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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,
This is all in regards to the factory PRO-4X Roof Lights in the air dam. A few weeks ago I went to turn my roof lights on and there was just nothing there. No light from the switch, no click. I use these fairly frequently when on back roads for deer spotting so this is not a "don't know how it works" item. highbeams on, i never use the covers so we can rule out the magnet, all that is good.

At first I thought, no big deal, its just a fuse. Took some searching on the forum to discover what fuse handled that, but turns out i couldn't find any blown fuses.

Any other recommendations or ideas here? Thanks in advance guys.
 

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The momentary switch connects to a momentary relay. Relay may be out, or the fuse, wherever that fuse is. Bulbs up top could be blown.
It will take using a voltmeter to see how the voltage behaves at different points, starting at the switch and following it, also testing up top...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All good points . . . Does the X detect if a roof bulb goes and disables the switch? Fuse was checked and no issues there . . . although i may hunt for additional. Anyone know which relay it is before i go dumpster diving under the dash? 😅
 

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Does your switch light go on with lights on?
With engine on and high beams on, does the short bottom line on the switch go on after you press the button?

I use aftermarket Baja lights now instead of the original lights, brighter, less windshield glare, adjustable, not cracked lens (happened within a few months of driving without covers).

Prior to these lights I had a bypass made so that the high beams didn't have to be on for stock off road lights, the new switch would turn it on without conditions. I didn't do that myself so can't comment about the relay location, I think it was just bypassed because it wasn't easy to locate.

I use the new lights a lot more, I prefer right hand on/off control
Mostly the red switch above the rear brake in the following pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your Baja Lights sounds great!

switch lights does not illuminate or click at all now. completely dead. which is why i first suspected a fuse.

I am aware of the bypass, although i have never gotten around to hot-wiring it. at this point i would want to fix issue #1 first so i have one variable to worry about haha.
 

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This is how my lights behave.
Engine off, lights on, text lights up.
Engine on, high beams on, still no bottom line lighting up. So apparently the switch light knows there is no load at the end. Even with my bypass switch that doesn't need high beams on, no line lights up.
In your case, the switch text never comes on, so it may be something just on the other side of the switch or where the switch is connected, it's the switch not being able to send the command.

Video
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kind of funny, i don't recall my written words EVER lighting up at night, but I feel like I must be wrong on that. it seems to have all of the markings of a fuse issue . . . perhaps there is an additional fuse that effects this i haven't found yet. I will have to do some more digging.

Now i'm thinking outloud . . . if the relay went would that prevent light up power from going to the switch at all?
 

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My S2 Pro Baja lights are great, weight half a pound, you can adjust them up down angle, and sideways, held only by stock stock bolts, low profile and air resistance...
Pricey but double the output of "S2 Sport" (vs my "S2 Pro") and even if the front lens would break, it's a $15 replacement, not impossible to find like with stock lights.

All adds up, in theory you could re-use your stock wiring (if it worked) because the load is only 2 amps per light, and your stocks need a bit more.

In your case it makes sense to investigate behind the light.

Generally speaking, the switch like this (low voltage) has its own power source (thin wires).
Relay has its own power connection (thick wires).
Your switch may be handling 0.25 amps to just let you flip a switch, but it triggers a relay with its own power connection and it can handle 5, 10, 30, 50 amps (generally speaking).

Light out may be just the LED that lights up being dead (or the thin wire..... could be from factory), which is just an indicator, not effecting operation
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right, but it is affecting operation at this time. Looks like its time to get the multimeter out, hopefully spot the wires on the back of the switch without tearing the dash apart, and measure from the switch, back to the relay, and if push comes to shove up to the light. I don't have a ton of experience hunting down electrical issues . . . but it seems like a great time to start!
 

