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I did this will all parts I had laying around the garage, I only had to buy the converter harness to go from factory plugs to wires for head unit. I've changed some things since I took these pictures but no time to change post. Hope soon as you have to click on links to see the pics. Anyways some Ideas for ya. TIP, The Sub MAKES it!

Start to finish for experience installer is about 8 hours, Cost was less than Factory RF Option. Bonus was name brand you choose components! Or dig out of stock heh heh!

I have an s model 2005 xterra, objective 1580 watts, 1 10" Sub in RR, Double Din Head unit, Amps in floor in back, upgrade speakers, maintain factory look and inconspicuous appearance so thieves don't gank my ship, And bolt it down with all security screws so if they do try to steal it, it won't be worth anything to them either. I'm maintaining a conservative look. But I can feel the music! It sounds much better than factory RF system, (sorry Guys)

Get the head unit out.
The tray above it pull straight up, Clips are on the sides, use a very small flat screwdriver. Best to start at FR side as you sit in vehicle.
Get that out, There is one screw in center just below it. Remove.
Now the whole center panel comes out. Just carefully pull straight back.
Undo all the wires because if ya let it hang a clip will scratch the dash at bottom.

Stereo is held in with 4 very visible screws. Brackets on stereo easily transfer to a new Double Din Unit and likewise probably a single din.
Speaker wires can be used for an aftermarket install saving you the hassle of running new ones, Use a battery to test the leads before you unhook old speakers. You can obtain aftermarket wire harness converter that keeps all factory plugs unharmed. The colors are different from radio end to speaker end so you have to test them out.

Door panels are all the same. Proceed as follows.
On either side of the handle that you pull on are small panels. These lift straight up and off. I used a sturdy putty knife, and a small flat driver.
At the handle (Latch) that you use to open the door, the chrome one, each side of that circular part pulls straight out, I used a small flat screwdriver. Once you have these 4 parts out, Also lift out and unplug power window panel. then you will see screws 10 mm or cross or flat takes them out.
Now use a putty knife and get under panel at bottom (In case you scratch no one sees it) put knife in and pull towards you to dislodge the clips, once you get em started you can do it by hand. Panel lifts directly up up up. Use no outward pressure. Your speakers are now exposed. 6X9 in front and an integrated 6.5 in the rear. Front is a direct replacement. I had to have an adapter plate to install the rear since it was some sort of wierdo factory deal. There is room in there for 6X9's also if someone wants to do some fab, it can be done. I just wired regular speaker leads into factory wires so as not to ruin the clip in case I return the system to factory. Install panels in reverse order. Actually pretty easy, but note that the clips are very strong, it almost feels like you are going to break them when you are taking them out. Be easy, use broad tools when you can. If you are chicken mask off where you pry.

I used the rear floor compartment for both amps. (barely fit) I can install a Fan but I am listening to my unit, not playing it for the people 9 cars over ....just 4. So Heat should not be an issue. If it is, I have a 12 V fan ready to cool things down. After testing I know no fan will be needed. I'm cool. Notice in Pic one slants, allows extra air circulation.

The sub is a custom box in RR area, Dealer said ok to use it, just leave room for air to pass to the area when heater is on recalculate it draws air through that panel. Let it breath. I maintain ability for the roller cover to be drawn over everything so when parked I can hide the sub. Some aftermarket Subs were available. But I did not like the location. You hardly notice it where it is at. It is also covered in Vinyl so as to keep with the Xterra theme,,,,, everything you need, nothing you don't. Mark said traditional speaker carpet looks tacky. Mark was right. It looks great!

After all this it's just a matter of run the wires hook them up and tune it all.
Manual points out don't connect directly to battery because Alt will not "Read" the load and thus not keep the Batt fully charged. They give you plenty of places at the Battery to hook pos after the fuse, do that and ground to nearby frame location.

My wires to rear amps are run from Bat, Back to firewall Over to Driver side and in at the boot behind and below brake reservoir. Then they follow the natural path of under the kick panels and carpet on the driver side to the rear cargo area. Speaker wires from amps were run on pass side to back of head unit.

