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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My 2014 P4X has about 65k miles on it and I'm about ready to replace the stock suspension components. Just did all new brakes & will be installing front hubs (preventative for hubs) and saw that my shockbodies are almost rusted through. I live in NY and we get salt, so no surprise. My X is my DD and I do occasionally use it for towing and minor off-roading. I eventually want to get into overlanding and back to camping, but never see myself as a dedicated crawler, so while I am always tempted by the TS, it's not realistic for a 95% DD car.

Xterra currently has 33" duratracs, White Knuckle Sliders and a Maxterra bumper (no tire carrier). Timbren bump stops front & rear. I eventually plan to upgrade to a rear tire carrier bumper (few years out), front bumper (torn between shrock w/ hoops or hefty aluminum), winch and aluminum skids. May add lights and a lightweight rack in the future. I am shooting for a ~2" lift, don't think I need/want more; I would like to maintain good ride quality while slightly increasing my travel.

My pre-purchase list is as follows:
Front:

Bilstein 6112 coilovers (PRG or Nisstec)
Custom Eibach 550-600lb springs - 14" x 3"? (still need to find best source)
2" Top Spacer (PRG)
Strut mount & top spacers? (Rockauto)
Mevotech UCA (PRG)
UCA Bolts
Mevotech or Moog LCA (Rockauto)
Cam Bolts
LCA Bolts
New Tie Rod Ends (Rockauto)
F&R SS brakelines (TBD)
Replacement Swaybar endlinks (Rockauto)
*Check steering Bellows for tears
*Check CV's for tears/holes

Rear:
5165 (PRG/Nisstec) - Don't know length to order yet?
Custom Alcan Leaf pack 2"/300-399lbs (Nisstec) - Assuming this will settle (while front will maintain 2") would it be better to set a 1" shackle height or get 3" lift. Will 300-399 be too rough for daily driving?
Adjustable shackles (PRG)
U-bolt flip kit (PRG)
Shock Skids (Nisstec)
Steel shims (Nisstec) 2.5 degree? 3 degree?** see discussion below
Swaybar delete

What else should I replace at the same time? I believe I will have replaced the majority of the suspension & steering components. Is it worth replacing the CV axles when I replace the hubs? Are the rear shims enough, or should I look into getting a custom driveshaft? I have not done as much research on the driveshaft yet; is this something that's overkill for a 2" lift? I see there are some potential shortfalls with the stock design but I cant afford to have the truck out of commission for more than a weekend. Is the Nisstec custom driveshaft recommended?

Lastly, how would you all rate the above components? Please let me know if there is anything I should reconsider or if you would advise against the added weight springs, etc. I plan to aquire parts over the next couple months and do the upgrades in the springs when it's warmer in the garage.

Thanks!
 

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Look at Rocky-road.com. I'm getting the Old Man Emu 2in kit. Way cheaper than Nisstec and they ancered all my questions.
 

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I’m in the N.Y. capital district and the dampers on my 08/S with 78k miles are so heavily rusted that the metal is flaking off. So although they are working perfectly, I am going to change them out as soon as the weather warms up (Bilstein 4600s). I am staying with the stock springs (no sag front or rear) so no advice on your planned upgrades.
 

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The cam bolts replace the lower control arm bolts, no need to buy both.
Look at the sway bar bushings, my fronts were toast when everything else was still good. Well everything except the shocks. 6112 and 5165 were a good choice for me. I'm stock and just used the coils provided with the 6112 and am happy with them.
Daily driver and tow? I would recommend keeping the rear sway bar. Sway bar delete is better for a dedicated crawler that you say you are not going that way.
 

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Your plan is pretty much where I ended up. I started with the basics and made modifications as necessary. I am using the springs delivered with the 6112s. You will be happy with the 2" spacer lift (1" thick spacer) versus pre-loading the fronts. I started with a smaller spacer and used pre-load for the other inch and found that I didn't have enough droop. I like it better (off road) with the larger spacer. I used the same UCAs; cam bolts were necessary to get the front end aligned. I also added shims to eliminate the vibration. I installed a single AAL to buy some time and it seems to be working well. I am happy with the PRG shackles and u-bolt flip kit. With this set up, I found that my X didn't drive well with the rear sway bar connected. You don'at have to commit right away. You could leave it on at first and disconnect / reconnect one side to see which way you like it better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies all. I am also located in the capital district (NY) area and rust has also eaten my 4600's. This is the primary reason I will not use heim joints or painted shockbodies. I do utilize Fluid Film once per year which has helped a lot, but never on my suspension components.

I will look into the energy suspension swaybar bushings and new end links, it should firm things up and reduce rattles if nothing else. I would love to fab up quick disconnects for the swaybars, but will need to do more research to make it reliable. I definitely want to maintain a front swaybar; and you're right in that a rear one will make the truck handle better onroad. With my little kids, safer is better. I'd like to have the best of both worlds!

Since I plan to put on a bumper and winch and I have sliders, etc. I was thinking a would need heavier springs, front and rear. Where's the best place to buy these reasonably? I could not find the model type I would need for the Bilstein 6112 or 5165.
 
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