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Discussion Starter #1
hola,

Some people may have seen another post of mine where I mentioned that I'm trying to put some D2's in place of the stock Pro4x roof lights. I've seen others on this forum talk about attempting to do the same thing but I'm yet to see a success story. That being said I have seen them put into the fog light location so I don't see why this wouldn't be possible. Does anyone know of anybody who has successfully been able to put a dually or d2 up there? If so I was hoping to see how their bracket worked, it would at least reduce what im sure is going to be a good amount of 'trial and error' time.

Also I don't actually have a pro4x.... I'm about to buy the air dam from a member here but I recently found out that S and Pro4x Air Dams attach differently. It seems the Pro4x has push locks and the S has screws, anybody have any tips for how to get around this?


Thanks in advance.
 

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By the time and money you retro fit and fab to make it look good you can just sell your Pro-4X air dam to another member with the deal that they give you their stock air dam, buy the 40" light bar with mounts and plug and play harness from N.Y.X. For $450 and have a clean look, easy install and over 19,000 lumens of light output. I don't think anybody will do the mod you're talking about with the current deal out there now. I plan on doing it in about 2 months, lucky for me my brother has a '13 who wants to trade for my Pro-4X air dam.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Exactly what I didnt want to hear. I appreciate the slap of reality though. My set ups a bit more complicated though, Ill try to explain as best I can but I admittedly suck at explaining things hope it makes since.

First, my x has a sound system (need to take pics, think a lot of you will like the placement of amps and subs). This isn't a "typical" sound system, which ultimately means that it drinks juice like a toddler on club drugs...

This limits somewhat what I can do with additional power draw. However I am going to end up having a Rigid SR2 light bar on a custom sized fold up light bar courtesy of DepHep. Im only going to use this light bar when my stereo is off. Or else I'm pretty sure my alternator wont be happy.

The reason I just wanted some D2's mounted in the Pro4x air dam is more for a decent amount of extra light that I can run WITH my sound system. Unlike the SR2, Id be pulling about 60watts/4amps with two D2s.... that power draw to output ratio is hard to beat.

Also it shouldn't be too expensive to do this, I can already get the air dam for a very reasonable price from a member here. My cousins own a steel shop in Texas so they can make me the brackets in exchange for a 24 pack... What I really need is better idea of how to do this cleanly.
 

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well. the stock lights, are held into place by 3 small screws. Those screws are screwed into a small metal cap that is lightly pressed onto a small post molded into the air damn itself. the issue i ran into is that the sheet metal and light were too heavy for those caps to hold when my X wasn't moving let alone having wind resistance and the weight of the light/ metal mounting bracket bouncing around as well

just some food for thought. if you want I can take a couple more pics of the sheet metal that I created but I am working untill 1830 tonight
 

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Be careful with that setup on the drephep, if you are in an area prone to hail you risk your lens getting smashed since it will be facing straight up when stowed. Just something to think about. Post pics when done, seems like a cool idea as long as you don't plan on carrying anything big on the roof, don't want it resting on the light bar...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
@maillet. Thanks for the info! That is important to remember. and yea the pictures would be greatly appreciated. Its kind of out there but maybe marine lumber and a thin sheet of metal in front or behind? Would have to make sure it can take the heat but I know people use it for sub boxes and other things on boats so should take the weather well and its sturdy.


@Pro4x. Yea actually I didn't think about that... It doesn't hail much here but my x is young and has a lot of the country to see :iconbiggrin: I'm hoping their light covers are strong. If so I live in VA and here we have to keep all the off road lights covered on road so most the time it would be pretty protected.


EDIT: Forgot to say, I'll definitely post some pictures up. Even if I do give up it might help the next person who tries.... but mine will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@Pro4x. Mines actually right around there. Seriously? Well that makes me feel better. Thats kind of shocking though. Not sure about fjs alternator but I'm guessing its around 110 amp. Leaving you with about 60ish? safely. Im no guru though so maybe I'm missing something. Does make me feel safer.

@Pro4xtreme. Yea I don't have any at the moment, should have. Not having any light dimming problems so I've been delaying it but as soon as I get some lights I will be.


Might go hid retrofit as well, seems like once you've had a car with hid you realize how blind you are with halogen.. anybody know any good hid retrofit kits? I'm not all that into the angel eye look.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@knightrider. Yea I do realize that. RMS isnt peak power though. Peak power would be a whole lot more than 2000watts. That being said I'm not going to be using the 70% power (typical rms % of power) so that is important to remember. I just don't really even want the risk of headlights dimming to the beat and/or my car dying... not hard to just jump it and keep going but its still a pain.


EDIT: Not sure where I got that 70% but i think thats correct.
 

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RMS is the root-mean-square value of a signal. For a sinusoidal waveform (pure tones) the root mean square value is equal to 1/sqrt(2) * peak = 0.707 * peak. If a sinewave on an oscilliscope has a peak at 1 V and a valley at -1 V, its RMS voltage is 0.707 V. The RMS value for any waveform can be calculated by recording the amplitude over a period of time at discrete intervals (sampling rate), then squaring the recorded values, taking their mean (average), and taking the square-root. The name RMS literally tells you how to calculate the value.

As for a 2000W sound system, you will only approach those levels when the system is really loud, or for very brief periods when a bass hit is required. Depending on the sensitivity of the speakers used, they can output 90 dB with 1 watt of power at 1 meter. Increasing the output to 93 dB will require another watt, and 96 dB requires three watts. When you combine two speakers together, each outputting 90 dB, their combined level is 93 dB.

What I am trying to say is that you can get great quality sound at enjoyable levels with much much less than 2000 Watts. What the 2000 Watts does give you however is sufficient headroom, so that when that huge bass note needs all that power, the amp can deliver it without distorting the sound (by clipping the amp).

If you want to rock out on the trail at night, go ahead, unless you plan on rocking out to 22 Hz test tones at 130 dB, you won't run out of alternator with a light bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
@samuel313. Thanks! lots of good info there. So you guys may be talking me out of the air dam... well see.

However I have grown to want some "in between" offroad lights. Meaning not as crazy as a big light bar but something that will help in the dark curvy country roads. I still like the idea of the dephep foldable bar. Keeps it a bit more low key, which I like, because in reality it wouldnt get used too too often.


So I have a few choices now while keeping in mind the SR2 on top:

1. Go ahead with the D2s in Air Dam.
2. Use something like XOSKEL LoPro and mount two or three SRQ2s on it.
3. D2s in bumper mouth? Im hesitant about this, not sure how much it would really help. Especially since the reason I want on roof is for going down hills.

Need to keep thinking.
 
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