I'd say if you have the means and the know how, go for it. I believe the majority of us who go with Shrock do so because of the quality and durability of Jim's products and know that he stands by his work. Also, his products are made specifically for our vehicles, and bolt into existing holes where possible. If you do go the route, make sure to do a "how to".
Slider Fab Option?? Should I try it??
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fabbing them up is super easy! i did mine, and all it costed me was about 80 bucks worth of steel.... i hi-lift it up one side and no peoblems.
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I just welded mine to the frame...no bigie tome that its welded on.
I just welded mine to the frame...no bigie tome that its welded on.
6
Well we started. Enjoy!!
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Lined the sliders up against the X, to get an idea how we want them to fit. Used 3 jackstands. The only problem with jackstands, is that the don't allow for infinite adjustment, every click up or down, could be more or less than you wanted. I opened the door frequently, to find out how close we were to the body lines. I put a level in the doorjamb, and matched the angle to the slider. My X isn't perfectly level, and neither is my garage floor. Fun and games.
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This is the front mount being held up against the frame with a small bottle jack. (The orange in the pic, is from my heater)
I put the first of the three mounts about an inch behind the body mount, so that I could weld a bead on that side. The bottle jack is there because the factory jack point is underneath the "L", which I will cut off once the braces are all welded up, and there is no clearance behind it for a c-clamp. I don't want to have to have HiLift with me to change a tire and would like to be able to use the factory jack. I had to watch this mount, because between crawling in and out while measuring and tacking these things up, it worked it way loose.
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Center mount, with a tack. We tacked the center first, so we could pull the front or back, in or out and be able to pivot.
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Another shot of the center support. This is the support that really counts in fitting up. Through trial and error, we found it best to pull the slider off to cut the other 2 legs by putting the other 2 next to the center mount to match length. We clamped them in the tripod and matched the outside legs angles to the center with a level.
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This is the back mount, c-clamped waiting for it's brace.
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At this point, we used just the center jackstand. Clamped that center plate to the frame, and used the level to line up the other 2 braces to their plates. Had to check the door sill many times to make sure it was at the same line as the slider. Lots of opening and closing of doors to be sure the braces were the right length, and that it fit right. Hint, if you do this, and you are the guy underneath the truck tacking the braces, before your buddies say its perfect and slam the rear door, make sure your knee is out of the way. Or you'll be pissed off that your limping the next day. Won't let that happen again :compress:
Finish-welding the braces and adding gussets. Burnt through all my wire, and need to get more.
I will try to get the other side tacked up Thursday. And then prepped and covered with TuffCoat.
Lined the sliders up against the X, to get an idea how we want them to fit. Used 3 jackstands. The only problem with jackstands, is that the don't allow for infinite adjustment, every click up or down, could be more or less than you wanted. I opened the door frequently, to find out how close we were to the body lines. I put a level in the doorjamb, and matched the angle to the slider. My X isn't perfectly level, and neither is my garage floor. Fun and games.
This is the front mount being held up against the frame with a small bottle jack. (The orange in the pic, is from my heater)
I put the first of the three mounts about an inch behind the body mount, so that I could weld a bead on that side. The bottle jack is there because the factory jack point is underneath the "L", which I will cut off once the braces are all welded up, and there is no clearance behind it for a c-clamp. I don't want to have to have HiLift with me to change a tire and would like to be able to use the factory jack. I had to watch this mount, because between crawling in and out while measuring and tacking these things up, it worked it way loose.
Center mount, with a tack. We tacked the center first, so we could pull the front or back, in or out and be able to pivot.
Another shot of the center support. This is the support that really counts in fitting up. Through trial and error, we found it best to pull the slider off to cut the other 2 legs by putting the other 2 next to the center mount to match length. We clamped them in the tripod and matched the outside legs angles to the center with a level.
This is the back mount, c-clamped waiting for it's brace.
At this point, we used just the center jackstand. Clamped that center plate to the frame, and used the level to line up the other 2 braces to their plates. Had to check the door sill many times to make sure it was at the same line as the slider. Lots of opening and closing of doors to be sure the braces were the right length, and that it fit right. Hint, if you do this, and you are the guy underneath the truck tacking the braces, before your buddies say its perfect and slam the rear door, make sure your knee is out of the way. Or you'll be pissed off that your limping the next day. Won't let that happen again :compress:
Finish-welding the braces and adding gussets. Burnt through all my wire, and need to get more.
I will try to get the other side tacked up Thursday. And then prepped and covered with TuffCoat.
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