All I had left over was 4 Speakers intact and a head unit. On the shelf!


photo1: Sub in Rear Vinyl finish, Sounds great! Notice cover still functions. No Cheap blk/gry carpet look, wipes clean.
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2059.jpg
photo2: This is a Panel that slides into Cd slot Hides Head unit.
easy to make with project box from RadioCrap. (shack)
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2061.jpg
photo3: These are the Amps, 1 1000 1 400 Head unit is 180 (on tap)
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2063.jpg
photo4: VA XC on face of head untt! Programable, Cool eh? Notice plays CD, Cassette, and has Aux in to play anything with a headphone jack!
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2064.jpg
photo5: Anothe head unit shot. I got this unit 80% off, I have 2.
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2065.jpg
photo6: Close of of anti theft cover, no see no steal. I hate theives!
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2067.jpg
photo7: Where I put my XM, The newer Roady is in the works, will fit better no wires showing.
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2068.jpg
photo8: Key Mod, Anti Theft Key blocker. (Home made.)

Make your own, spray cap, clay type JB weld, spare key you get the idea. I left this at dealer and they called me to ask what to do to start it. LOL It freeks everyone out.

http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2069.jpg

Any questions fee free.

Happy Trails!
MC
 

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Great write up USMC. I'm getting ready to do a similar setup with stuff that's laying around. When I bought my X they had one right next to it with the RF and the salesman could understand why I wanted the one without. I tried to explain that for the extra $1K, I can put one hell of a system in the X. Since you have had everything apart, I have a couple questions.

Is it safe to assume there is a fair amount of depth available in the front door speaker location? Obvioulsy the window does not go down that far so I assume I have the full depth of the door?

Do you see any reason why a 6.5" component speaker couldn't be installed up front? I have a set and since the X already has a front tweeter location, the install for a new tweeter woudl be simple.

Are you running an amp for the door speakers, or just of the HU? I noticed you are using the existing speaker wiring from teh factory HU to the speakers. How is it working out? Are they decent enough to handle a proper amp?

Any light dimming issues with having the amp?

Is your custom box a simple rectangular shape, or does it have a deeper section that goes into the RR cargo holder?

I'm thinking of putting an amp under each front seat (One for a single sub and the other for the doors).

When I get my crap together and a few free hours, I'll take some pics of the install, especially if I do a 6.5 component up front.
 

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I did my stereo install and I was very impressed with how easy it was. The head unit install is pretty easy. The front doors have lots of room. I have a DIY set of components running active through a Next 4.400 amp. The Sea's RNX18 are 6.5" in the front door and measure about 2.75" deep and with a custom 3/4" 6x9" to 6.5" spacer they fit just fine. Both front seats have tons of room for amps underneath. I have the Next amp under the drivers seat and a JL 500/1 under the passenger seat. I will have to get some pictures of my install up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your answers are bold.
KnightArmour said:
Great write up USMC. I'm getting ready to do a similar setup with stuff that's laying around. When I bought my X they had one right next to it with the RF and the salesman could understand why I wanted the one without. I tried to explain that for the extra $1K, I can put one hell of a system in the X. Since you have had everything apart, I have a couple questions.

Is it safe to assume there is a fair amount of depth available in the front door speaker location? Obvioulsy the window does not go down that far so I assume I have the full depth of the door?
Yes, a lot of room in front, 2ohm 6X9's in an 05 from factory.

Do you see any reason why a 6.5" component speaker couldn't be installed up front? I have a set and since the X already has a front tweeter location, the install for a new tweeter woudl be simple.
I don't see why not, But I used a Alpine triaxle, 6X9 and the factory tweeter in the dash. You may have some adapting to do . If you try to stick with factory sizes at least the accoustics will be same. I did an adapter plate in rear, Not because I wantd to , but i used on hand speakers and the factory size was quite odd.

Are you running an amp for the door speakers, or just of the HU?
Some how I ended up with a Bunch of amps in the garage, But I used two shown in pics for this instal, One 4 Channel running all the door speakers and the one 1000 amp running just the Sub.

Inoticed you are using the existing speaker wiring from teh factory HU to the speakers. How is it working out? Are they decent enough to handle a proper amp?
They work perfect, monster wire looks great but it's not all what it is cracked up to be. Why rip your X up running new wires when the factory ones sound fine? Retain the seal, use the factory wire. You will need a converter for the harness, I don't know what one, any stereo shop has it.
Any light dimming issues with having the amp?
Nope, Not a one.