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Maybe the switch is just dirty from all the badass offroading that you've been doing? Just take off the switch and clean the metal contacts? I've never taken off the switch before so it's just an uneducated guess from me for now :p
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Haha. That would be a wonderful explanation @hybrid90

Alright so i went out there, realized that the switch lettering "off road lamps" DOES in fact light up. its just super dim and i don't think i ever noticed it before. I for the life of me don't know where to begin to troubleshoot this tho. I removed the switch. there are 6 contacts on the back. Impossible to see which relay it goes to as it gets combined with all of the dash wiring into one loom. Part of me is wondering if the trigger to tell this switch that the high beams are or not on is broken. Thoughts?

Actually here is a simple question. Does anybody elses switch CLICK when depressed so i can rule out broken switch at least? i don't think it does, i believe its a momentary contact that switches ON vs OFF based off of the other parameters of highbeams on being met. Thanks!
 

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No it does not click because it's a so called "momentary" switch meaning it doesn't have an on/off position, just a pulse that is sent. In some switches that would be "on only when pressed", like a flashlight may have that setting.
The momentary switch sends a signal to relay which latches (holds) that command and turns and keeps on something until it gets another command.

Get a professional is not an appreciated suggestion around here, but that's what I thought of initially, if you have to ask, have someone do it instead, because some things are difficult to convey when someone like me hasn't done the exact thing himself (but paid instead), because things complicate and hours can go by. And once you find the issue, solve it, your needs change and you want more. I did. After getting a switch bypass I went and replaced the whole light setup not long after.

Half hour (or less, but they would charge you that) is what it would take someone skilled with car electronics. Not all places are good, but sometimes you can gauge them especially if they come recommended from someone you know. Half hour to diagnose, fix, done. How much is your time worth?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
precisely what i though in regards to the switch. In regards to the rest, All true points. I'm generally pretty good at troubleshooting electronics and mechanical things for my job. I suppose i just lack the knowledge on where everything goes and how this system works. The bypass itself could solve the issue simply because it could be the "high beam detecting" portion of the circuit that is broken (since it is currently responding exactly how it would if there were no high beams on). Part of me wants to do that, but part of me does not want to start a new project on a circuit that is currently not functioning.

Let me do more research and see what relay we are working with and perhaps i can detect what portion of it is feeding what to continue testing.
 

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If your light is dim, it could be an issue with the ground just for the switch.
It could be other things too.
Think through what you want, if that light position fits you (it didn't fit me), if it doesn't, find a place you want the switch, buy the switch, bring it to a car place, ask for estimate, have them go in, tell you what's wrong, make a decision about it..... get done in 30-60 minutes with working lights.

It could be bad ground on the switch you press, or it could be an issue with the relay, but it may be faster to skip the switch, skip that relay, buy a $15 relay (pay the shop for a new relay), have them do a new ("normal" switch, with on and off position) switch, no dependency on high beams...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You're basically saying rather then fix this switch, ditch it and do a new switch and setup fresh . . . not a bad plan.

To answer your question, i'm going camping in a week and would like to fix this before then since i just discovered it not working. Do i like the location? no not really. Long term plan was to swap the roof boobs out with HID's or Baja light, and add flood lighting to the sides and back of the roof rack, and a 20" LED bar on the bumper all wired to a bank of OTRATTW switches either on the roof, or in front of the shifter (leaning towards roof). Am i ready to do all of that now? No i haven't full planned it out . . . but your points have merit.
 

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Even the "simple" idea is not that simple. The cable for the roof lights goes on the driver side up the pillar.
Find those 4 wires (why 4?) and connect your own relay, your own switch. Maybe you can skip a relay because the lights don't draw 5 amps (which your switch can handle).
Remember to add the fuse of course.
That's the simple idea not needing diagnostics (finding what is there, if it's getting power/ground, see if it works or not).

To do the above you need to take off the driver side pillar, not bad, but why is it 4 wires not just 2, I don't know. One of them should be at 12V other at ground (when on, which it's not now, so how can you know what's what).

Searching google I found this:

with pictures. Has a big flip switch added next to original switch.
Even has an Items required list 😀
 
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