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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, just going to let you know about my exhaust setup as there seems to have been an interest in it. So Here goes...

Current setup is like this:

Doug Thorley Shorty Headers -> Factory Primary Cats -> B-Pipes (prerunnerparts.com) -> DynoMax Y-Pipe -> Thrush Welded Muffler -> DynoMax Tailpipe

All 2.5" piping.

I modded my exhaust a little at a time, started with y-pipe, muffler and tail section...good gain; you can notice a little more pep. I also changed mufflers a bunch of times because I couldn't really get a good sound AND no drone, finally settled (for now) on the Thrush Welded. Then I did the DT Shorty headers, again, a little more pep with no noticeable change in sound. Finally I took the leap and went with the B-Pipes, which is why I'm writing this really. So here is my experience with the B-Pipes:

Considering I put anti-sieze on everything they bolts and nuts released with some help from an impact gun, I forgot to use anti-sieze when I put the y-pipe on and payed for it dearly, I spent about an hour cutting and grinding off the rusted seized bolts and nuts. Anyway, took me a couple hours only because I was looking for tools (I was at my parents house so I was using my old tool chest that I built up from other vehicles). So after all the fun of those bolts I took it out for a spin. Here is what I noticed from the new B-Pipes:

- Not significantly louder at idle, but nicer sound idle.
- Better low end torque
- A little bit more passing power on the highway (without mashing the gas) I have an Auto Trans, so what I mean is that you can give it some gas without making the AT downshift and it'll accelerate, sorta hard to explain.
- BETTER MPGs! So far it has increased about 1.5 mpg on average. And i just took a longer trip and I USUALLY average about 19 mpg, and this trip got me 21 mpg. My ScanGauge II maxed my avg while driving at 23, which has never happened prior to the install. And this is a route that is taken quite often because I have install work in Massachusetts every so often and it's really the only long driving trips I have to take at about 300 miles round trip.

- Now the bad...if you mash the gas like you're trying to test your 0-60 or something it is raspy as hell, but ONLY over 3000 RPMS, ONLY! You can mash it and stay under 3K RPMS and it'll never rasp.

- Maybe about 15 percent louder, but sounds like a vintage muscle car under normal driving.

- YOU WILL NOT THROW A CODE (I did throw a code [P0057] but that's because I broke the downstream driver side O2 heater element) Yes, the O2 sensors have heaters in them so they can get up to about 700 degrees Fahrenheit and get accurate readings.

If I missed anything, let me know. Feel free to ask me about my setup, I know how much of a pain in the butt it is to get a setup with minimal annoying drone.

Here's some crummy videos too lol.
http://youtu.be/OrMOU3kn2K8
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, no leaks. I get a weird sound when coming down off of a rev (at a standstill) which is just due to the higher flow. But no leaks. Maybe the people having issues are forgetting to take the copper ring off of the stock pipes and putting them on the new pipes.
 

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Sorry to jump in ask on somewhat old and short thread, but why the DynoMax Y-Pipe? Just the config or is this better than the stock?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I pieced the exhaust together, but knightrider is essentially right; I bought the y-pipe and the tailpipe separate and put in my own muffler. It's better than the stock pipe that is just two squished together pipes, but the bent pipe on the dynomax is a rough hole when it connects to the other side, still a lot better than stock though.
 
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