Service Engine Soon Light
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I did some digging when my light popped up too, but I dont think its triggered by milage. Mine was a MAF sensor warning. Removed, Cleaned and replaced it...so far so good.
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It's tripped for a reason, not just mileage. The SES light will go away once the problem is fixed. In some cases it needs to be cleared with a scan tool, but they go away on their own for the most part.Hey Guys, I’ve done a forum search on the topic and read loads of good info! I’ll do a scan and go from there.
Question: The X has almost 100K miles, would this cause the SES light and how to reset? Thnx again!
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I remember Datsuns and early Nissans had a "Sensor" light on the dash that would light up at specific mileages. I believe the B11 Sentras has a module with a reset button one would push to turn off the lamp and then after 100K miles or so, one would unplug it. Other models had harness connectors one would disconnect a certain miles to turn off the lamp. "Sensor" referred to the oxygen sensor. IIRC, Datsun (Nissan) would recommend replacing the oxygen sensor every 30K miles. Times have changed!
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Yes once the condition that caused the code to be set is resolved the computer will clear the code after several cycles. I don't remember how many times the computer has to have the green light (no code conditions) but I want to say after about 6 start and runs the SE light will go off if their is no issues.They go away on their own?
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155 Posts
Yes, scanner said MAF sensor. Code P0101
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155 Posts
P0101
Mine had that code and it was just from the airbox lid not being all the way installed under the tab. I would pull the lid and check all ducts and boots for cracks, hose clamps and airbox lid and filter. If there are any air leaks it will throw a code.
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155 Posts
Yeah I’ll do some checking before buying a MAF sensor. At 98K miles, I wonder if it’s time to replace anyway, read these sensors are problematic. I guess 22680-7S00A is the updated sensor. And a huge difference in price between OEM and aftermarket. Is there an aftermarket brand that’s good, comparable to OEM? Thnx!
Also I noticed Nissan MAF NOS (22680-7S00) for much less, I assume that’s what’s in the truck now. Any bad experiences using the old stock?
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1,210 Posts
Our MAFs aren’t problematic. Just clean it using MAF sensor cleaner and reinstall.
You can try cleaning the MAF, and resintalling it. Incredibly easy, 2 screws and a clip. But take a close look at the air box because I found the airbox wasnt seated properly when the dealer installed a new air filter. MAF cleaner is like 10$. If that doesnt work, a new MAF sensor...and if that doesnt work you can inspect the intake for leaks and just start duct taping the whole thing (kidding).
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155 Posts
Ok I’ll clean the MAF sensor before ordering an Hitachi replacement. …but please explain your clean process, good to know. Thnx zanethan!
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155 Posts
It worked (for now : ), SES light is off!
I followed video recommendations and also sprayed connector cleaner and disconnected the neg. battery cable to reset the ECU. She runs great.
…had I taken it to the dealer, they would’ve replaced the sensor and charged $500.
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113 Posts
Glad that's all it was. Good deal.
You got some good info here. I'll only add a few things. Mileage has nothing to do with when the money light comes on. That said, usually things start wearing out on modern vehicles (Depending on brand and model) from between 50k- 120k. Whenever a component fails that will cause the vehicle to "pollute" more than 1.5x what it did from the factory, the light will come on. Parts are so hit-or-miss today - sometimes you'll get a component that doesn't even make it out of warranty, failing long before the 40k mile mark. Other times, they'll go 180k. There's no rhyme or reason, other than I suspect quality control is an afterthought today.
Normally a relearn isn't needed for a MAF. You'd need to do an idle relearn procedure after cleaning the throttle body, replacing an idle air control valve, or throttle position sensor.
Also keep in mind that the monitor for the MAF has to run before the light will come back on if there is still a fault present. Depending on the type of driving you do, this can take up to 2 weeks in some extreme cases after clearing a code or disconnecting the battery. Other times just an hour of driving is all that's needed. In other words, you could still have a bad MAF or a MAF wiring issue, but you won't know until the monitor runs. With a scan tool in generic OBD-II, look for readiness monitors, and see how many are INC, or incomplete.
You got some good info here. I'll only add a few things. Mileage has nothing to do with when the money light comes on. That said, usually things start wearing out on modern vehicles (Depending on brand and model) from between 50k- 120k. Whenever a component fails that will cause the vehicle to "pollute" more than 1.5x what it did from the factory, the light will come on. Parts are so hit-or-miss today - sometimes you'll get a component that doesn't even make it out of warranty, failing long before the 40k mile mark. Other times, they'll go 180k. There's no rhyme or reason, other than I suspect quality control is an afterthought today.
Normally a relearn isn't needed for a MAF. You'd need to do an idle relearn procedure after cleaning the throttle body, replacing an idle air control valve, or throttle position sensor.
Also keep in mind that the monitor for the MAF has to run before the light will come back on if there is still a fault present. Depending on the type of driving you do, this can take up to 2 weeks in some extreme cases after clearing a code or disconnecting the battery. Other times just an hour of driving is all that's needed. In other words, you could still have a bad MAF or a MAF wiring issue, but you won't know until the monitor runs. With a scan tool in generic OBD-II, look for readiness monitors, and see how many are INC, or incomplete.
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