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I got my updated Scan Gauge back last week, and was able to try it out over the weekend. I have an '06, so it reads a little slow, but James told me that it would. At startup, nothing displayed. About 30 seconds or so, both AT1s came on, and about another 30 seconds or so, I started see both AT2s. They update quick enough for me. It's not instant, but I'm more than happy to see the temps versus not seeing them at all.

I paid $25 for the update (including programming the X Gauges and shipping it back to me via priority mail), and it was well worth it (I was on Version 3.17).
 

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I'm using the v4.50 firmware on a 2013. Same AT1/AT2 behavior, small wait for initial readings after power-up.

p.s. Interesting how AT1/AT2 will be between 120F and 130F when cruising at a constant 60 mph on a flat freeway (120F wouldn't burn your fingers) but then can jump 30F when driving over hills and on surface streets.
 

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Received my gauge back after sending in for reprogram. It's nice have those AT temps. I haven't started up there truck yet to see how long they take to load, but it's not a huge concern of mine.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

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Received my gauge back after sending in for reprogram. It's nice have those AT temps. I haven't started up there truck yet to see how long they take to load, but it's not a huge concern of mine.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
I don't worry about it either. First thing in the morning it'll show last night's value for a few seconds, then it shows cold, and it takes a few minutes to warm up to operating temp anyway. A few seconds display update is just not something worth worrying about. I really appreciate having it since I'm eyeing a new radiator and hoses along with the timing chain job.

Mine runs hotter than you @retrograde, 140-180 depending on smooth vs traffic jam. The local climate here could play a small part... :nerd:
 

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I can't say enough good things about Linear Logic, the company that makes the Scan Gauge 2. Their ongoing product support is simply stellar. Lots of companies have good products but VERY few have product support to match LL. And they have a great product to boot! You can't go wrong! I will keep an eye out for products made/supported by this company.
Thank you Linear Logic.

Don
 

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If you could, try setting the update rate to 'FAST' and set all 4 gauges on the gauge screen to AT1. That should provide the highest number of send/receive attempts. See if any of them populate with a value after a few minutes of driving. Also, could you check to see if standard gauges like RPM or MPH stop updating (or update sporadically) when AT1 or AT2 is on the screen? I would suspect they would, as that's what I saw on 1Kolohe_boi's XTerra.

Also, if you could, send the results from performing the above to me at [email protected]. If AT1/AT2 never populate with a value after going through the above setup I'd like to set up a ScanGauge exactly as the one that's working for 1Kolohe_boi's XTerra and send it out to you. We know that setup is working, so it's worth a shot recreating it on your XTerra in case there's something I'm not taking into account.
Yea, I can do that. I’ll find some time this weekend and send you the results.
Hey guys, any update on this? I am very interested in getting my '06 working with the AT temps and it's great to see that it's working on the newest version.

I emailed James with a couple questions, and am ready to send mine in for an upgrade to 4.5, or whatever is going to work best to get the AT temps. Thanks.
 

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I don't worry about it either. First thing in the morning it'll show last night's value for a few seconds, then it shows cold, and it takes a few minutes to warm up to operating temp anyway. A few seconds display update is just not something worth worrying about. I really appreciate having it since I'm eyeing a new radiator and hoses along with the timing chain job.

Mine runs hotter than you @retrograde, 140-180 depending on smooth vs traffic jam. The local climate here could play a small part... :nerd:
I have been monitoring my temp for a while now. It seems to depend strongly on ambient temperature. In the winter (30F to 40F) I managed to stay below 135F. Now temps are climbing.

Red
 

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One question for those that upgraded and are using this on 4.5... did you enter the XGauge as described here, or was there anything else you have had to do to get it working?
https://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/nissan-infiniti/

I sent my SGII in and got it updated to v4.5. I have not tried it out yet but did receive it last night. Quick turn around time and excellent customer service as usual from Linear Logic. Looking forward to trying it out soon.
 

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One question for those that upgraded and are using this on 4.5... did you enter the XGauge as described here, or was there anything else you have had to do to get it working?
https://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/nissan-infiniti/

I sent my SGII in and got it updated to v4.5. I have not tried it out yet but did receive it last night. Quick turn around time and excellent customer service as usual from Linear Logic. Looking forward to trying it out soon.
Yes. It is really simple once you figure out how to enter numbers and what not.

