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Discussion Starter #1
As I was cleaning my X today I noticed the rubber seal around my wetbox is starting to disintegrate. What are you all using to replace it with? Thanks.
129246
 

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Removing those four bolts may turn out to be problematic in the long run. Might want to hold off as long as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Luckily they came out without any problems. Cleaning the roof at the moment. I was gonna add some anti seize to them before they go back in though.
 

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Which year is your X? Pre 2010 removing the bolts is easy (even if some torque is needed). 2010+ I would be more careful. Use hand tools only up there. Torx 30 or 27 tip.

even on a 2005 I haven’t seen them falling apart. Not a part I would expect sold separately. Slightly different pre and post 2010. Junkyard trip? eBay?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine is a 2011. They came out without any issues. There is some slight rusting on the bolts and in the hole but that’s expected with a 9 year old vehicle. Gonna clean them both up with a tap and die and then throw on some anti seize just for preventative maintenance.
 

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2011 PRO-4X
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Let us know if you find the seal. I was just looking at a 2011 on saturday that we might buy and the seal is 75% missing also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
From what I’ve seen it doesn’t look as if Nissan offers one, or at least not according to any parts fiche I’ve seen. I was thinking of using a butyl rubber caulking or some flex seal flex shot in black but was waiting to see if anybody else chimed in first with their repairs.
 

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I just checked also and you can buy it from Nissan but it is sold as part of the entire air dam for $1,200, WTF Nissan?
I saw an old post here where someone used a Frost King household door molding that looked almost factory.

Here it is...Seal
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just checked also and you can buy it from Nissan but it is sold as part of the entire air dam for $1,200, WTF Nissan?
I saw an old post here where someone used a Frost King household door molding that looked almost factory.

Here it is...Seal
$1,200 is just crazy! I never thought of a door mounding as a solution. I’ll see if I can find one here locally and give it a try. Thanks for the info!
 

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Crazy prices, supply and demand.... old stock... but was crazy even when new.
Pro 4X Roof Light assembly was $800, now over $1000, just the panel with lights, and they don't sell the lights separately, so you either live with a broken lamp (custom fit plastic mold), or you get the whole assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Crazy prices, supply and demand.... old stock... but was crazy even when new.
Pro 4X Roof Light assembly was $800, now over $1000, just the panel with lights, and they don't sell the lights separately, so you either live with a broken lamp (custom fit plastic mold), or you get the whole assembly?
I looked at one of those assemblies, briefly, to put on my X trim model. That is until I saw the price. I could buy rigid industry lights for those prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Something like this? Automotive or outdoors version, or see how it does
"Car Door Henges, Furniture, Vending Machines, Running Boards, Fender Flares"

Fortunately I’ve got a Graingers less than a mile from my house but I believe I’m gonna try the threshold first. Thanks for the ideas.
 

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I just used some generic trim sealer off of Amazon when the seal on my 2011 gave up the ghost. Clean the air dam off and stick it directly to that. Works like a charm.


 

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Don’t bother with the Frost King door bottom weatherstrip as it’s not thick enough and doesn’t even touch the roof.

Going to try the amazon one posted above.
 

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Don’t bother with the Frost King door bottom weatherstrip as it’s not thick enough and doesn’t even touch the roof.

Going to try the amazon one posted above.
I'm considring the same thing. So, how did it work for you? Looks OK?
 

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So likely a really stupid question - but why do I care if this seal fails?
 
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