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As winter comes down upon us here in the north east, I start to wonder about recovery points and all the things that go with that. I am looking to get an ARB snatch strap, but my question is where to connect it in the back...there are no hooks. I have an idea of how to do it and i have the spare parts lying around so let me know what you think.

I have the tow package, and I have an extra 2in reciever with no ball on it. my thoughts were I could get a shackel and put it in the hole where the ball should be and then I would have a recovery point on the back of the x... it this a good or bad idea?!?!? let me know
 

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http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/shackle.shtml

I use one similar to this, as well as some others on this site, as it is were I got the idea from. I purchased mine from a Tractor Supply Company store, I think I paid $35. Fits right in the in the receiver hitch. I also put one of the Master lock Hitch Pins so that at least the bar portion would remain with the truck, no one has stolen the shackle yet though.
 

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At a minimum (and it works perfectly), you can run the pin in your tow hitch through the strap-end. Costs you nothing but the strap.
 

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DBAX said:
At a minimum (and it works perfectly), you can run the pin in your tow hitch through the strap-end. Costs you nothing but the strap.
I've pulled many out using this method and haven't had any problems or issues.
 

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i never thought about that....thanks guys I think ill just use the hitch pin.....arb strap here i come
 

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soo true...now if i only had a million $$$$ then i could do everthing this board mentions
 

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DBAX said:
At a minimum (and it works perfectly), you can run the pin in your tow hitch through the strap-end. Costs you nothing but the strap.
Yes, this is a good approach. The class III hitch is a good recovery point. Using a pin as described above is also much better than using a ball: A pin is less likely to snap and turn into a flying object. That's the setup that I use. Here is a tip for you, install the pin into the receiver permanently and then secure it by a small good lock. That way you won't lose it and nobody is going to have enough motivation to steal it.
 

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Never pull from a ball or even a ball hitch adapter.

If you are using a receiver hitch as a recovery point, try to limit how hard you yank someone. Try just pulling them first. The hitch is rated at 5000lbs with a direct pull. A stock X already weighs over 4000lbs. Yanking will generate a lot more than 5000lbs. Just keep this in mind.

No recovery is perfectly safe. A lot of bad things can happen. Keep people away and think about what you are doing.

And I'll take this time on the soapbox to also stress, do not use tow straps with metal hooks.
 

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You mean this is a better idea than welding D-ring tabs to the stock bumper? Who would've known...LOL! I'm gonna get one of those hitch D-rings soon, they look cool.
 

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I've seen one on this site that had the shackle covered in vinyl, wcan't find it anywhere.
 

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I'm not sure what the rating is for or how they rate it, but I did pull about 10 18 wheelers about 100 ft each using a hitch and I know they all weighed in between 30 K and 80 K lbs. They were stuck in the snow at the flying J in Sunbury, and not one would believe I could do that. Yea it's rated at 5K lbs, but I can assure you it will do a lot more than that. I believe they are rating it as an equalizing hitch that way as when the bars are loaded it creates a downward pressure to toss the rear weight on the front wheels. Just to pull off of it, it's pretty stout. I'd go with the number of bolts and the rating of the grade of those bolts and go with that figure. Whatever that is. Way more than 5K lbs. I have only seen a hitch bend when my brother in law was backing a bulldozer on a trailer and he jack-knifed it. I have a picture of it, that hitch still tows today.

I think if you hook it with a strap like has been said is the proper was (Using the pin) your strap would break way before you would get any damage to a hitch receiver.
 

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CSE Offroad has a nice, basic "recovery package" with bag for $70. I ordered one Sunday and should be getting it soon.

http://www.cseoffroad.com/wireki.html

(1) 2" x 30' Nylon Recovery strap.(Rated 20,000 lb)
(1) 3/4" shackle (4.75 TON WLL)
(1) Receiver Shackle Bracket with 3/4" Shackle
(1) 15" wide-mouth Gear Bag, heavy-duty nylon zipper, outer pockets, and hard fiber floor.

Not bad for the price...I'm still going to add a Walmart 12K/15ft braided with hooks for light duty yanks.
 

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DO NOT! I REPEAT...DO NOT USE A TOW STRAP WITH METAL HOOKS!!!!!!!!

This is dangerous for you and the people around you. Also, you are going to want a strap with a bare minimum of 20K lb capacity for yanking (I feel safer with a 30K lb strap).

Also, do not use chains for vehicle to vehicle recovery.
 

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Muzikman said:
DO NOT! I REPEAT...DO NOT USE A TOW STRAP WITH METAL HOOKS!!!!!!!!

This is dangerous for you and the people around you. Also, you are going to want a strap with a bare minimum of 20K lb capacity for yanking (I feel safer with a 30K lb strap).

Also, do not use chains for vehicle to vehicle recovery.
MM...I hear you but we've all used (without incident) the smaller/shorter braided w/hooks lines before (if you're a 40-something). I know their breaking point and I know the ramifications if that line were to 'snap'. However...we all know that the majority of cars being helped out in a good-samaritan event are often only "glued to the curb" or in a bank after a snowfall.

These same cars (and my wife drives an Accord) don't have D-rings and/or hooks-points. A loop-ended strap with a D-ring only helps if I want to tie around the flimsy axles or something else worthless on her car. A hook on the line is often the only reasonable and quick, especially with 'butt-cold' conditions exist and when hooking up to a frame rail. Potentially dangerous? yes. Realistically dangerous in the situations where I'd use them, probably not...

Most of us have used them without incident in spite of the hype. They're appropriate for a lot of small "yanks".

I wouldn't use a hooked 12K line for pulling someone out of the ditch or out of the mud. Pulling an Accord off the curb in 10" of snow with the driver having the car in "Drive" is another story. Just my .02, but thanks.
 

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If hooks on tow ropes / straps are so unsafe, then why does every winch I have ever seen have a hook on the end?

I think a distinction has to be made between snatching (yanking) a vehicle and towing (pulling) a vehicle.

Personally, I have pulled many people out of stuck situations with my tow strap with hooks. The highway department I worked for when i was in college used tow chains to pull snow plows (10-wheel dump trucks) out of ditches. Never once did I ever see or hear about a chain breaking or a hook flying off.

Snatching (yanking) a vehicle is much more dangerous. In this case, I would suggest using an appropriate snatch strap (sometimes called a recovery strap).
 
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