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RoadKiller2006's 2wd to 4wd Conversion - PBR

23K views 54 replies 19 participants last post by  Old Navy 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello! This is my 4wd Conversion Project Thread. I've wanted to convert to 4wd ever since I found TNX Website, and while buying another truck is easier, building it yourself is a lot more fun! I'm also lifting my truck from 2" to 3-4" at the same time.

This thread will follow many of the same steps as what @USMMA11NC, @germandude890, and x_mods from clubfrontier did to convert their 2wd to 4wd, but I figured, more is better.

(Update 01/13/18:) Unfortunately, 'x_mods' thread did not survive the "Photobucket Ransomware Disaster".

First Off - The Parts List: (Note: I included the prices that I paid for reference if anybody else wants to do this conversion.)

Mod Group | Part Nomenclature | MFR & Part Number | QTY | Total Price Front Differential |
|Wheel Bearings/Hubs | Timken SP450701 | 2 | $271.16
|Front Axle Nut (32mm)|Nissan 40262-2Y00A|2|$4.60
|CV Axles|Nissan 39100-EA000|2|$50
|Front Differential (3.36)|Nissan 33100-EA33A|1|$400
|LOKKA locker|Lokka NIS-FO-61|1|$0 Was already in diff
|Differential Bracket LH|Nissan 50333-7S031|1|$21.92
|Differential Bracket RH|Nissan 50332-7S031|1|$21.92
|Differential Bolts|Nissan 54726-7S000|3|$16.02
|Differential Nuts|Nissan 08918-3442A|2|$3.44
|80W-90 (1-3/4 Qts)|Valvoline 831|2|$17.98
Front Driveshaft |
|Driveshaft|Nissan 37200-ZP90A|1|$61
|U-joints|Spicer 5-1310X|2|$42.26
|Front Driveshaft Bolts|Nissan 37120-4P00A|8|$14
|Front Driveshaft Nuts|Nissan 37171-7S00A|8|$10.40
Transmission |
|Transmission Assembly 4x4|Jatco RE5R05A|1|$847.00
|Transmission Filter/Gasket|ATP B-372|1|$14.34
|Front Oil Pump Seal|Nissan 31375-4AX02|1|$5.60
|Matic S (10-7/8 Qts)|Nissan 999MP-MTS00P|11|$95.50
|Washer Seals Oil Cooler Lines|Nissan 21626-32U00|4|$2.96
|Charging Pipe O-ring|Nissan 31084-20301|1|$3.40
|Charging Pipe Gasket|Nissan 31397-90X01|1|$4.32
|Charging Pipe Self-sealing Bolt|Nissan 31377-JL01A|1|$2.41
Transfer Case |
|Transfer Case Assembly|Nissan 33100-EA33A|1|$95.97
|Rear Seal | Nissan 33140-7S110|1|$13.59
|Rear Dust Cover | Nissan 33141-7S11A|1|$11.34
|Transfer - Transmission Bolts|Nissan 08124-0451E|14|$15.13
|Rear Insulator Mount|Nissan 11320-9CA0A|1|$112.14
|Matic D (2-1/8 Qts)|Nissan 999MP-AA100P|3|$29.25
Rear DriveShaft |
|Rear Driveshaft|Nissan 37300-ZP71A|1|$100
|U-joint|Spicer 5-1330X|1|$11.25
|Rear Driveshaft Bolts|Nissan 37120-0P00A|6|$7.92
|Rear Driveshaft Nuts|Nissan 37171-7S00A|6|$7.80
Rear Axle |
|M226 (3.36 - Elocker)|Nissan 43003-9CL0C|1|$700
|U-bolts|Pro-Comp 13-90334A|4|$51.96
|75W-140 (4-1/4 Qts)|Mobil 1 102490|5|$89.75
|Ballistic Fab Cover|Ballistic Fabrication DIF-2018-2|1|$110.50
|E-brake Shoes|Monroe BX869|1|$19.20
|E-brake Spring/Hardware Kit|Carlson 17400|1|$10.34
|Breather Nipple|Nissan 38323-C601A|1|$5.29
Misc |Wiring, Arduino...|||$126.3
|
Shipping ||||$558.28
Discounts |Amazon Gift Cards, Discounts through NORSE..|||$-408.16
|
Total ||||$3,608.95

My Truck has 80k miles
The Front Diff has approximately 70k
The 4wd Transmission has 15k
The Transfer Case and Rear Axle have approximately 100k

I chose to replace the Transmission Filter and Front Seal because LKQ's Warranty will be void if not replaced.
I also chose to replace the Rear Seal and Dust Cover on the Transfer Case because it was Duct taped together and has been banged up during shipping.
All other Seals look good so far.

