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Discussion Starter #1
First, doug thorley catback.
Purchased from amazon.
Box was obliterated but catback was in perfect condition.

Install went semi smooth, was a pain getting the muffler section onto the merge pipe and hangers bolted up, required two ppl and alot of cussing.
The ubolt clamps it came with are garbage, i used stepped stainless band clamps and replaced the soft bolts with grade 8 and nuts.
The slip joints are fairly tight so minimal leaking even with out the clamps.
I pressed in high temp rtv into the slip joint and smeared it 1" on either side of the slip joint. Then used heavy duty aluminim foil folded into 3" wide by 12" long sections.
I used one folded section of foil and wrapped ot tightly around the pipe over the slip joint, then slipped on the band clamp and tightened it down.
This forms a perfect leak free gasket. I did this on all slip joints.
The hagers were aprox 1/2" to long at the merge pipe and 1" to long past the muffler, imcut and welded them back together.
This fixed a cronic exhaust leak between the passenger side exhaust manifold and the primary cat.
The exit pipe was aprox 10" to long, so i cut it off 3" from the miffler and welded on a slip fit 45* turn down tip.
Its tucked up uder the body nicely.

Sound is awesome with pacesetter cats.


Pacesetter cats, from rock auto.
Needed to replace all studs with grade 8 bolts.
Needed to surface the flanges as they were warped and are very soft metal.
I found some universal multilayer steel composite coated gaskets at orileys, with some work elongating the bolt holes they worked perfect and sealed up nicely.
Just besure to surface the Y pipe flages also to make sure everything seals tightly and doesnt warp.


PRG engine mounts.
Ordered from PRG.

Finish is awesome, bushings perfect, lower aluminum spacer is bad.
The spacer needs a raised section to support the lower spacer over the rubber vibration dampner that supports the engine mount.
This will stop the need to cut, grind or otherwise remove enough of the rubber isolator somthe aluminum spacer will sit flat on the lower bracket.

Istallation was a nightmare.
The aluminum spacers would slide all over causing the motor mount bolt to try and cross thread.
You must put you face under the mount, look up through the mount assembly with all the bolts loose, align it all up with a phillips screwdriver, then snug up the lower bracket to hold it all in place, then remove the screwdriver and check alignment.
Insert motor mount bolt and thread it in, then tighten the rest of the bolts.

Once installed they look fantastic.
Performance they are spectacular! Torquemto tires is greater due to not wasting torque lifting the engine during launches and acceleration.
Its immediatly noticable the first time you step on the gas pedal!
Vibration? At 650 rpm, there is some, its not crazy, but its definatly there.
At 750 rpm its silky smooth, no vibrations at all.


PRG front sway bar bushings.
Ordered from PRG.
Finish is good, they are just bar bushings.
Fitment is perfect.
Installation was someasy a caveman can do it. Just male sure your brackets are orientated propery.
Install the lower two bolts, slip the brackets over the bushimgs, lift the bar and slip the brackets onto the bolts.
Prvious owner had them on upside down, if they are orientated correctly you dont need to gold the bar up while i stalling the upper bolts. Its very easy and quick. Be sure to use ALL of the silicone grease inside and out of the mushing where it touches metal.

Performance is night and day difference when cornering.
The front end even feels smoother during normal straight line driving.

Cheap universal ebay intake tube.
Bought on ebay.lol

The tube was to short.
Had to cut it in half between the crank case tube and the curve to throttle body.
I cut one of the spacers down the middle and used one section at the throttle body connection and the other at the MAF connection.
The second silicone coupler i used as a connection where i cut the aluminum pipe in half.
I also used a entire can of high temp ceramic header paint inside and out of the tube.
When i find my left over header wrap, i will also wrap the pipe from the oem airbox all the way to the throttle body, overlapping 50%. Thos will reduce intake temps significantly.

The oem air box, i cut the tube inside the box back to 1" long at a 45* angle.
I use a oiled K&N filter with a filter sock on it to stop any MAF contamination.


Bullydog GT tuner.
Had from previous chevy teuck that received a proper tune.

Its set on performance with +4 timing advance,speed and rpm limits are stock.
WOT restriction is turned off.


All maintenance mods have been done, including trans cooler bypass.


Over all, these few minor mods have made a significant performance improvement and would have no problems advising anyone else to do the same.


I have a huge list of future mods.
So will update with them as they get done
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update for you guys.

I was recently asked for the part number for the gaskets i used on the exhaust.

Orileys EG 24685
$3.99ea

Use a carbide dremel bit and elongate the bolt holes towards the outside, use bad oem gasket as template.
Dont try to use a file, it will pull the gasket apart, ruining it.
This gasket can be re used once the old composite sealer is removed and replaced with copper spray.
The coposite sealer on these gaskets is super tacky, so if ya need, you can use two stacked, and they will seal perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Oo! Forgot three other mods i did.

IMS intake plenum spacer.
Bought during group buy from Extreme truck performance.
Fitment was perfect.