Is your custom box a simple rectangular shape, or does it have a deeper section that goes into the RR cargo holder?
This was the part the was the most work and thought, I talked it over with dealer, you see, the air exchage system on the x utilizes the space behind that speaker for air flow when you have heater on fresh air. So you can't totally block it. So air goes behind it. It's a basic custom shape measured out like any sub box, Use a cardboard template and beging hacking. I made one mistake I could have avoided, I blocked my 12V outlet! LOL I can move it though. Also, I have it sized so I can pull the cover back over it so no theives see the sub and realize nice system inside. And, Still can use the anchor track.

I'm thinking of putting an amp under each front seat (One for a single sub and the other for the doors).
That's a good location, But you see I put mine in rear cargo area that has little use for anything else. Plus I was concerned about water damage, You ever see the Yellow Submarine video on VAXC? Water gets under seats first. Bye bye amp!

When I get my crap together and a few free hours, I'll take some pics of the install, especially if I do a 6.5 component up front.

Hookie Dookie, The more installs and Ideas the better for future installers. Have a nice install.

MC
 

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You got me confused... how does it work?

USMC XTERRA said:
photo8: Key Mod, Anti Theft Key blocker. (Home made.)

Make your own, spray cap, clay type JB weld, spare key you get the idea. I left this at dealer and they called me to ask what to do to start it. LOL It freeks everyone out.

http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2069.jpg
 

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BGXterra said:
You got me confused... how does it work?

USMC XTERRA said:
photo8: Key Mod, Anti Theft Key blocker. (Home made.)

Make your own, spray cap, clay type JB weld, spare key you get the idea. I left this at dealer and they called me to ask what to do to start it. LOL It freeks everyone out.

http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2069.jpg
That makes two of us.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mtdewmike said:
BGXterra said:
You got me confused... how does it work?

USMC XTERRA said:
photo8: Key Mod, Anti Theft Key blocker. (Home made.)

Make your own, spray cap, clay type JB weld, spare key you get the idea. I left this at dealer and they called me to ask what to do to start it. LOL It freeks everyone out.

http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2069.jpg
That makes two of us.
You get any key and make one and you make one with the real key.
When the fake one in in, car can't start but it hides the hole. Freeks people out. Crooks think it's some new type anti theft device they know nothing about and just pass you by.

When the real one is in, car will start, still freaks people out, dealer even could not figure out how to start car. Plus car won't "Accedently lock on ya when camping and such with this key in. I just use the remote to lock and unlock. Leave keys in car.)
And, he was the one who gave me the key that does not work.
 

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Im still confused about that (probably because i dont see a pic)

Fix the pics please because this is an extremely great write up that i want to start on ASAP.

Oh by the way I have 2 12in punch P2's and a four channel kicker amp. You think that might be too much for the X to handle (I used to drive a suburban).
 

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Yeah I am still confused post a pic please
 

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All your pictures are out to lunch - need them reposted!
 

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USMC XTERRA said:
OH great! My wife deleted the pictures! I'll have to fix it soon, soory!
8 8 06 MC

I did this will all parts I had laying around the garage, I only had to buy the converter harness to go from factory plugs to wires for head unit.

Start to finish for experience installer is about 8 hours, Cost was less than Factory RF Option. Bonus was name brand you choose components! Or dig out of stock heh heh!

I have an s model 2005 xterra, objective 1580 watts, 1 10" Sub in RR, Double Din Head unit, Amps in floor in back, upgrade speakers, maintain factory look and inconspicuous appearance so thieves don't gank my ship, And bolt it down with all security screws so if they do try to steal it, it won't be worth anything to them either. I'm maintaining a conservative look. But I can feel the music! It sounds much better than factory RF system, (sorry Guys)

Get the head unit out.
The tray above it pull straight up, Clips are on the sides, use a very small flat screwdriver. Best to start at FR side as you sit in vehicle.
Get that out, There is one screw in center just below it. Remove.
Now the whole center panel comes out. Just carefully pull straight back.
Undo all the wires because if ya let it hang a clip will scratch the dash at bottom.

Stereo is held in with 4 very visible screws. Brackets on stereo easily transfer to a new Double Din Unit and likewise probably a single din.
Speaker wires can be used for an aftermarket install saving you the hassle of running new ones, Use a battery to test the leads before you unhook old speakers. You can obtain aftermarket wire harness converter that keeps all factory plugs unharmed. The colors are different from radio end to speaker end so you have to test them out.