EDIT: I recommend changing every single Seal while everything is out. They're cheap and much easier to change while component is off the Truck. I've had to replace the Front Output Seal on the Transfer Case and the Front Driver-side Diff Seal was leaking slowly as well. The $50 for all Seals was well worth not having to spend hours under the Truck later on.

I chose to replace the U-joints since its easier to do it before installing them, and they will need to be done at some point so might as well do it now with new ones.

Now for the Lift:

Mod Group | Part Nomenclature | MFR & Part Number | QTY | Total Price Front Suspension |
|Front Adjustable Shocks (5100)|Bilstein 24-187053|2|$193.34
|Coil Springs|Moog 81280|2|$62.12
|Top Rubber Spring Isolators|Nisstec N-UBK|2|$54.14
|Top Mount Rubber Bushings|Included with above|2|$0
|Steel Top Mount Sleeve|Included with above|2|$0
|Top Coilover Washers|Included with above|2|$0
|Lower indented Coilover Washers|Included with above|2|$0
|Shock Top Bracket|Nissan 56115-EA001|2|$22.67
|2" Spacers + Bumpstops|PRG prg-2lk-x|2|$0 Already on truck
|SPC UCA|SPC 25540|2|$350
Rear Suspension |
|Single AAL|Deaver D10045L09|2|$99.00
|Rear Shocks (5100 3-4")|Bilstein BE5-6253-H5
|Shims 4 degrees *** |PRG Xterra shim|2|$44.00
|Rear Shackles|PRG prg-shkl-x|2|$0 Already on truck
|
Shipping ||||$22.19
Discounts ||||$-49.98
|
Total ||||$937.86

I bought new Springs because the 2WD Springs are 0.4" shorter at rest and may have a different Spring Rate.
I bought new Top Hats and such because I figured I might as well replace the Bushings and also for convenience since I can assemble the Struts before touching my Truck.
***I originally ordered 3 degree Shims, but PRG sent me 4 degree ones, so we'll see if they do the job.

Below are pictures of the parts. The Rear Axle / Driveshafts are not pictured yet. I'll post those pictures when I have them.












It's heavy...

The Plan
Since this is my Daily Driver, I can't afford many days of downtime at once. I will do this conversion step by step when possible.

My Plan Currently Is To Do:

1- Transmission - Transfer Case - Rear Axle
2- Front Differential
3- Wiring

1-
Step 1 will be the biggest step. It will involve swapping the Transmission and Transfer Case in as well as the M226.
Since I'm 2wd currently, my C200k Flange only has 4 bolts. Since the M226 as well as the 4wd Rear Driveshaft have 6 bolts, I unfortunately can't run the new Transmission with my current Axle easily. This will also include installing the AAL in the Rear.

2-
The second step will involve welding the Differential Brackets to the Frame.
I will then tear apart the Front Suspension to install: The new 4WD Hubs, the 5100s, the SPC UCAs and the CV Axles.
I can then fill the Front Diff with fluid and Drive the Truck like that. It will still be in 2wd since no Driveshaft will be connected to the Diff just yet.

3-
This step will be the easiest since I already figured out how to control the Transfer Case without going trough any of the Factory Computers. I will post the Arduino Code once I test it in real life situations. So far I've only tested it with the Actuator out of the TC.
This will also include the wiring of various LED Indicators to ensure that everything is working properly.
I will also wire the Rear e-Locker in this step.

I won't have any progress for a few weeks since I'm going through finals and I'm still waiting on a few parts. I do have all the parts to complete Step 1 though.

If you see anything wrong / any part that I should have/replace that I don't have listed, feel free to let me know !

Thanks for reading
 
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11
Rear Axle

In this section we will talk about swapping the Rear Axle, installing the AALs, the new Shocks, as well as changing U-joints on the Rear Driveshaft. I've included the Driveshaft in this section because I feel like this is where it belongs even though it won't be put in until the Transmission/Transfer Case go in.

Step 1: Gather and Inspect all Replacement Parts




I cannot stress this enough, inspecting is the most important part of the job. The last thing you want to do is swap the Axle and learn that you have the wrong ratio, have a bent Axle Shaft, have destroyed Gears... I didn't do this, but you should replace all Seals no matter how good they look. (Ask me how I know lol.)

