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Hay guys,

I just got in a set of these new plugs that claim to increase MPG, 0-60MPH time and Torque. See the test results here. They will not void the warrantee and will not affect any of the trucks sensors or other parts in a bad way. Video clip with demos here...

Any way... I need to get to the plugs first before I can change them and the ones on the passengers side look inaccessible without removing the intake manifold collector. I have a cd-rom of the complete 2007 Nissan Xterra Factory Service Manual and this is what it says to do to remove that assembly and gain access to the spark plugs...

INTAKE MANIFOLD COLLECTOR
2007 Xterra
REMOVAL

1. Remove engine cover. Refer to EM-13, "REMOVAL".

2. Remove air cleaner case (upper) with mass air flow sensor and air duct assembly. Refer to EM-16, "REMOVAL".

Ok those were the easy steps and since I have the Volant CAI so I already have the "air cleaner case" removed and the Volant tube in its place. So here is where it starts to get complicated and wondering if all of these steps are really necessary to just change the friggin spark plugs...


3. Remove electric throttle control actuator as follows:

a. Drain engine coolant, or when water hoses are disconnected, attach plug to prevent engine coolant leakage.
Refer to CO-10, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT".
b. Disconnect water hoses from electric throttle control actuator.
When engine coolant is not drained from radiator, attach plug to water hoses to prevent engine coolant
leakage.
c. Disconnect harness connector.
d. Loosen bolts in reverse order as shown.

4. Remove the following parts:
-Vacuum hose (to brake booster)
-PCV hose

5. Loosen bolts in reverse order as shown to remove intake manifold
collector support.

6. Disconnect EVAP hoses and harness connector from EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.

7. Remove EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.

8. Remove VIAS control solenoid valve and vacuum tank.
-Add mating marks as necessary for easier installation.

9. Loosen nuts and bolts in reverse order as shown with power
tool, and remove intake manifold collector.
CAUTION:
Cover engine openings to avoid entry of foreign materials.

So has any body done all this and is it all necessary. I don’t see why I need to drain the engine coolant just to change the spark plugs... Well any advice and help is greatly appreciated. I don’t want to screw anything up and have changed plugs before but it seems like each new year they make it harder to access this stuff for us to do on our own...
 

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r the plugs on the inside of the engine? i honestly do not kno..... in my previous vehicles all i had to do was remove the front wheels and access the side of the engine through the wheel well... whenever u get these installed let us know what they are like...
 

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i think the standard plugs are recomended to be replaced at 100,000 mi and yeah i know thats a long time. but they are platnium tipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This mod is to gain better MPG, Torque and HP / Throttle Response.
 

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well... it looks like you printed the step by step for , as you put it; "INTAKE MANIFOLD COLLECTOR
2007 Xterra
REMOVAL

the spark plugs are under neath the coil packs on the valve covers right there and easy to get to. my version of how to:
lefty loosey/righty tighty.
 

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those sure are expensive, let us know how they work.
 

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thats what i thought just too cold out to go look at my engine. Mike100 is correct. there are coil packs. but u might have to remove the top of the intake manifold to get to the plugs on the passenger side... not sure...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, the factory manual tells me in order to change the spark pulgs to first remove the intake manifold collector. They are not accessable on the passengers side from what I can see without removing this assembly, unless that is if one of you guys knows a trick around this... Thats the reason behind this posting... I hope one of us has changed spark pulgs and knows what had to be done.
 

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Its probably the same as all the other VQ engines and I have worked on three others. Not much of a way around it. It isnt that hard and at least we have a truck and can see what we are doing, the 02+ altimas are a pain for the rear 3.
 

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Holy balls! 25 bucks each?! Id really be interested to know after you install them if they really do give you some gains in mpg...............And dont go bullshitting us! Be honest, if they dont end up doing anything, man up and dont just lie about it telling us that you "seat dyno" tells you they work.
 

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xterra owner said:
Yes, the factory manual tells me in order to change the spark pulgs to first remove the intake manifold collector. They are not accessable on the passengers side from what I can see without removing this assembly, unless that is if one of you guys knows a trick around this... Thats the reason behind this posting... I hope one of us has changed spark pulgs and knows what had to be done.
Where's Jason* when you need him?! We need to have like a special 'Bat-Light' just for the MuzikMan to shed some answers on us poor ignorant bastards whenever we need him!!!

*EDIT (Thanks MC)
 

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im also interested in these plugs. ive seen them in the back of magazines and figured that they were just a gimmick. i would like to know the benefits after the install if you wouldnt mind too.
 

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TXterra37 said:
How many plugs does the X use, I'm guessing 2?
two???? actually it needs one for each compression chamber. it need to if u want to only replace 2 lol. but if u want to replace all of the spark plugs then its definately 6.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
nexus_7 said:
Its probably the same as all the other VQ engines and I have worked on three others. Not much of a way around it. It isnt that hard and at least we have a truck and can see what we are doing, the 02+ altimas are a pain for the rear 3.
So do I need to drain the all the engine coolant or can I just clamp the hose instead and have a towel ready to catch the drips?

Do I need to do anything "special" when removing or reattaching any of these hoses or just to mark where they go before disconnecting them then reattach when done?

Are any of the other hoses going to have liquid in them other than the coolant line?

As to weather or not they work I will let you guys know for sure! I wouldn’t tell you they work if they didn’t. I would send them back (30 Money Back Guarantee) and tell you all that they were crap. I can’t say I'll go and get the truck dyno tested after the install but if they do what they claim then I'll have some solid MPG numbers and a good idea in the "feel" of the torque & HP / throttle response vs the regular plugs I’ve been driving around on.

I have this upcoming SUN, MON & part of TUE off so I guess that’s when I'll try to tackle this project. Hope I can get some good tips before then from anyone else who knows about this topic.

Thanks guys…
 
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