Door panels are all the same. Proceed as follows.
On either side of the handle that you pull on are small panels. These lift straight up and off. I used a sturdy putty knife, and a small flat driver.
At the handle (Latch) that you use to open the door, the chrome one, each side of that circular part pulls straight out, I used a small flat screwdriver. Once you have these 4 parts out, Also lift out and unplug power window panel. then you will see screws 10 mm or cross or flat takes them out.
Now use a putty knife and get under panel at bottom (In case you scratch no one sees it) put knife in and pull towards you to dislodge the clips, once you get em started you can do it by hand. Panel lifts directly up up up. Use no outward pressure. Your speakers are now exposed. 6X9 in front and an integrated 6.5 in the rear. Front is a direct replacement. I had to have an adapter plate to install the rear since it was some sort of wierdo factory deal. There is room in there for 6X9's also if someone wants to do some fab, it can be done. I just wired regular speaker leads into factory wires so as not to ruin the clip in case I return the system to factory. Install panels in reverse order. Actually pretty easy, but note that the clips are very strong, it almost feels like you are going to break them when you are taking them out. Be easy, use broad tools when you can. If you are chicken mask off where you pry.

I used the rear floor compartment for both amps. (barely fit) I can install a Fan but I am listening to my unit, not playing it for the people 9 cars over ....just 4. So Heat should not be an issue. If it is, I have a 12 V fan ready to cool things down. After testing I know no fan will be needed. I'm cool. Notice in Pic one slants, allows extra air circulation.

The sub is a custom box in RR area, Dealer said ok to use it, just leave room for air to pass to the area when heater is on recalculate it draws air through that panel. Let it breath. I maintain ability for the roller cover to be drawn over everything so when parked I can hide the sub. Some aftermarket Subs were available. But I did not like the location. You hardly notice it where it is at. It is also covered in Vinyl so as to keep with the Xterra theme,,,,, everything you need, nothing you don't. Mark said traditional speaker carpet looks tacky. Mark was right. It looks great!

After all this it's just a matter of run the wires hook them up and tune it all.
Manual points out don't connect directly to battery because Alt will not "Read" the load and thus not keep the Batt fully charged. They give you plenty of places at the Battery to hook pos after the fuse, do that and ground to nearby frame location.

My wires to rear amps are run from Bat, Back to firewall Over to Driver side and in at the boot behind and below brake reservoir. Then they follow the natural path of under the kick panels and carpet on the driver side to the rear cargo area. Speaker wires from amps were run on pass side to back of head unit.

All I had left over was 4 Speakers intact and a head unit. On the shelf!


photo1: Sub in Rear Vinyl finish, Sounds great! Notice cover still functions. No Cheap blk/gry carpet look, wipes clean.
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2059.jpg
photo2: This is a Panel that slides into Cd slot Hides Head unit.
easy to make with project box from RadioCrap. (shack)
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2061.jpg
photo3: These are the Amps, 1 1000 1 400 Head unit is 180 (on tap)
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2063.jpg
photo4: VA XC on face of head untt! Programable, Cool eh? Notice plays CD, Cassette, and has Aux in to play anything with a headphone jack!
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2064.jpg
photo5: Anothe head unit shot. I got this unit 80% off, I have 2.
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2065.jpg
photo6: Close of of anti theft cover, no see no steal. I hate theives!
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2067.jpg
photo7: Where I put my XM, The newer Roady is in the works, will fit better no wires showing.
http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2068.jpg
photo8: Key Mod, Anti Theft Key blocker. (Home made.)

Make your own, spray cap, clay type JB weld, spare key you get the idea. I left this at dealer and they called me to ask what to do to start it. LOL It freeks everyone out.

http://www.ssb5.net/users/15670/100_2069.jpg

Any questions fee free.

Happy Trails!
MC
_________________
If you want to be the second one on a new trail, follow me. I make my own.

Last edited by USMC XTERRA on Sun Nov 13, 2005 6:37 pm; edited 3 times in total

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Don't forget if you unhook the airbag light you will need a scan tool to remove the air bag code light.
 

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You do not need a scan tool...there is a simple procedure for resetting the airbag light, as posted on XOC:

1. Put key in. Turn the key to ON possition watch the airbag light turn on solid (not blinking).
2. As soon as it starts blinking turn key off within one second.
3. Take key out
4. Repeat steps 1 -3 three more times
5. On your fourth time turn the key and the light will go on and turn off , for good within a few seconds.

I usually start the truck on the fourth time, and the light goes away.
 
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