Back to inspecting, it's hard to see in the pictures, but the rear had a good amount of Rust on the housing. The cover was very crusty, the Backing Plates had a couple holes in them, and the Brake Lines had seen better days. The inside was in good condition however, which is the most important part.
This is what I checked when I opened it up:

- Correct ratio: Turn the Ring Gear until you see numbers engraved on its side. For a 3.36 Ratio the numbers should read 47-14. 47 is the number of Teeth on the Ring Gear, while 14 is the number of Teeth on the Pinion. So 47/14 is 3.357.

- Condition of said Gears: Cracks, chips and rust on the inside of the housing. I also removed the Breather and shined a light inside there to check for rust.

- Trueness of the Axles. You want to make sure you don't have bent Axle Shafts. Make sure they're good.

- Try the Locker: If your new Axle has a Factory Locker, take a 9V Battery and touch it to the Blue and Grey Wires coming out of the Axle. You should hear a pop and visually see a Flange move 1/4-1/2 inch on the inside.

- Generally inspect the outside: While doing this I found that the Hard Brake Lines had a little more rust than I was comfortable with, and that my e-Brakes were missing a Spring.

- Now also inspect the driveshaft: The major thing to look for here is the cleanliness of the Slip Yoke. This part has to be clean, smooth, and without rust because this is the part that moves in and out of your Transfer Case while also rotating. If this part isn't good, your Transfer Case will leak. My Yoke was fairly clean, I did use 3000 Grit Paper to make it 100% clean and smooth. As long as it doesn't have dings or rust pits you should be able to clean it up. Also look at the CV Joint at the back of the Driveshaft. It is serviceable contrary to what Nissan says, but it's expensive so look for tears in the Boot. You can also look at the U-joint, but you should replace that no matter what. They're less than $20 each and it's not worth having one explode, because it went dry and destroy a lot of expensive parts.

Now that we've made sure the parts we got are use-able, we need to correct anything that is not up to standards before installing them.

For me, this meant cleaning up and repainting the Axle. The pictures that follow are just that.




I cleaned up the Axle with a Wire Wheel and a Grinder before spraying Primer, and finished with a Black Enamel Paint. I also recommend using massive amounts of Brake Cleaner over the entire Axle. I also installed a Ballistic Fab Cover, since the old one was beyond saving, and their covers are great. I also tried my best to bend back the Backing Plates before painting.

As you can see, the old Brake Lines and e-Brake Cables are also gone. I will reuse my current lines since they were rust free.

Now is also a good time to prepare the Driveshaft. The paper towels wrapped in Electrical Tape in the pictures is to protect the Slip Yoke from scratches and dirt.

Step 1: Use a U-joint Press to press the old Bearing Caps out. Make sure you mark the Yoke and the Body before removing the U-joints to make sure they go back in the same direction. This will make sure it doesn't get put back together the wrong way and throw off balance.


Step 2: Press the new U-joint back in, making sure the Needles go in straight. Press the Caps far enough to see the retaining groove and insert the Clips.


Step 3: Inspect the 4 sides, and make sure the Clips are in place. If the U-joint is hard to move by hand, tap all 4 sides with a Hammer to relieve the pressure.



Now lets get to the fun part, which is getting the C200k out, and the newly painted M226 in: :)

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery. It may not be necessary, but since we will be disconnecting ABS Sensors for extended periods of time, and possibly splicing wires, I didn't want to take any chances. While you're up front, Chock the Wheels.

Step 2: Disconnect the Driveshaft. Mine was a 4 bolt, and the bolts were on there very tight. I decided to take the U-joint off instead and deal with the bolts when the Axle was removed. Remember that without a Driveshaft, the only thing holding your Truck in place is your e-Brakes.


Step 3: Get the Spare Tire out of the way so you have more space to work.

Step 4: Disconnect the ABS Connectors. There are a lot easier to disconnect than the Front ABS Sensors. Just stick a Flathead in there and push/twist in the plug. They'll come out easily without risking cutting wires.


Step 5: Jack up the Truck and secure it on Jack Stands. Make sure you Chock the Front Wheels since nothing will hold your Truck in place. Push on the Truck to make sure that the Stands are not moving. You will be spending a lot of time under the Truck.

Step 6: This step is kinda optional, but I was going to remove the Cover, (to sell), so I drained the Fluid of the old Axle.

Step 7: Remove both Shocks. Start with the bottom bolt. Shocks gave me problems on the removal and install, so maybe there's a better time than now to remove them?

Step 8: Remove your Tires, and Wheel Spacers if you have them. Remove the Calipers, (as entire assemblies, there's two bolts) and also remove the Rotors. You can rest the Calipers on the Leaf Springs for now, but put the Rotors in a safe place since you will be reusing them. I also took the time to unbolt the old ABS Sensors and remove them completely so I wouldn't damage them, (I also did that on the new Axle before painting.)

