are a must I'm told, what are the odds that I need to replace the LCA's? This part is a bit of a wildcard, I don't want to get the install half done only to find out I need to go out and spend $300 on a new control arm. Even if I do have to cut the bolts, can you generally save the LCA somehow? Or with enough patience work around that somehow? I've found decent prices on all the lift parts, the LCA's are a dealbreaker though.

- Dakar leafs in the back should give me 1.5-2" lift, so then 5100's matched to that is all I need to worry about there?

- All brake lines/ABS cables should be fine with up to 2" lift?

- Am I missing anything else? Sounds like I shouldn't need shims for the replacement leaf packs, and the shop is telling me everything includes all the needed bushings/etc.

End of the day I'll have ordered leaf packs, front height adj shocks, rear shocks, u-bolts, and possibly a camber kit. Eventually I'll add bumpers and a winch but not this year. Last but not least I don't want to break the bank, but don't wanna take shortcuts either (ie. spacers).
 

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Do get the machined steel 4 degree shims.
Easier to put them in now while you are doing all this
and you will need them as the Dakar springs have a
flatter angle that needs compensating.
 

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Do get the machined steel 4 degree shims.
Easier to put them in now while you are doing all this
and you will need them as the Dakar springs have a
flatter angle that needs compensating.
Any reason it's 4 degrees specifically? I've been seeing 2 and 3 recommended in some cases, never 4. But I'm all for doing keeping things easy on my drivetrain.
 

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Using a digital protractor and a level on the drive shaft and the
pinion flange netted a 4 1/2 degree deflection and it was noisy.
After installing the 4 degree shims the difference in angles was
real close to zero and the driveline is now quiet.

Best to measure angles before you tear it apart so you have
a base line. The CV joint wears to a particular pattern and likes
to be in the same place. Pinion angle on mine was real close to
zero from the factory.

http://wolferacecraft.com/pinionangle.aspx

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.asp

More info that goes way beyond what you really need to get
it all together for now.

Good Luck and be carefull.
 

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Does anyone know anything abut Tokico Shocks? Found a never installed pair on my local craigslist for pretty cheap, and was looking for some feedback or first hand experience; model is ge3604. I have an 2007 OR just turning 90,000, daily driver, not much Off road other than trips to VT where I'll hit a few logging roads.

Suspension is on the summer to do list (its a long list this summer) so thought I might save a few bucks if it isn't much of a down grade from like a Bilstein 5125s.
 

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So, quick question here … Can I add 2.5 strut spacers to a PRO-4X ? I have a 2014 with 2 inch strut spacers. Everywhere I look I get "does not fit Pro-4x …. what's the deal? Help help please
 

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So, quick question here … Can I add 2.5 strut spacers to a PRO-4X ? I have a 2014 with 2 inch strut spacers. Everywhere I look I get "does not fit Pro-4x …. what's the deal? Help help please
You can but you will get coil bucket contact. If you have aftermarket upper control arms like SPC's then you can avoid this issue. Note that you will still need to grind about 1/4-1/2" off the coil bucket to clear the ball joint boot.
 
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