Red
 

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I have been using my updated Scangauge for a couple of weeks and it's been great. I have it in one of my Xterras that I already had a trans temp gauge in the dash going to a sensor on the test port. (I will be selling that X) The test port temp is usually 2-5 degrees different than AT1 and AT2 but most closely follows AT2. Does anyone know the difference between AT1 & AT2 and which is best if you only want to display 1 of them. It seems to end up pretty close the same after awhile but do vary some. Also what does most everyone find their water temp runs, while driving around town mine averages 195. In my old X I have the radiator bypassed and the trans temp run ~160 around town. When I put the scangauge in my X with a new radiator and NO bypass the trans temp runs ~180. Make me wonder if the water temp more often makes the trans temp hotter than cooler. I have yet to see what happens during slow offroad hill climbs.

In my old X I would see the trans temp climb up to the 220's at times and I have a extra cooler and a 9" fan to help. I even ran that temp at freeway speeds last summer going through AZ when it showed 124 degrees out. (how can you people live there?)

My Scangauge behavior is just as others have described, 20 second or so to get readings and other gauges are slower to update, like every 10 seconds or so. Noe of which bothers me as I am not using anything that realtime matters like RPM, MPH.

Lastly, I would be interested in seeing/hearing where everyone mounts theirs. Of course it seems the direction of the connections to the OBD port and the end connector are pointing the wrong way/wrong end for the sleekist setup with the least cable management.
 

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I live in AZ and the temperature now is in the low 100’s I’m xterra coolant temps currently run at about 195 also. If my understanding is correct, I believe at1 is trans pan temp and at2 is temp on line out to cooler- someone help me out here... as for mounting location, I have mine temporarily mounted right under my radio. No velcro or anything, just routed wires behind panel to clean it up. Will find a better spot when I get a double din stereo...
 

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Does anyone know the difference between AT1 & AT2 and which is best if you only want to display 1 of them...

Lastly, I would be interested in seeing/hearing where everyone mounts theirs. Of course it seems the direction of the connections to the OBD port and the end connector are pointing the wrong way/wrong end for the sleekist setup with the least cable management.
Earlier in this thread, see these posts for answers to your first question:
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/3804954-post69.html
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/3428897-post46.html

Regarding mounting, I have mine in a similar spot as 1Kolohe_boi but velcroed in place. I'll try to get a picture up here in a bit.
 

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I have mine attached to the rear view mirror with the mount from SG. I had to get a short cable extension to reach the OBD port.

As for temps, I'm running a 350Z t-stat, so my water temp stays in the low 180's. Once fully warmed up, my trans temps have been staying about 30 degs cooler. However, I haven't been off-road or in the hills since getting the SG updated, so I'm not sure what those temps will be like.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

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A quick question... whenI am monitoring my trans temp with the scanguage which data field should I be primarily concerned with? AT1 or AT2? My AT2 measure rises rapidly and falls rapidly as well. AT2 has risen as high as 250 briefly during hill climbs while AT1 stays under 190 during these incidents.


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As for temps, I'm running a 350Z t-stat
Gentlemen

Before everyone decides to run out and purchase 350Z thermostats, let me address a minor detail.
First, there are 350Z thermostats designed to open at 170 and 180deg.
However, the idea that a 170deg thermostat will allow your SUV to run cooler than a 180deg thermostat is somewhat false.

Basically, the efficiency of your cooling system combined with the ambient temperature and engine load determines your engine temperature once your thermostat is open. The only difference is a 170deg thermostat will open at 170deg and allow your cooling system to start functioning rather than at 180deg. Generally speaking, a thermostat effects the lowest temperature at which your cooling system begins functioning, not the highest unless the thermostat is failing. Once your engine is fully warmed up, your thermostat will be in an open position regardless of what temperature it may have started to open. When you realize our engine coolant is likely over 190F at normal operating temps, you may understand there is basically no difference in the overall cooling ability of a 170 vs 180 deg thermostat. In other words,there is only a few brief minutes in which a 170deg thermostat will allow your cooling system to operate cooler than a 180deg thermostat as your engine temps will continue to climb the 10deg difference which will open the 180deg thermostat.