Step 9: Remove the e-Brakes. I bought new Shoes and Springs, but if you didn't, make sure you don't bend the Springs. You will want to push and turn on the two pins with a Flathead Screwdriver to pop the old Shoes off. Since I was reusing the e-Brake Cables, I had to disconnect them here. On the Clip assembly that retains the Cable, push out the metal pin, (DON'T LOSE IT, IT'S SMALL), to release the Cable. The Cable can be unbolted from the other side of the Backing Plate. Take the time to remove the Cables from the rest of the Axle, and push them out of the way.

Step 10: Remove the U-bolts. Now your Axle will only be attached to the Truck by the Brake Lines.

Step 11: Remove the Brake Lines from where the Lines go from soft to hard on the Axle itself. You will want some way of catching the Fluid coming out, as Brake Fluid is a b!tch. You will want to unclip the Brake Lines along the entire Axle and pull them out, (while keeping them attached to the Calipers.)


Step 12: Pull the old Axle out. To make this easy, I unbolted the bottom of the Shackles on each side.


Step 13: Since I was adding AALs at the same time, I found it easier to do while the Axle wasn't in the way. Clamp the Leafs, and remove the Factory Centering Pin. Vice-grips help to remove the Pin, as it is completely round on top. You will want to play around with the Clamps while inserting the AAL in-between the Leaf Pack and the Overload Leaf. The short side of the AALs goes in towards the front. I used a 4 degree Shim, but YMMV. Insert the new Center Bolt in, and Torque it down to whatever the place you got your bolt from recommends. Cut the end of the bolt if it's sticking out a lot. Mine was barely long enough to thread the nut on, so I didn't have to cut.


Step 14: Wheel the new Axle over the Leaf Springs, and reattach the Shackle to the Leafs. Torque down to 77ft-lbs.

Step 15: Lower down the Axle onto the Leafs, making sure the ends of the Centering Bolts go into the holes in the Spring Perches. At this point you can install the new U-bolts. I used slightly larger diameter U-bolts than Stock, so I had to Torque them down to 100ft-lbs YMMV. You want to Torque these in steps and evenly. I did 30, 50, 75, 90, 100. You want to check the U-bolt Torque after a few miles, and then every couple Hundred Miles until you don't have to tighten them anymore. Your Suspension will move around a little and any play will make these bolts a little loose. They will eventually hold their Torque.


Step 16: You can now re-attach your Brake Lines. You can slide the Hard Lines back in place the same way you removed them earlier. The earlier you re-attach them, the less Fluid will leak.

Step 17: Reinstall the, (new), e-Brakes. The first thing you will want to do here is re-attach the Cable to the Clip. I don't have direct pictures of this, but you can see the "Clip" in question in the picture below on the right. You will want to put Grease were the Shoes contact the Backing Plate, and on the Adjustment Screw. The Springs are a pain to put in Plate, I recommend Locking Pliers. You will want to adjust the Shoes now as it is a lot easier than through the little Grommet on the Rotors.


Step 18: Reattach the ABS Lines. I had to splice the wires on the Driver-side because the Junkyard cut the wires before the plug. You could buy new Sensors, but M226 Sensors are $$$$. Put your Rotors back on, and your Calipers, (Torque to 76 ft-lbs), your Spacers, if applicable and your Wheels.

Step 19: Install the new Shocks. The Top Nut gets Torqued at 33 ft-lbs, and the Bottom at 155 ft-lbs.



Step 20: Fill up your Axle with 2.01L of Gear Oil. I used Mobil 1 75w140

Step 21: Lower the Truck, and Bleed the Brakes.

Now, since the 2wd Axle was a 4-bolt, and the new Axle is a 6-bolt, I had to do the Transmission Modifications at the same time, so I did not install the new Driveshaft yet. See the next section for that...
 
Honestly, with what you're doing, you might as well Titan Swap it. Get a M205 front diff instead of a R180. Most people end up doing that because of the off road advantages and the titan components are stronger. You'll be much happier. Looking forward to this project.
I thought about it, but it's too late now, I already have the R180 and the Suspension. In other news, I got my Transmission Delivered today.





Everything checks out OK. The Fluid Residue when I removed the Torque Converter looked almost as Red as new Fluid.

It does have 2 bolts missing on the back of the Adapter Case, but I can source that fairly easily.

Also, if anybody knows what bolts on the bottom of the Transfer Case Adapter Case, please let me know. It's threaded and didn't have anything there when I received the Unit. I should have taken a more detailed picture, but the hole is circled in Red in the last picture. I was thinking that it's for the Insulator Mount, but I didn't see a second hole. The second one may not be a through hole though ?
 
