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Replaced an O2 Sensor, but still Getting some Check Engine Codes - Looking for Advice...

1019 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ruppehunter
Background Info:
Newbie here coming from the Frontier forum. I bought a 2012 Xterra for a great price a few weeks ago that needed some cleaning up & seemingly small work. One of the main things I wanted to fix was the check engine light, so I had the codes ran before buying, and got the following: P1148 (seemed like the "main" code), P1168, P0031, P0051, U1000. I decided it was such a good price I'd go ahead & take it, hoping it would be a simple O2 sensor fix. I just replaced the bank 1 sensor 1 today (or whichever one is behind the passenger front fender liner), cleared the codes, and they came right back. This time it seems to give P1168 as more of the "main" code, but it's still throwing all of the others as well except for U1000, but maybe that's because I'm using a cheap reader I've got, instead of the AutoZone one I used before buying... Not sure.

Looking for Advice:
I've done some research, and it seems like P1168 would be the bank 2 sensor 1, but I'm curious if anyone out there has dealt with something similar before, and if they think it's more likely the cats needing replaced? I spent about $115 on the first sensor, so they're not exactly cheap, and I don't want to spend the time and money replacing another if it's most likely the cats giving the issue. The fact I'm still getting a P1148 code is what's concerning me most. If there's anyone out there with advice on this subject I'd really appreciate it!

Vehicles Specs:
2012 Nissan Xterra S
4.0 V6
Seems to run great. Haven't noticed any hiccups transmission or engine wise... other than the codes :(

------------ UPDATE ------------

After taking it to my mechanic (thinking there was an electrical issue), they immediately recommended changing the bank 2 (driver side) O2 sensor. They quoted me $260 in labor to replace it, and I thought that was insanity, so I paid the diagnostic fee and took it home to do myself. Got it switched out today and so far it seems to be clear! Very strange that both of the sensors were bad at the same time, but I guess it's possible they went bad at different times and they've just been ignored... Who knows. I've only done a short test drive so far, so it's possible it'll be back after an actual drive, but it was coming back immediately before so I'm having a little more confidence this time. I'll update here if anything changes.

Thanks to everyone who helped me on this!
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Just checked the fuse and it looks totally fine... Was really hoping that was going to be it lol.
No.... use a meter and check it. "Looks fine" doesn't mean a thing.
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I thought you could always just check them like this?
View attachment 150090
Not always because it may break (blow) at the far end and might be just a hairline type break.

Many a time, troubleshooting an electronics problem, the fuse(s) looked good but in reality they were the cause of the problem. I learned to always use a meter to check continuity of a fuse, it will save time in the long run.
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