Install was simple as this was the third time the intake has been off and i got it mastered now.
During the tear down, i went ahead and cleaned out my plastic intake plenum, the lower aluminum plenum again, yes this engine has alot of oil blow by.
swapped from nickle to iridium plugs as this will be last time intake comes off until i buy a new upper and lower and have them ported and gasket matched.

Finish was perfect as expected from a cnc'd product.
Anodizing was good, no fish eyes or thin spots.



Catch can and vacuum chamber.
Catch can is a knock off from amazon.
Here is link:
Sporacingrts Compact Black Baffled 3-Port Oil Catch Can 2 Inlets 1 Outlet Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GSJWDF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_S21dBbFD9QAVC

Its very small, like half the size of a 12oz soda can.
Its built very well, it seals up noce and tight, but be sure to check the screws holding the baffle. Mine was loose, i cleaned it with berrymans b-12 to remove all of the shipping oil off of it, then blie lock tited it in place.

While this is not the best design out there, it seems tp work well so far, i wont know truely hpw well until i pill my upper plenum off again and check ports for oil.
I did how ever set it up with a oil drain/vacuum chamber/catch can oil resivour. Thos allows me almost infinate amount of time before needing to drain any oil from the catch can/vacuum chamber assembly.

What i did was use the bottom allen plug to block off one of the inlet ports.
I then used that inlet ports threaded barb fitting and screwed it into the bottom of the catch can.
I then used a 1/2" rubber fuel line to the vacuum chamber.
The vacuum chamber is made from 3" pvc fittings.
This is how its built.
I used a clean out fitting and its threaded cap for the top, then a 3" male-male coupler or pipe cut to 7" long and a standard 3" cap fpr the bottom.

The clean out cap has a square lug for a wrech to grab onto, i drill a hole for a 90* 1/2 bard to threaded brass fitting.
I then force threaded that fitting into the hole imdrilled on the clean out cap.
I sanded all of the parts with 2k grit paper and then assembled ot with pipe dope.
Thos creares a very large vacuum chamber.
Its placed just below and behind the drivers headlight, laying on its side.
The 1/2" hose is routed up along that big aluminum hard line up tomthe catch can which i have mounted on the firewall just to the left of the brake booster.
I also used 1/2" hose to connect the catch can tp the intake and a new pcv valve.
Being 1/2" it flows extremely well.
If one was to spend alil more on the vacuum chamber, you could use clear 3" pvc cut to 9" or more. To beable to see inside the chamber.
Maybe even installing a led inside to light it up.

For those of ya that dont know why a vacuum chamber is on a engine, it creates a vacuum resivour which helps to smooth out idle, operate any cavuum operated sensors or actuators inprove braking etc..
Just look to old school engines for further explanation.


Weather its placebo or it works, i cannot say, as i have not tested it with actuall guages or mpg, etc.
But i can say my idle is smoother and brakes feel stronger. Plus i have the benifit of basicaly never needing to drain my catch can.



Engine bay lighting.
16.5' 300smd 5050 5k led strip from amazon.
Custom fit and install

One strip cut to fit across hood by the latch.
One strip cut to fit under the lip on the firewall.

Everything is connected with JST plugs for easy install and replacement of the strips if they fail.
All wiring is hidden in oem wire looms.
On off switch is also on JST plug, mounted the the under hood relay box lid.

It lights up the entire engine bay like a football stadium!
Dont even need other light source to change oil at night.



Next is to install the delrin steering rack bushing from PRG that are on my bench right now and install a big ass trans cooler from a ford excursion thats hiding in my shop somewhere.

Yes as requested, i will get off my arse and post pics of everything.
 

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Thought about a build page, but as these are just basic bolt ons, i dont really consider it a "build".
Doesn't mean we don't like seeing them! Plus it'll be good for those who find the thread later while researching these mods.
 

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What would be great is each of these were in their own thread like they should be so people can search for them.

pics? links? prices? star rating?
This is also a very good point. It would be easier to search each product if what it was was in the title and you had pictures and a good write-up for each down the road.

What you might do is message a mod and see about having this moved into the Member's Xterra wrong format forum to begin your build thread and fix it up some, then do a nice write-up for each of these products. That would really benefit the forum as well as future users/shoppers and also get us another active build going, which I think everyone enjoys checking out as well.
 

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A simple piece of duct tape around the bushings on the engine mounts would've made things very simple. This is noted in the PRG engine mount installation thread. I also agree that you need pictures, a build thread, and a break out of each product.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I seen the duct tape method, but im stubborn sometimes and do things the hard way.
What really made it such a pain was i didnt pay enough attention to the alignment on the drivers side and cross threaded the big bolt in the upper mount assembly. So i had to take it all apart, remove that upper braket, order a new one, and install it, with the exhaust manifold still on.
Wasnt that hard, just made me mad as a red wasp due to that was the first bolt i have cross threaded in like 20 years.
 
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