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I just wanted to share my experience of doing this myself because I have seen many people took the "goo gone" route and wasted their whole afternoon.
A simple process is to take a 130lb fishing line (clear plastic-type) put on some nice leather gloves to protect your hands and wrap the line around your hands. Get the line between the plastic door trim and the door itself and stand parallel with your vehicle. Use a sawing motion as you pull the line towards you to cut through the two strips of glue. You will notice a large increase in resistance in two spots on the driver and passenger front door. There are small plastic knobs that insert into your metal door panel (the purpose of the heavy pound line is the sawing motion will cut through this. Saw at a steady pace but not fast enough to heat up and "smoke" the glue or plastic (paint doesn't like heat).

Once the plastic is off use an eraser wheel attached to a normal house drill and eraser wheel it off. Start to finish should take around 20-30 mins.

Eraser wheels have a max rpm recommended because they will heat up at high speeds and can damage the paint if you're an absolute madman and don't slow down when you see the eraser smoking

Before you get all nervous saying, "No way I can't damage the paint, too risky" Reference the orbital buffer and the same concept applies. This method is safer and easier than using a heat gun and elbow grease.

I still have not found a smart way to "plug" the two holes in the front doors although there is a drain I plan to either plug them tomorrow or have it be filled, bondo'd, and painted.
 

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I just wanted to share my experience of doing this myself because I have seen many people took the "goo gone" route and wasted their whole afternoon.
A simple process is to take a 130lb fishing line (clear plastic-type) put on some nice leather gloves to protect your hands and wrap the line around your hands. Get the line between the plastic door trim and the door itself and stand parallel with your vehicle. Use a sawing motion as you pull the line towards you to cut through the two strips of glue. You will notice a large increase in resistance in two spots on the driver and passenger front door. There are small plastic knobs that insert into your metal door panel (the purpose of the heavy pound line is the sawing motion will cut through this. Saw at a steady pace but not fast enough to heat up and "smoke" the glue or plastic (paint doesn't like heat).

Once the plastic is off use an eraser wheel attached to a normal house drill and eraser wheel it off. Start to finish should take around 20-30 mins.

Eraser wheels have a max rpm recommended because they will heat up at high speeds and can damage the paint if you're an absolute madman and don't slow down when you see the eraser smoking

Before you get all nervous saying, "No way I can't damage the paint, too risky" Reference the orbital buffer and the same concept applies. This method is safer and easier than using a heat gun and elbow grease.

I still have not found a smart way to "plug" the two holes in the front doors although there is a drain I plan to either plug them tomorrow or have it be filled, bondo'd, and painted.
I did this to my 2013 way back when and just painted some plastic plugs I found online. They all but disappear and it cleans up the look of the X in my opinion.
 

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I did this to my 2013 way back when and just painted some plastic plugs I found online. They all but disappear and it cleans up the look of the X in my opinion.
I took off my side plastic pieces and was shocked to find 2 holes! They are more oval then circular. What plugs did you find that fit? I have tried a few over the last few weeks but none seem like they would keep water/dust out. Any suggestions on what to do with the holes?
 

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I took off my side plastic pieces and was shocked to find 2 holes! They are more oval then circular. What plugs did you find that fit? I have tried a few over the last few weeks but none seem like they would keep water/dust out. Any suggestions on what to do with the holes?
Been so long I couldn't point you in an exact direction. They look to be about a 3/4" flat head and a 3/8" or 1/2" shank (Think plastic carriage bolt). I used a bit of silicone on the back before I pushed them in the holes. They were some random trim fasteners I found on Amazon.

I used several random shades of rattle-can white in light coats till it matched the factory paint. They've been hanging tough ever since.
 
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