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Hello I'm hoping I can get some info about changing spark plugs for an 07 Xterra by myself. I recently had some issues with my 07 xterra where it would stall on me and idle rough and recently it started to lose some power as I drove around. I cleaned the throttle body well, made sure the MAF sensor looked good, had a computer hooked up to it and no other sensor issues, but still had the same problems. Finally took it to Firestone and had the fuel system cleaned and it's back to full power again no problem. However, they recommend that I get the spark plugs changed and I agreed, and asked them if they could use the plugs I had already bought since my uncle was supposed to show me how to do that anyways. They said they couldn't use supplies brought by the customer and said that parts and labor for this job would total $555.16 which I thought was outrageous, but I'm no mechanic so I'm not sure if that's justified or not. Anyways, since I was supposed to learn how to do this from my uncle anyways, I'm wondering if anyone knows how hard it actually is? From what I can tell I just need to pull the coil packs off and get the plugs out from under them with a socket wrench. I'm very inexperienced with working on vehicles but I do pick up on things quick. Thanks!
 

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2006 Off-road, ADO 2" HD lift, Grabbers
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Working on vehicles is all about confidence. You may lack the experience of preforming the task, but working on them is a step by step process. If you follow the steps, you will be fine and build confidence in yourself.
A few things I would still encourage you to do, but would be best for a more experienced person.
Timing components, engine rebuilding, head gaskets.

Otherwise, spark plugs are easy! How ever, #1 on these vq40 is a big PITA if you do not want to pull the intake manifold.
Get yourself a repair manual, or print out the steps from online, and follow them.
You will feel great about yourself, and understand that vehicles are easy.

On the note about Firestone not using your supplies. BS, go find a different shop. I am guessing prices should be around $300. Someone please correct me if that price is way off.
 

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I've had to repair other people's mistakes more than once and the fact is the cost of doing such would have been much less had they just paid me to do the work originally.

Swapping plugs is not brain surgery, and a mechanically inclined person can complete this service just fine.

However, busting a plug while removing it from the head, overtightening the plug into the head or cross threading the plug could cost a paycheck or two in repair cost. To be clear, the aluminum heads on a vq4.0 are not overly forgiving towards mistakes.

Your probably fine "If" you have a person with experience willing to teach you . Otherwise, I would suggest finding someone which will perform the labor for you.
 

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If you want to change the spark plugs and do the coil packs while in there at a minimum the ones under the intake then it is labor intensive. You need to remove several hoses and loose several brackets in order to remove the intake to access 2 of the 6 coils that sit on top of those 2 spark plugs. It is labor intensive, but with a little confidence and if you have someone elses eye to assist you should be very doable. I did it in an Oreilly parking lot because I didnt have a choice. 🤣 took me about a half hour past book time that the repair shops go by and that was with multiple trips in to buy tools I just didnt have with me. With the right tools shop time would have been left in the dust. Take your time and approach it slowly if you do it. The 4 spark plugs are clear of obstructions so do those first and then take a mental break if you need. Then start the intake removal when you are ready and take your time mentally taking notes where the bolts were removed from. I take off a few and if from right side I set them to the right and if from left side set to left side. If from rear of intake set to rear. It sounds silly, but it does help. Just keep them either in a magnetic tray or in a ziploc back you dont want to lose them. Once intake is removed put tape or rags in intake holes on motor to not drop debris and bolts down those holes. Blow off the engine so dirt is not going into spark plug sleeves before you remove the coils. Once blown off you can move to removing coil and then spark plugs. Remove replace and put coils back in. You are onto reassembly. Remove all tape or towels from intake holes on motor. Replace intake gasket being careful to seat it correctly and not pinch it. Slowly torque intake down and reattach hoses and tighten brackets and such that have been loosened. You should be out of bolts because you have replaced them in their respective slots and you are onto cleaning up tools washing hand and test driving. Congratulations if you take this on it is rewarding to do yourself, challenging, very satisfying when complete. You may now take the 300 plus dollars save and go buy some new toys.
 

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2006 Xterra S M6 and 2010 Xterra Off Road
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Look up Ry the Car Guy on Youtube. He has a good video series on there about Xterras.

That said, I'd have to agree with having someone with experience help you. There may be someone on here close to yout hat woudl be willing to guide. Cross thereading a plug or overtorquing and breaking something is valuable watch outs. Plug should thread in easy...be sure to have a spark plug socket(they have rubber inside of them to hold plug)

I pulled the plenum on mine. I have heard others say you can do it w/o doing that...but it was easy enough pulling the plenum. THe plenum wasn't bad....but I've rebuilt several engines in the past as well as learned from my dad and brother by about the age of 10. Easy to me may be scary to you. I'd suggest, if you pull plenum, to have a gasket set on hand to put back in. Should be cheap-ish.

Good luck
 

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Look up Ry the Car Guy on Youtube. He has a good video series on there about Xterras.

