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Discussion Starter #1
WARNING: Picture heavy post - I am fortunate to have Google Fiber, but everyone else might have to wait for all of the pictures to load.

I took a gamble and purchased a light bar from Soye through Alibaba. It was my first time buying direct from China but it turned out well. The item shipped a week later, and arrived in 3 days through DHL.

I prefer the single row look of the light bars, and wanted the 10W LEDs. The bar looks pretty slick and low profile in front of the air dam.




I designed the mounts in SolidWorks and had them made for a bargain by GK Machine in Bend, OR. They do laser cutting, bending, shearing, and powder coating, with unbeatable prices. I've been using them for years, even with shipping, they are 1/3 the cost of local shops.




I bought an OTRATTW switch and mounted it next to the mirror controls







I ran the wiring down to the driver's side footwell




The light uses an external LED driver which I mounted in the driver's side footwell and ran up the wiring through the driver's side A-pillar.



I used a cable gland on the roof to pass the wiring through.




I will be the first to admit that I should have measured twice and drilled once. But my lack of foresight forced me to do this.



I did have to cut off the connectors to pass the cable through the roof. The Chinese connectors are exact replicas of these, (AMP Superseal 1.5, made by TE Connectivity)

I overcame the whistling at speed on the highway with some 3/4" adhesive-backed foam, and stuffed it under the light bar where it's closest to the roofline. Fortunately, I was able to stick it to the plastic of the air dam, avoiding any sheetmetal.

OK, know that we've gone through all that:

These pictures were taken at dusk in with my Canon Rebel in Manual mode. I adjusted the shutter speed with the lowest aperture setting my lens would allow. Unfortunately, this is at the mouth of a canyon, and the wind was blowing pretty well, my poor tripod couldn't keep the camera perfectly still, so they are slightly out of focus.

Light metered to low beams:




Light metered to LED light bar:




Looking from the taillights:



Other shots:







 

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Well done thread ... folks could take some notes on how to do a write-up. Thanks for taking the time to do it!

... and cool lightbar. I'm also a fan of the single row, a bit more than the doubles. Pretty good light output there, eh?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Spdu4ia,
I keep my hood dirty, and it works well. The biggest issue is actually the dust particles in the air. The light bar has 32 10W LEDs, and Soye claims 28,339.2 lumens, which I think is very optimistic. However, so much of the foreground is lit due to the intensity, that the light further out pales in comparison. When I get my Hefty bumper, I'll probably add two 7" HID spots, or those new VisionX LED Light Cannon spots (I'll need approval from the wife for those!). I'll fill out the corners with LED dually fogs, or 4" versions of the Soye's. Since I'm locked in at 6000K on the LED light bar, I'm seriously tempted to go for heuss33's Memorial Day sale and buy the HID retrofit for my headlights.

mtnbiker,
The specific model I bought is the BSPL40BH. It is also available through AliExpress here, but you'll get robbed on the shipping. There was a guy in California selling these under a different name, but he went Rigid only about a month-and-a-half ago. BSPL is the series, 40 is the nominal length, and BH stands for the Basic version of the LED driver. They also offer an adjustable version that varies the light output. A review of the 26" version found here, describes the functionality of the adjustable LED driver, though he states it is kind of a hassle. I do have a current price list from them, but be advised that the bar alone costs what N.Y.X can get a Totron to you shipped, and shipping from Hong Kong cost me about $65. Still, it was a smoking deal for the looks, functionality, and brightness.
 

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Very nice, clean install and write-up.
Great job!

This photo:



If you could highlight the roof line (i.e. make it identifiable as an Xterra) would be a shoe-in for TOTM. It's AWESOME.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I replaced my original LED mounts with new ones last week. The primary motivator was to raise the light bar 1" higher to reduce the whistling between the air dam and the light bar. Other design changes included a 5 degree rotation on the slot to allow the bar to sit in the middle of the slot when mounted to the Xterra due to the incline of the roof. I also moved to 1/8" steel, moved the mounting locations, and used a single piece for each side. The vibrations on the bar with the old mount style were pretty visible at night since the moment arm on the mounts wasn't very large and the gaps under the mounts in the front allowed for a lot of play. The new design is much more rigid and holds the light bar much more securely.

I accomplished all of my design requirements with the new mounts, NO MORE WHISTLING, and no weatherstripping anywhere.









 

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Discussion Starter #15
jschmidt-
Are you referring to my first design? With two pieces per mount? When bolted together, the mount was fairly sturdy, but I used two mounting holes with very little fore-aft separation, and the dip in the roof rack led to a cantilevered mount, with no support underneath. The new design is a lot more obtrusive visually, but is more solid.

thecoalition -
Last week I was driving out of a canyon late at night. There were cows grazing up to and onto the road. The light bar tripled my forward visibility. It was raining and my hood was a little dirty but the glare did not cause any eye strain. I do plan on getting a hood blackout at some point, but the black paint doesn't make it nearly as bad as other paint colors.
 

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what illumination wire did you tap into? I am putting a switch in the same spot, however, I want to tap into the mirror adjustment switch's illumination wire. Just do not know what the color of the wire may be.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
jlelli,
I used a fuse tap in the engine compartment fuse box and brought the wire into the cabin through a grommet on the drivers side along with the mains power for the light bar. I didn't tap any illumination wires in the dash, sorry.
 
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