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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After problem after problem with rear shock mounts and spending way to much money on worthless mounts, I've decided that my best option is to run shocks into the cargo area. I'm just going to make shock hoops and then cap them off with plate steel boxes that bolt on, that way the shocks are not exposed. The cargo area will still be fully functional, I'm going to figure out how to make them as "out of the way" as possible.

I've seen photo's on here somewhere of a truck with shocks through the cargo area but I can't seem to find them. Can someone point me in the direction of those photos before I start planning how I'm going to do this? If so that'd be awesome!
 

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instead of going through the body, have you considered shock hoops in the wheelwells?



i originally looked at something simular to this part from solomotorsports. depending on shock selected, you'd have to clearance the frame and reinforce it again, not a big deal really.

T
 

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After problem after problem with rear shock mounts and spending way to much money on worthless mounts, I've decided that my best option is to run shocks into the cargo area. I'm just going to make shock hoops and then cap them off with plate steel boxes that bolt on, that way the shocks are not exposed. The cargo area will still be fully functional, I'm going to figure out how to make them as "out of the way" as possible.

I've seen photo's on here somewhere of a truck with shocks through the cargo area but I can't seem to find them. Can someone point me in the direction of those photos before I start planning how I'm going to do this? If so that'd be awesome!
Can you explain your issues that your having with your shock mounts etc, cause with our vehicles with at most a 4" leaf pack i cant see the added benefit of doing this mod. While I love the idea, i just dont understand why your needing it or what makes it practical with your current set up.
 

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with the correct lower mount placement and a 12" stroke shock that should be all he needs. our rigs cant utilize much more than a 14" shocks, and the gains from 12" to 14" stroke can be regulated by shock angle and valving. just my thoughts.

t
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have considered running them in the wheel wells, I just have a few concerns about a setup like that. I have a buddy who does custom work on mainly Toyotas, and I've seen him do shock hoops in the wheel wells like that several times, and it seems like at full stuff the tire would be extremely close to coming into contact with the shock.. I'm running 33's not but plan on going to 35's which would make it that much closer to rubbing against it. Although, that might not be a huge deal if it's only very minor. I'll have to get some measurements because I know it could easily be done with how much room is in there underneath our rear fenders.

Truffles, given that my Timbren's give away 3/4 of their original height, I'm at 12 1/4" of travel in the rear. I've tossed around the idea of doing a 3 or 4 link setup but I'm not sure if it's worth the money. What I'm thinking about doing now to maximize my rear travel is running revolver shackles and a longer (14") shock depending on how much the revolvers actually unfold.

I've seen a lot with regards to the revolver shackles with people saying the shocks are the limiting factor, but in my case, they wouldn't be. If I could stay leaf sprung without going cantilevered or linking the rear and still get a solid (estimated) 14" of travel I would be very pleased.

As for the shock mount problems, I'll put up pictures of the setup I went with before I sheared off the bolts on the shock mounts. It was a very expensive and stupid mistake on my part.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
with the correct lower mount placement and a 12" stroke shock that should be all he needs. our rigs cant utilize much more than a 14" shocks, and the gains from 12" to 14" stroke can be regulated by shock angle and valving. just my thoughts.

t
Unless I ran a Bilstein 7100 12" travel short body shock, fitting a full size 12" travel shock under is VERY difficult. It could be done if the lower shock mounts actually sat 7" off of the axle housing like with the total Chaos mounts, but with that, they're going to hang down and be beaten to death when actually wheeling. That would be fine for someone who stayed in the desert where the shock mounts don't (or shouldn't) come into contact with anything. But in my case, I'd like to get the lower mount out of the way. This is where it gets hard fitting the 12" shock in there without having the shocks angled back immensely. By running the shocks barely into the cargo area, or like you said the wheelwell, I could have the best of both worlds by having an almost vertically mounted shock, with lower mounts that are completely out of harms way.

Edit: I just went and checked, you should be able to fit a 12" travel shock in there while still keeping the lower mount less exposed. The upper shock mounts on the crossmember that I had made were too far out making the upper mounts come into contact with the body. If I cut off the mounts and moved them over a about two inches per side and extended the upper mounts it should fit, it would be close but it could be done as long as the shocks were mounted not completely but almost vertically.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Because I had seen how Draconian did the shock relocate with the crossmember I decided I could have Staang's Fab do my shock mounts and crossmember. I'm kicking myself in the but after seeing how simple it would have been to just weld in a piece of square tubing(or even round) to mount the upper shock mounts on. Here's what the Eric at Staang's Fab came up with to help me maximize the height of the upper mount as needed.





Here are the lower shock mounts that would have worked perfectly if it wasn't for the user error for both the bolt measurement and placement of the mount when I welded it on.





Got everything on welded there, just to realize that the upper mounts were a bit further out than they should have been but I could work with that. Also, the lower shock mounts were about 2" higher than they should have been. (Don't ask how I managed to accomplish that)











This has been probably my biggest FUBAR working on the X to this day... To make a long story short, I had a guy that I know with a plasma cutter, cut off my shock mounts so I could re weld them a few inches down, he managed to somehow obliterate the mounts to where they weren't useful anymore.