That said, I'd have to agree with having someone with experience help you. There may be someone on here close to yout hat woudl be willing to guide. Cross thereading a plug or overtorquing and breaking something is valuable watch outs. Plug should thread in easy...be sure to have a spark plug socket(they have rubber inside of them to hold plug)

I pulled the plenum on mine. I have heard others say you can do it w/o doing that...but it was easy enough pulling the plenum. THe plenum wasn't bad....but I've rebuilt several engines in the past as well as learned from my dad and brother by about the age of 10. Easy to me may be scary to you. I'd suggest, if you pull plenum, to have a gasket set on hand to put back in. Should be cheap-ish.

Good luck
This thing was 15 bucks, but works amazingly well over the rubber spark plug sockets that also work pretty well.
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i was stressed over replacing my plugs recently. last time they got swapped, i paid 182.50 for nissan to do it and they did NOT have to remove plenum. it took them 45 minutes. That was in 2010- yes i still own the xterra. still, i was nervous as it was time again this past winter. They were in there like 11 years so i thought i'd have issues. I didn't-mostly. Read below-


here is how i did it without removing anything besides the coils and plugs:
i already had most of the tools needed-

spark plug socket with magnet- that's important.
wobble extension kit from amazon- like 25$- that's important
3/8" ratchet
3/8" swivel- that's important
torque wrench- i think that's important
10mm small wrench

parts-
plugs- oem ngks
dialectic grease for boots of coil that fit over plug
new coils (the hard 1 made my decision to buy new ones easier as I really didn't want to ever have to repeat working on that one- at least not for another 10 years.

so here is what i did-

so..... I did this after thr truck sat 24 hours since i last drove it, so cold engine.

I did the drivers side 3 first starting with the one closest to the radiator and worked my way back towards firewall.

the 1st two came out easily and smooth. zero issues. the one closest to the firewall was very snug and after quite a few turns it started to come out easier. it was dirty. the threads. around the base of the ceramic. i put the new one in and it went in very smooth. thankfully. i will get back to this one in a minute. This side took me like 20 minutes.

i then did the passenger side and started to use compressed air before removing the plugs due to the one just mentioned being so dirty.. the rearmost one was first and it came out easy. it did have a little oil on the area around the base so it looks like i have the common valve cover leak. as long as it doesn't cause a misfire, i am ok with that for now.

the next one, middle pass side, came out smooth and was clean. i left it's coil off as that is needed in order to do the "hard" one under the intake.

the hard one- took me like 2 hours. the main issue there is the coil bolt is hard to get to. i used a 10mm wrench and jsut loosend a little at a time and was able to squeeze my hand from the front of the engine up into that area to sort of help things long. got the scratches to prove it. I did use my magnetic tool thingy to pull the bolt up through the intake opening so i wouldn't lose it once it was loose enough. Getting the coil out is fun. But i watched a video on how to do it and just remember, when you install coil, the top of it goes in first up under the intake into position- you install is coming from the left.

the plug was easy to remove and install with wobble extensions. i have no idea what these were before doing this and now i do. it's just an extension that has two stop points, one allowing you to create and angle as needed. this came in handy. i was able to torque that hard plug using the womble and between the two plastic sides/tubes of the intake. i remember 11 years ago when i checked the dealers work, that the torque was sort of hard to figure out due to coming under the intake and making s turns. Not any more.

once the pass side was done i decided i would go back, remove that dirty plug and try to suck out anything that fell in there. i made a sucker tool using my shop vac and some clear vynil hose i had laying around. stuck it down the hole and moved around some. didn't see or here anything but i prolly would not if it were small. put the plug back in and it went in smooth and torqued good at 18 ft lbs. like the first time i did that one and the rest.

started the truck in garage and ran for 15 minutes as i cleaned up some. no engine codes or lights.

so the plugs were not even close to be stuck in the head after 11 years- that one was dirty for some reason- maybe the coil wasn't sealed down right way back?


so that's it. I wrote a howto here i believe a while back too.

If you can change oil, you can do this. Just expect it to take a couple hours and have a good safe place to work.

I will say that i decided to replace the 6th plug coil as it was hard to get to but i decided to do this a few days after this job once i got the new part. i figured it has 150k miles on it and i'd rather replace it in my garage versus on the side of a road in the dark. I did end up punting and replacing all the coils. why not. The hard coil to get to took me 10 minutes to swap oout as I already developed a technique on getting it out.

There is 0 reason to remove any hoses or the intake UNLESS you want possible complications. I'd rather keep it simple and this job is IF you know the little tricks. There is a good video out there i watched. I think my howto has a link to it.

good luck!!
 

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i will also say i had none of my coils separate like in the video and they were on there for 11 years...
 

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i also did not use antisieze on plugs. don't do that. it will allow you to over torque. the ngks come with a coating that eliminates the need for antisize. their website even says this. i also didn't drop any plugs or the socket into the hole. I lowered in normally with it attached to the socket and then used the wobble......
 
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