Got the Rear Axle and Rear Driveshaft.




It's Heavy...

Gears look good, Locker works. There is some rust on the housing, but I will clean and paint before installing it. I need to get one of the Springs for the e-Brakes, because one was broken. EDIT: I ordered new Springs and e-Brake Pads. Also, do I need to remove the Axle Shafts to remove the Dust Shields? The right one is rusted through in some spots.
 
Did some work today.

Cleaned up the Axle and sprayed some Rust Converted on parts of it, also painted the Backing Plates / Dust Shields on both sides. I will put Spare Wheels on it tomorrow and paint the rest of the Axle.


I don't have pictures, but I cleaned up the Slip Yoke on the new Rear Driveshaft, and removed the U-joint. Also started painting the first color of my M226 Cover.

I also decided to reuse my current e-Brake Cables since they're in better shape.

Got my Front Driveshaft. The U-joints had been replaced not too long ago from the looks of it, but I'm still going to change them to be on the safe side + I don't like Grease-able ones.


I should have every part to do the swap now, less a couple bolts I'm waiting on from Nissan.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Don't take this the wrong way as it's awesome seeing someone do this but considering how much you've paid for this so far wouldn't it have been easier just to trade in your X for a 4x4 version? You could have stock-ified it and saved a lot of time and probably a decent amount of money.
Valid question that I've asked myself many times lol

Cheaper ? yes but not by a lot. If you take out the cost of the fluids / u joints / wheel bearings and Lokka. 3 of which being items that I would have had to change at some point either way.
So from the $3600 to do the swap (the second table is for additional lift only), you'd already drop to $2700. I'm sure 2wd Xterras sell for less than 4wd ones. And I can sell my transmission and axle to get some money back.

Aside from money, I'm not sure it'd actually take less time.. I'd have to swap a lot of stuff from my current X to the new one. Including the suspension.

And it's also a lot more fun >:)
 
Couldn't paint the Axle, because it was raining today. I did finish painting the Cover though.
I decided to change the U-joint on the Rear DS, as well as the Rear Seal for the Transfer Case while I couldn't work outside. Pics below.

OLD


OUT



NEW


Wasn't too bad. I used a Chisel to cut the Seal while making sure I didn't touch the outside surface. The hardest part was to put the new Dust Cover on...




Again, fairly easy. Just press the old one out, press the new one in.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Aren't the shock mounts like that normally? I had to grind this flare off before installing my shock skids:

He's right, the right bracket is a little bent, but I think I can slide the shock in there without bending it back. If I can't I'll bend it back, touching up the paint really quick wont be hard.
 
I only had the afternoon to work today, but I got the C200k out.

I don't have many pictures, but here are my Steps,

- Disconnect Driveshaft: I couldn't get the bolts loose so I decided to take the U-joint out.


- Disconnect the Battery:

- Disconnect the ABS Wires: The plugs were surprisingly easy to disconnect. Don't use Pliers, just a medium Flathead Screwdriver and push/twist on the tab.


- Jack-up Truck and Secure It: Wheel Chocks on the Front Tires, and release e-Brake. I also let the Rear Axle fully droop and secured it with Jack Stands.

- Drain Fluid:

- I removed the Sway-bar: While the fluid was draining.

- Remove Shocks: This was actually the hardest part of the removal for some reason. The bottom bolt on the right Shock wouldn't budge, it finally dropped when I took the U-bolts out later on though.

- Remove Tires / Spacers:

- Remove Calipers: As entire assemblies and Rotors.

- At this point I unbolted the ABS Sensors: Put them to the side so I wouldn't damage them.

- Remove e-Brake Shoes and Cable: There is a metal pin to push out to release the Cable, I am reusing my Cables since they are in better shape than the ones that came with the M226. Put the Cables to the side.

- Unbolts the Brake Lines: Pull the Lines through the Brackets while leaving them attached to your Caliper, (again reusing because my Brake Lines are in better shape.)

- Realize: That Brake Fluid is a huge b!tch.

- Remove U-bolts:

Picture at this Point;


- Unbolt the Leaf Springs: At the bottom of the Shackle. I did this because it makes it a lot easier to remove the old Axle, and I will add AAL which, IMO, is easier done with the Springs completely out.

That's all I had time for today, but tomorrow I'll start earlier and hopefully get the M226 fully in. I'll have to drill out the U-bolt Plates, because my new bolts are thicker, install the AALs, and install the M226.
 
