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Discussion Starter #262
The low mileage on the rack should help your cause. I'd think an older rack with more overall wear would be less capable of taking the extra abuse. Good call on the Hitachi's though, the aftermarket options are pretty terrible.
Here's to hoping...The Hitachi TR's keep popping up on the forums as the only true OEM replacements, so hopefully that does pan out. RockAuto only had one inner, so I had to buy the other on Amazon and it was the last one on there, too. Hopefully, they're not coming from the same place, otherwise, it's to EBay I go.
 

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I'm going to swap to Titan outer tie rods, with Titan inner tie rods, so I just ordered Hitachi Titan inners/outers. I'm currently running PRG heimed outers and I'm getting a pop just left or right of center when I turn the wheel. I also was getting really bad popping when turning with aired down tires while in Moab. Hopefully, it's just the inners going bad and I caught it before the rack is toast. FYI, I'm just under 59K miles on the truck. I read through several posts on FB talking about how heims can kill the the rack pretty quickly, with people like Bill and Zach attesting to the carnage heims can create, I think it's time to get rid of mine before the rack goes.

X2 - I am by no means a tie rod expert. Pros and cons to both. But, I rather replace a outer tie rod on the trail than a inner, or a steering rack. Did you notice I lubed the heims on my truck every time I aired down before a trail in Moab? I have the same concerns has you. But, what a inconvenience it is to lube them that often.
 

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Discussion Starter #264
X2 - I am by no means a tie rod expert. Pros and cons to both. But, I rather replace a outer tie rod on the trail than a inner, or a steering rack. Did you notice I lubed the heims on my truck every time I aired down before a trail in Moab? I have the same concerns has you. But, what a inconvenience it is to lube them that often.
I didn't notice that, but I do regularly lube mine, just not on the trails.
 

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I didn't notice that, but I do regularly lube mine, just not on the trails.
I will be going the Hitachi route too and just carry a spare or 2 under the rear seats. My Inners seem a little slappy has well. Too bad your not here anymore. We could make it a party. Haha.

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Discussion Starter #266
I will be going the Hitachi route too and just carry a spare or 2 under the rear seats. My Inners seem a little slappy has well. Too bad your not here anymore. We could make it a party. Haha.

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I'm still here for about a month, but I'm probably going to bang them out at the auto hobby shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #269
Why Audi coil packs?
There are some recent posts on Facebook about guys running R8 coils, instead of stock. The R8 coils have higher output than the OE coils. This trend started in SR's and RB's, then was developed to work in newer Z-chassis cars. The same guy that made adapters for the Z's found out that the coils also work in the VQ40 and VK motors. On a stock VQ40, he gained about 8HP over stock, I think it was about the same on Z's. Guys that are already running the coils also say they are getting about a 2-3 MPG increase, as well. The initial cost to run the swap is kinda high because of the cost of the adapters, but the coils themselves run between $20 and $30 and are a lot cheaper than our stock coils. Some guys are just buying the coils and wiring them in themselves, without shelling out the $$ for the adapters.
 

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There are some recent posts on Facebook about guys running R8 coils, instead of stock. The R8 coils have higher output than the OE coils. This trend started in SR's and RB's, then was developed to work in newer Z-chassis cars. The same guy that made adapters for the Z's found out that the coils also work in the VQ40 and VK motors. On a stock VQ40, he gained about 8HP over stock, I think it was about the same on Z's. Guys that are already running the coils also say they are getting about a 2-3 MPG increase, as well. The initial cost to run the swap is kinda high because of the cost of the adapters, but the coils themselves run between $20 and $30 and are a lot cheaper than our stock coils. Some guys are just buying the coils and wiring them in themselves, without shelling out the $$ for the adapters.
This is pretty interesting. Keep us updated when you install and about total price for adapters and coil packs! Could you link the thread from other forum/forums so I can look at the dynos and physics/explanation
 

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Discussion Starter #271
This is pretty interesting. Keep us updated when you install and about total price for adapters and coil packs! Could you link the thread from other forum/forums so I can look at the dynos and physics/explanation
It's posted on FB, I'll grab the link for you and post it here. The adapters are $180, which is why some people are wiring them up themselves. As I stated above, the coils run from $20 to $40, depending on which ones you buy. I bought the NGK's for just under $20 on Rock Auto.

 

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It's posted on FB, I'll grab the link for you and post it here. The adapters are $180, which is why some people are wiring them up themselves. As I stated above, the coils run from $20 to $40, depending on which ones you buy. I bought the NGK's for just under $20 on Rock Auto.

Thank you, do the R8 picks have more coil windings therefore creating a larger voltage? This then creates a more powerful spark and a better/more efficient combustion? I’m waiting to get approved by the group on FB!! Haha thank you though
 

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Just like with the intake manifold spacer I'm a bit skeptical. People claim gains, but wouldn't the engineers have optimized the manifold already to squeeze out power and mpg? Same with the coil packs, gaining HP and 2-3mpg would have put the Xterra on top of its class for MPG and power. The proper way would be to dyno before and after, not just butt dynos. I'll be curious to see what you think when it is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #275
Thank you, do the R8 picks have more coil windings therefore creating a larger voltage? This then creates a more powerful spark and a better/more efficient combustion? I’m waiting to get approved by the group on FB!! Haha thank you though
I'm honestly not sure how they create more voltage, I would assume there are more windings.

Here's a different link, where don't have to get approved to see it.


Just like with the intake manifold spacer I'm a bit skeptical. People claim gains, but wouldn't the engineers have optimized the manifold already to squeeze out power and mpg? Same with the coil packs, gaining HP and 2-3mpg would have put the Xterra on top of its class for MPG and power. The proper way would be to dyno before and after, not just butt dynos. I'll be curious to see what you think when it is done.
According to the FB posts, Rico did before and after Dyno runs. Of course, we all know Dyno runs aren't exactly perfect, but he's had gains on a stock Frontier and a modified Z. Sure, I can't argue with engineers, but they designed the power band and designed the engine to have HP and torque that probably met their MPG and power goals. I'm also a firm believer that they designed the 40 to intentionally have low output, so it wouldn't compete with the 56. The airbox is pretty much the same as the Titan, so that just tells me there's a ton of air going in, it just needs to be exploded better and exhausted better. We'll see, though, and no I'm not trying to sway you either way, just giving you my thoughts.
 

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I'm honestly not sure how they create more voltage, I would assume there are more windings.

Here's a different link, where don't have to get approved to see it.




According to the FB posts, Rico did before and after Dyno runs. Of course, we all know Dyno runs aren't exactly perfect, but he's had gains on a stock Frontier and a modified Z. Sure, I can't argue with engineers, but they designed the power band and designed the engine to have HP and torque that probably met their MPG and power goals. I'm also a firm believer that they designed the 40 to intentionally have low output, so it wouldn't compete with the 56. The airbox is pretty much the same as the Titan, so that just tells me there's a ton of air going in, it just needs to be exploded better and exhausted better. We'll see, though, and no I'm not trying to sway you either way, just giving you my thoughts.
I’m definitely interested in this modification so please post updates! I’ll probably wait and see how everyone’s rig is doing with the coil pack swap in terms of reliability before I attempt myself, but I mean the theory makes sense and he does have the dyno run that shows a increase for the whole curve over the rpm range on that fronty, which makes sense if the combustion is more efficient with a better combustion initiation from the pack. And the cost isn’t even that much compared to CAI which is just a glorified noise maker, well for our vehicles anyway
 
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