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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, my passenger Uni-ball is corroded and squeaking fairly bad so I'm gonna attempt this tomorrow just wondering how I should go about it.

Can't decide if it is either do purchase a C-clamp style Ball joint separator tool which will allow me to leave the Upper arm connected, or if I should go all out and buy a shop press which will involve having to remove the upper arm.

I should add that I don't have a garage yet so I would like to avoid buying the shop press unless I really need to.
This video from Camburg makes it look extremely easy although I know that it won't go anywhere near this smooth.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGb4RKQ-o6Y
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Everything else should be good the arms are only a year old. Reason the uni-ball is done is because I sprayed them with some stuff I shouldn't have which took off the teflon coating.

Greg had mentioned that it should be fairly easy to just tap in the new bearing with a mini sledge and that pressing them in isn't necessary and that they will want to go in uneven.....so I may try that route.

Hopefully someone else has changed these and can chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update

So I am confident in agreeing with Greg that tapping these things in and out are the easiest way. I just had my brother stand on the arms (no vice) and I used a 36mm socket with a mini sledge.

Hit the old ones out from the top out the bottom, reverse order for install, I also had the new bearing in the freezer for a few hours before and lubed it up along with the upper arm cup with some bearing grease.
 

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So I am confident in agreeing with Greg that tapping these things in and out are the easiest way. I just had my brother stand on the arms (no vice) and I used a 36mm socket with a mini sledge.



Hit the old ones out from the top out the bottom, reverse order for install, I also had the new bearing in the freezer for a few hours before and lubed it up along with the upper arm cup with some bearing grease.

Shame you couldn't do it without removing the arms.


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What'd you spray it with that made it bad?

Also, can this same process be used for the uniballs that hold the UCA to the frame? Mine are extremely rusted for being on a year and a half.
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What'd you spray it with that made it bad?

Also, can this same process be used for the uniballs that hold the UCA to the frame? Mine are extremely rusted for being on a year and a half.
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No, the part of the UCA that connect to the frame brackets are heims joints, not uniballs. They are not rebuildable, they are meant to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I went to summit racing, I would hold off. Steady and I found a shop that is making us a sealed one similar to the SPC one. I'll be getting them back in the next day.
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I went to summit racing, I would hold off. Steady and I found a shop that is making us a sealed one similar to the SPC one. I'll be getting them back in the next day.
Really like the sound of this ... staying tuned; but please do report back on cost, contact info, etc ... assuming it works out. Also, if they have multiple sizes (Xterra width arms and Titan width arms, at least from PRG, use different spherical bearing sizes), that would be great to know.

Good on you guys for looking into that!
 

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We will let you guys know. and he does have both size bearings.

He should be able to accept orders over the phone as he does have a huge online store for parts. I'm sure he ships to the us all the time. And I did tell.him that he is gonna have a lot of orders if this works out

If for some reason he does not ship, I'll be the middle man and get them to you guys and not looking to make a dime

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I broke one of those Autozone ball joint presses trying to get mine out. Had to take it to my friend's autobody shop to use his huge press to get the job done. Sounded like a bomb went off when they finally broke free.
 
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