Finished this yesterday:

No Axle / Driveshaft;


AAL and Shims installed;


M226 on the Springs;


e-Brakes;


Shocks in;


Not pictured, but I have the ABS Lines back in, and also changed my Breather Hose. My old one was too wide.

The Shocks and e-Brakes were the hardest part. The rear is now at 39" at the Fender.
My Axle seems at a very steep up angle. I could only get 1.7 L, (2.01L is supposed to go in), of Oil in it even when jacking up the rear.

My e-Brakes also need serious adjusting. I tried adjusting them, but they are tighter on the Rotor when the Handle is released ??? When I pull the e-Brake, the Tires spin more easily. If anybody has suggestions let me know!
 
A Few Updates:

- I fixed the e-Brake problems, it should work fine now.

- I bled the Brakes.

- I started getting the 2wd Transmission out, got everything out ... except the bolts that hold the Transmission on the Engine. The only way I can access the top two bolts is with a Swivel Joint and 30" of Extensions. AKA: It doesn't work. I don't have Air Tools, so I got the Truck Towed, so a shop could take those 2 bolts out and get the new Tranny in.

- I don't have many pics, but here are pictures of me replacing the Filter in the new Transmission, and my Truck getting Towed, (for the first time!). I'll post up the steps and a couple more pics on the first page.



- Here's the good stuff though. I got around to Soldering and Testing my Arduino. I made the Wiring Harness for it minus the length of wiring that will go between the Arduino and where the wiring from the TC enters the Truck. But I can't measure that length without having my Truck apart really. I'll also have to wire in the 3 TC Switches to LEDs separately.

- The Arduino "Box" has 19 Wires coming out of it. 4 of them are basically Power Wires connected to the Truck, 5 of them read the TC Actuator Position, 2 of them control the Actuator Motor, and the remaining 8 control the LEDs and read the Factory Switch.

- I'll update the first post with a more detailed Diagram, but the entirety of the System, (LEDs, OEM Switch, Arduino itself, most of the Actuator), will run on 5 volts, except the Actuator Motor, that goes through a Relay that is powered directly from the Truck. I could maybe have powered that from the Arduino itself as well, but I'm not sure of the Max Amp Rating of the Actuator Motor, and I didn't want to fry anything.

- Here is the Code I used. I have yet to test it on the Truck, but testing it on a Spare Actuator it works flawlessly.

Code:
const int forward = 3; //relay motor forward 2WD->4HI->4LO induces positive to pin 23 on TC.
const int  backward = 2; //relay motor backward 4LO->4HI->2WD induces positive to pin 24 on TC.

const int twowd = 4; //selector switch in 2WD position.
const int fourhi= 5; //selector switch in 4HI position.
const int fourlo= 6; //selector switch in 4LO position.

const int ACTswONE= 7; //Actuator switch 1. From TC pin 26. On EXCEPT when in 4HI.
const int ACTswTWO= 8; //Actuator switch 2. From TC pin 20. On in 4LO ONLY.
const int ACTswTHREE= 9; //Actuator switch 3. From TC pin 21. On EXCEPT in 4LO.
const int ACTswFOUR= 10; //Actuator switch 4. From TC pin 25. On EXCEPT in 2WD.

const int twowdLED = 11; //indicator LED for 2WD.
const int fourhiLED = 12; //indicator LED for 4HI.
const int fourloLED = 13; //indicator LED for 4LO.

void setup() {
// Sets up relay activators as outputs.
  pinMode(forward, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(backward, OUTPUT);
  
// Sets up selector switch positions as inputs.
  pinMode(twowd, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(fourhi, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(fourlo, INPUT_PULLUP);
  
// Sets up actuator position pins as inputs. Pin 22 is also connected to the arduino as a constant ground. (not defined or needed in code).
  pinMode(ACTswONE, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(ACTswTWO, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(ACTswTHREE, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(ACTswFOUR, INPUT_PULLUP);
  
// Sets up indicator LEDs for the 3 positions.
  pinMode(twowdLED, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(fourhiLED,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(fourloLED,OUTPUT);
  
// Makes sure that the actuator motor is not running when the Arduino resets.
  digitalWrite(forward,HIGH);
  digitalWrite(backward,HIGH);
  
// Turns on all the indicator LEDs for a second for troubleshooting. Turns them off afterwards.
  digitalWrite(twowdLED,HIGH);
  digitalWrite(fourhiLED,HIGH);
  digitalWrite(fourloLED,HIGH);
  delay(1000);
  digitalWrite(twowdLED,LOW);
  digitalWrite(fourhiLED,LOW);
  digitalWrite(fourloLED,LOW);
}

void loop() {

//Switch both sides of the actuator to ground by default. Doesn't stay LOW long enough to reopen the relay while the actuator is not on position.
  digitalWrite(forward,HIGH);
  digitalWrite(backward,HIGH);
  
