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Im wanting to buy a Light bar for my roof but I'm not wanting to deal with drilling a hole through the roof. Anyone know any forums, videos, or tips they can send over to help? Thanks
 

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My SiriusXM antenna was a little puck that attached magnetically to my roof on passenger front side.
The thin cable ran under the windshield molding. And into the engine bay. From there you would go through a firewall. Sounds scary, but chances are you have some holes that haven't even been covered, I saw a couple on the driver's side on mine.

It depends on the moulding, and when your windshield gets changed, so does the molding. For better or worse. It may not fit anymore.
There is 3M double side tape
(avoid questionable sellers, buy at Home Depot)

125847

That is your McGyver tool for many things.
It sticks to metal, plastic, trim pieces inside and outside the car.
I have strips of it on for the past 4 years on the outside and they are still holding.

So potentially this could cover your otherwise visible cable if it doesn't fit under the moulding of the windshield.
You just don't use the sticky outside as a sticky side, it's black, blends in with the moulding.

Going through the roof can be done well by someone skilled (or experimenting), but would need some headliner dropping, running the cable, reinforcement around the hole and some gluing compound.

But McGyver would use the 3M tape.
 

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^^ Mounting it to the roof is not the issue. It is running the wires. How do you plan to run power without drilling a hole? You gonna run it down the side of your windshield and into the hood? Seems really messy and probably won't last long. I guess you could use the windshield moulding but there is probably a reason that no one does it this way.

The "right way" is to drill a hole. It really isn't bad. It is under the wetbox and you can use clear sealant that you get for $6 at any auto parts store.
 

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I agree about the right way..... hole under the wetbox/air dam.
Some kind of sealant blob.
Some headliner finicking -- scary to headliner amateurs like me, I will have someone else do that part
 

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If you have roof boobs already you can always repurpose the factory stuff. Thats what I did. Removed the fuses, switches, and cut the wiring. Then terminated it back in the cab. Then ran my own 10G light bar and 14G Rigid D2 rear light wiring thru the factory grommet, backfilled with silicon, used nice 3M crimp/ epoxy butt spices, and shrunk/ loomed the entire assy. Looks better than factory.






 

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Nice pictures and info, spoolup
Looks like you are sharing the ground wire?
I ran 5 sets of 2wires each just today, gets quite bulky.
current use:
1) top marker lights (5 of them, few mA draw)
future use:
2) front middle: spots
3) front sides: floods
4) actual sides from sides of the basket
5) TBD (don't want to touch the roof-into-cabin wiring again, but there might be another future purpose in a few years)

I didn't finish with the hole or grommet yet, or start. I just took the grommet piece out.
Driver's side pillar got crowded. I taped 5 cables (2 wires each) to each other, 18 awg each


Here is what the stock setup looks like:
126153

126154
 

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Yup, its a 10AWG ground that is just a few feet long. More than enough for some LED lights. 10AWG at 10ft is within means for 50A loads. Figure my ground is 5'???? I have @21A current draw if both the light bar and the pair of D2 duallys in the rear are on. So Im more than safe and it was easier to run. Good looking setup on yours as well.
 

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What are those quick connectors?
Do you just slide the wires inside and that’s it?
They look great.
Got a link to Amazon perhaps?
 

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The yellow and blue butt splices? Or the beige/ orange connectors.

The yellow and blue butt splices are simply that, butt splices. They are nicer than the standard as they are made by 3M and have a strip of solder in the ferrule as well as a heat activated epoxy in the jacket that is also a shrink. The crimp is manually crimped crushed. Then when you heat the sleeving. The solder in the spice melts and flows to help the bond. The sleeve melts and shrinks and the epoxy then bonds to the wire insulation. waterproof, secure, and one of the best ways to do it.

The beige/ orange connectors as "deutsch connectors". They are a waterproof quick disconnect that can have many contacts in different sizes. They take a special crimp tool to make the connection with different dies for the contact sizes. There is an insertion and removal tool for the contacts within the connector. I use them anywhere where will be water. However inside the truck if I am dealing with current I use Anderson power pole connectors. I have modified many of my goal zero, ARB fridges, chargers, comms, and inverters to use them. They have contacts that go up to 450A. However the common are 15/30/45A contact that uses the same connector body which is super handy when spec'ing your setup. All sources have 45A ability, but connect the auxiliary equipment with something in which it is rated. Much better than dealing with cigarette lighter adapters.
 

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Great info on connectors.
So if I have 4 lights and they all use 2 wire Deutsch connectors (Rigid SR-Q and SR-M lights), and on the other end are 2 bare wires...

what is a good way to connect these? 4 into 1 Deutsch connector on one end with 2 bares crimped into my 2 wires?
 
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