For a temporary fix I used trail gear lower mounts, and borrow a set of 10" Bilsteins from a friend. I headed out to Pismo where I then hear a weird noise which I find out to be one side of the upper shock mount had sheared off(the 2 bolts holding the side plate into place) and that cause the main 1/2 mounting bolt to shear off.

That's my best explanation of where I'm at currently, and why I'm wanting to simplify this process by just putting my shocks through the cargo area if I end up running the revolver shackles.

Hopefully that clarified my reasoning behind doing all of this. :tard::tard:
 

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Yeah, our rear frames are pretty wide, no way you'd fit a shock in the wheel well without it hitting the tire at full stuff. Especially with that much articulation. Maybe if you ran a 6" wheel spacer... lol.

Unless I ran a Bilstein 7100 12" travel short body shock, fitting a full size 12" travel shock under is VERY difficult.
I don't get it. Why are you opposed to the 7100's? They are awesome. They are your solution. I've got the 12's, they fit fine with a new upper mounts and both hung to the rear. If you can fit a 12" Radflo then you could fit a 14" 7100.

You might be getting greedy going for 14". No problem with that, but you have a diminishing return. Its a lot more work and money for the extra travel.

Also, be careful how much you are twisting your leaf springs. You may want to look into Baja Bushings. Look at the SBA2041. The Revolver shackles will also alleviate the problem but both solutions introduce their own issues. I'd recommend a limit strap to the center of the diff if you go with revolver shackles. Set it to right about where the shackles start to unfold. It should help with the "unloading" issue but still allow one side to droop past the limit under full articulation.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, our rear frames are pretty wide, no way you'd fit a shock in the wheel well without it hitting the tire at full stuff. Especially with that much articulation. Maybe if you ran a 6" wheel spacer... lol.



I don't get it. Why are you opposed to the 7100's? They are awesome. They are your solution. I've got the 12's, they fit fine with a new upper mounts and both hung to the rear. If you can fit a 12" Radflo then you could fit a 14" 7100.

You might be getting greedy going for 14". No problem with that, but you have a diminishing return. Its a lot more work and money for the extra travel.

Also, be careful how much you are twisting your leaf springs. You may want to look into Baja Bushings. Look at the SBA2041. The Revolver shackles will also alleviate the problem but both solutions introduce their own issues. I'd recommend a limit strap to the center of the diff if you go with revolver shackles. Set it to right about where the shackles start to unfold. It should help with the "unloading" issue but still allow one side to droop past the limit under full articulation.

Good luck.
I definitely see what you're saying. I'm still considering doing the 7100's by all means. At the moment, I'm just trying to figure out if I can actually gain anything by running revolver shackles and sticking the shocks further up there if need be.

I do like the idea of the center limit strap if I end up with the revolver shackles though.

I guess what I need to do is find someone on here who has ran them and pick their brain a little bit.
 

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I guess what I need to do is find someone on here who has ran them and pick their brain a little bit.
Revolver shackles? I've looked and failed to find anyone on here that's run them. There are a lot of mixed reviews, and a lot of fierce internet arguments supported by "physics" that run the gamut from actual data to just-knowledgeable-enough-to-be-dangerous to flat-out-wrong. Its hard to pick through.

Without any personal experience, the best I can tell is that they can be great if correctly setup, although they will always effect the characteristics of the suspension some. The next task is defining "setup correctly." As far as I can tell that means the center limit strap and a design that doesn't require the shackles to fully open. They're better when used to get that extra little bit, not an extra 5".

Again, caveated with no personal experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, I just got off the phone with Greg. He advised me against them for the little to no benefit I would gain for what it's worth basically. Also as for travel and worrying about running shocks into the cargo area I've decided just to cut off my upper shock mounts, and move them over a bit so I can maximize how high the shock mount is. Then I'm just going to stick some decent 12" travel shocks down there and call it good. I will put up pictures here in the near future of how I have the rear setup.
 

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One of the moderators over on XterraFirma (TJ IIRC) has run revolver shackles for quite a few years. I used to troll that site before finding this one.

Although he's in a Gen 1 I'll bet he would be a wealth of information.

I've seen plenty of 33"s rub the frame rails at full stuff
My 32s rub the frame rails at full stuff; drivers side more so, but there's a nice shiny spot on both frame rails.
 

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I coulda told you Greg doesn't like 'em. I've talked to him about them. He repeated a physics explanation I've seen a lot around the internet that I don't entirely agree with.

Either way, I think you'll be perfectly happy with 12's once you get a good setup going.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think someone needs to grab a pair and actually test them and see how they perform that way there are some definite answers for how well they may or may not work with a second gen. It would be interesting to see because I haven't heard much good, or bad about them just because everyone that has answers seems to haven't had the Revolvers.
 
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