//The following will turn the actuator motor backwards until the TC is in 2WD when the selector switch is on 2WD.
  if(digitalRead(twowd)==LOW) {
    if(digitalRead(ACTswONE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTWO)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswFOUR)==HIGH) {
    }
      else {
        digitalWrite(forward,HIGH);
        digitalWrite(backward,LOW);
      }
   }
  
//The following will turn the actuator forward until the TC is in 4LO when the selector switch is on 4LO.
  if(digitalRead(fourlo)==LOW) {
    if(digitalRead(ACTswONE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTWO)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswFOUR)==LOW) {
     
    }
      else {
        digitalWrite(forward,LOW);
        digitalWrite(backward,HIGH);
      }
  }
  
//The following will turn the actuator from 2WD to 4HI until the TC is in 4HI when the selector switch is on 4HI.
  if(digitalRead(fourhi)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==LOW) {
    if(digitalRead(ACTswONE)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTWO)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswFOUR)==LOW) {
      
    }
      else {
        digitalWrite(forward,LOW);
        digitalWrite(backward,HIGH);
      }
  }
  
//The folowing will turn the actuator from 4LO to 4HI until the tc is in 4HI when the selector switch is on 4HI.
  if(digitalRead(fourhi)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==HIGH) {
    if(digitalRead(ACTswONE)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTWO)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswFOUR)==LOW) {
      
    }
      else {
        digitalWrite(forward,HIGH);
        digitalWrite(backward,LOW); 
      }
   }
  
//LED INDICATORS
  if(digitalRead(ACTswONE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTWO)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswFOUR)==HIGH) {
      digitalWrite(twowdLED,HIGH);
  }
      else{
        digitalWrite(twowdLED,LOW);
      }
      
  if(digitalRead(ACTswONE)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTWO)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswFOUR)==LOW) {
    digitalWrite(fourhiLED,HIGH);
  }
    else {
      digitalWrite(fourhiLED,LOW);
    }
    
  if(digitalRead(ACTswONE)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTWO)==LOW && digitalRead(ACTswTHREE)==HIGH && digitalRead(ACTswFOUR)==LOW) {
    digitalWrite(fourloLED,HIGH);
  }
    else {
      digitalWrite(fourloLED,LOW);
    }
    
}
- I may add some Failsafe Features later on, but for now this is what it does:

1- The first part of the Code is naming all the variables and assigning them to a pin on the Arduino.

2- The void setup is the Code that is only executed when the Arduino is powered on. This part sets every pin as an input or output.
It also sets the two Actuator Motor Wires as Grounded by Default.
It also Blinks the 3 LEDs on for a second. This is purely for troubleshooting to make sure the LEDs work if I ever have a problem, (Amber LED is 2WD, Green LED is 4Hi, Blue LED is 4Lo.)

3- The Void Loop is the part of the Code that is executed over and over while the Arduino is powered on. It will read the position of the OEM Switch as well as the position of the Actuator, and make changes appropriately to get the Actuator in the desired position.
It will also light up the corresponding LED based on the Actuator position.

Couple pictures of making the Harness:



The inside of the Arduino/Relay Box. If I had to do it again, I'd get a box that is a little bit larger. This size made organizing a pain. The wires are Soldered and Hot Glued into place;


The majority of the Harness connected;


Video of the System in Action!

Hopefully I get the Truck back tomorrow, and can start Welding the Brackets for the Front this weekend. I'll most likely do the rest and get it aligned during the Memorial Day Weekend.
 
I should probably Update this.

Transmission was put in a little over a Week ago. I still wish I could have done it myself completely, but I wasn't going to buy Air Tools and a Compressor. Truck has been running great, no problems shifting or anything. I do have a tiny leak at the Transfer Case Front DS Flange, but I'll deal with that later this week when the parts come in.

For future reference, a 2012 Transmission will swap right in for a 2006 Transmission without having to touch the Computers or the Valve Body.

First few miles on the new Transmission;


Looking like a 4x4 almost!


This is my old Transmission after taking a couple lbs of dirt off of it lol.


Now I also did most of the Front. I unfortunately couldn't get good looking Welds on the Front Diff Brackets while laying down on the floor, so I will take it to an Exhaust Shop tomorrow and they'll be able to do it in 10 minutes on the Lift. I will still have to bolt the Diff in and install the CV Axles.