Next question, Ok, so why would my cooling system run cooler now with a 170deg thermostat than when I had a 180?
I suspect the older 180deg thermostats spring was failing and not functioning properly. This was limiting the thermostat from opening properly which in turn limited water flow through your cooling system in the form of a restriction. For this reason your cooling system would have run hotter .
 

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Gentlemen

Before everyone decides to run out and purchase 350Z thermostats, let me address a minor detail.
First, there are 350Z thermostats designed to open at 170 and 180deg.
However, the idea that a 170deg thermostat will allow your SUV to run cooler than a 180deg thermostat is somewhat false.

Basically, the efficiency of your cooling system combined with the ambient temperature and engine load determines your engine temperature once your thermostat is open. The only difference is a 170deg thermostat will open at 170deg and allow your cooling system to start functioning rather than at 180deg. Generally speaking, a thermostat effects the lowest temperature at which your cooling system begins functioning, not the highest unless the thermostat is failing. Once your engine is fully warmed up, your thermostat will be in an open position regardless of what temperature it may have started to open. When you realize our engine coolant is likely over 190F at normal operating temps, you may understand there is basically no difference in the overall cooling ability of a 170 vs 180 deg thermostat. In other words,there is only a few brief minutes in which a 170deg thermostat will allow your cooling system to operate cooler than a 180deg thermostat as your engine temps will continue to climb the 10deg difference which will open the 180deg thermostat.

Next question, Ok, so why would my cooling system run cooler now with a 170deg thermostat than when I had a 180?
I suspect the older 180deg thermostats spring was failing and not functioning properly. This was limiting the thermostat from opening properly which in turn limited water flow through your cooling system in the form of a restriction. For this reason your cooling system would have run hotter .
I understand the concept behind the t-stats. Thanks. :eek:ccasion5: I'm not sure why there's a huge divide over this swap. Some people swear by it, some people swear it's the worst thing you can do. If you dig through this forum and the Frontier forums, several people have done this, whether their stock t-stat was failing or not, and all with the same results. Some people have gone with the Nismo t-stat, which opens at an even lower temp than the stock 350Z t-stat. I replaced mine with about 10K miles on the truck, I guarantee the OEM t-stat wasn't failing. I live in the desert and my temps are always consistently lower than with the stock t-stat. When I had my Frontier, the normal operating temps were in the low 180s and when I purchased my Xterra, I noticed the temps would always be in the low 190s. I suspect this was one of the things that Nissan did to try to improve the MPG in later model VQ40s. However, I haven't noticed any difference in MPGs since changing it out, but I have noticed better temps when offroading and in low speed situations. During a trip last year, we went through a trail that was very slow going. The X's on the trip saw temps in the 220s and one person needed to run his heater every so often or just plain turn off the truck. I never broke boiling, so this was proof enough to me that the mod was worth it.
 

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I understand the concept behind the t-stats. Thanks. :eek:ccasion5: I'm not sure why there's a huge divide over this swap. Some people swear by it, some people swear it's the worst thing you can do. If you dig through this forum and the Frontier forums, several people have done this, whether their stock t-stat was failing or not, and all with the same results. Some people have gone with the Nismo t-stat, which opens at an even lower temp than the stock 350Z t-stat. I replaced mine with about 10K miles on the truck, I guarantee the OEM t-stat wasn't failing. I live in the desert and my temps are always consistently lower than with the stock t-stat. When I had my Frontier, the normal operating temps were in the low 180s and when I purchased my Xterra, I noticed the temps would always be in the low 190s. I suspect this was one of the things that Nissan did to try to improve the MPG in later model VQ40s. However, I haven't noticed any difference in MPGs since changing it out, but I have noticed better temps when offroading and in low speed situations. During a trip last year, we went through a trail that was very slow going. The X's on the trip saw temps in the 220s and one person needed to run his heater every so often or just plain turn off the truck. I never broke boiling, so this was proof enough to me that the mod was worth it.
Which temp measure is the t-stat triggered by, pan or post torque converter?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


Edit: nevermind my fatigued brain answered by own dumb question :)
 

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Rikrong,

When you changed your thermostat, did you keep the original antifreeze or did you drain and fill with something different?
 
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