I did do the Suspension and the 4wd Hub Assembly swap though.

Truck jacked up on Jack Stands, Sway-bar disconnected on both sides, Tire/Wheel Well/Spacer/Rotor and Brake Caliper Assembly off. Make sure you rest the Caliper on something so you don't over extend the Lines.


Wheel Hub/Bearing Assembly out. Make sure you disconnect the ABS Sensor BEFORE you remove it. It's a PIA to disconnect, but I found that unhooking the connector from the Clips that go in the Frame helps a lot. There's also a Bracket held in with a screw you can take off to gain some slack. This will also help getting to one of the top 3-bolts on your Strut later on. A big Sledge or a Slide Hammer helps removing the Hub.
I don't have pictures, but I did put Anti-seize where the Hub is pressed in. I chose to install the new Hub now, but you can really reattach it whenever at this point. I did leave the ABS Line disconnected until the end though.


I don't have pictures for this, but now is the time to remove the Coil-over Assembly. After this is done, disconnect the UCA from the Spindle, (remove nut, thread it in a couple turns, then take a BFH and hit away. Hitting on the Spindle right under the Ball-joint worked for me. A couple taps and it'll drop.)
Make sure you attach your Spindle to something so it doesn't overextend the Lower Ball-joint.
Unbolt the Stock UCA from the Frame, (if you get your UCA's second hand, make sure you have an extra bolt, because you'll likely have to cut the rear one on the Driver-side.)
The bolt I ordered didn't come in in time, so a quick trip to home depot solved the problem. I will swap the bolt to the Nissan one once I get it just to make sure though.


Attach the new UCA's, (SPC in my case), and Torque the 2 Frame bolts, (94 ft-lbs).
Set the Ball-joint as far inwards as possible. Then clearance your Coil Bucket with a Grinder until the Boot doesn't touch it anymore. Set the Ball-joint in the middle of the slot, and Torque the Top Nut to 150 ft-lbs. Make sure you paint the area where you grind to prevent rust.



**This is where you'd put in your CV Axles in, but since my Diff Brackets aren't fully Welded in yet, I'll have to do that at a later date**

Install the new Coil-over Assembly, reconnect the Spindle to the UCA, put your Rotor/Caliper/Spacer back on. Make sure everything is tight, then put your Wheel-well and Tire back on!




I'm at 38" in Front and 39" in the Back. 38" may be a little high for the front, but time will tell if I have to change that. I'll take the Truck to get Aligned in the Morning before work.

Updates on the rest: I did end up changing the Fluid in the Rear Axle after 100 miles, because I wanted to get all of the old residue out, and I also wanted to fill it to the full 2.01L. I'm glad I did because the residue had turned the fluid pretty dark already. No metal shavings on the plug though which is good.

I'm still having problems with my e-Brakes... I had them adjusted fine last week, and they progressively got looser during the week. They also started squealing at low speeds, (Stop and go traffic). I may have overset them last week, which caused a lot of Brake Dust to accumulate in the Rotors. I believe that was the cause of the noise because it seems gone.
I also adjusted the nut in the Center Console, the Lever feels a lot tighter now, but the Brakes still don't hold the Truck on a steep hill in Neutral.

Plan for next week is to change the TC Front Output Seal/Flange since they redesigned it at some point, get the Front Diff and CV Axles in.
Once all that is done I'll start running the wiring for everything. I picked up some 1100F Continuous / 2000F Intermittent Heat-shield Sleeving to protect the wires that will run under the Truck fairly close to the Exhaust.
 
Still waiting on the Flange/Seal for the TC, so instead of putting the Diff/Driveshaft in, I did the wiring.

I have the Computer Stuff in Post #31, but over 200ft of wires later, 20ft of Heat-shield Sleeving, and 70ft of Electrical Tape later, the Wiring is Done!












I did clean this up a little more;




Also, my Diff Brackets are Welded and painted;

 
Discussion starter · #41 ·
Looks good but I have to warn you before you have a disaster; that's a terrible place to run wiring on the outside of the frame in the rear wheel well. That's a very common spot for the tire to rub the frame. That would surely tear your wiring up. Move it to on top of the frame or to the inside.
^^^ very good catch. Definitely move that. My frame is rubbed down to the bare metal there. Tires rub the frame all the time when off camber wheeling.
I am glad you said that, I was just about to post the same thing. My rear axle flexes enough that both wheels have totally rubbed through the paint right there. As stated above, move those wires to the inside of the frame.
Appreciate the warning. I'll make sure to relocate those before I take it offroad.
 
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