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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In conjunction with my upcoming Titan Swap, I'd like to do justice to the rear end too! : )
Current set-up: full length MINI PACK AAL , 5125 Bils 3-5" length, PRG shim kit

Questions:
•Is there really a point in having super long shocks? I figure the leaf packs only droop/flex soo much
•Is shock relocation really beneficial or the ideal rear suspension configuration?
•In any event, does a longer drive shaft have to be apart of the equation? if so features I should look for?
•What shock would be recommended to give a good ride but plenty of travel, with or without relocation? I was thinking 7100's
•Does an aftermarket leaf pack really add much to travel or does it more help with weight handling?

Thanks guys!
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In conjunction with my upcoming Titan Swap, I'd like to do justice to the rear end too! : )
Current set-up: full length MINI PACK AAL , 5125 Bils 3-5" length, PRG shim kit

Questions:
•Is there really a point in having super long shocks? I figure the leaf packs only droop/flex soo much
•Is shock relocation really beneficial or the ideal rear suspension configuration?
•In any event, does a longer drive shaft have to be apart of the equation? if so features I should look for?
•What shock would be recommended to give a good ride but plenty of travel, with or without relocation? I was thinking 7100's
•Does an aftermarket leaf pack really add much to travel or does it more help with weight handling?

Thanks guys!
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It depends what you're doing with the leaf springs. Are you planning on doing a different set or keeping it the same?

Longer shocks are pointless if your travel is restricted by the leaf packs.

Doing the shock relocation is pointless unless you're running longer shocks but check out NixX. Nick relocated his shocks (7100 short bodies) and is getting a lot of travel out of his well put together leaf pack/shackle setup.

If you're wanting travel, you can have a spring pack made with a lot of free arch. That means the springs would be super soft and would sag a lot with tons of weight.

You won't really need a longer driveshaft unless you have 5+" of lift but you'll have vibrations with having more lift which is why all these guys have double cardan ds's made.

There are tons of different ways to do this... I was getting a little over 12" of travel with my 3" Alcans (they're super soft) and the PRG shackles. That much travel with only 3.5-4" of lift kicks ass...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Forgot to mention, I have PRG shackles.
I'm willing to do Alcans, I don't have a problem relocating the shocks within reason... Probably a relocation bar and lower mounts with a 12-14" shock.
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Forgot to mention, I have PRG shackles.
I'm willing to do Alcans, I don't have a problem relocating the shocks within reason... Probably a relocation bar and lower mounts with a 12-14" shock.
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You would really like that setup. Make sure you ditch those stock lower mounts because they hang down there pretty far. Move the upper mounts up a bit, and the lower ones closer to the axle and then get a shock that fits your travel numbers accordingly. Can't really go wrong with that, and it would kick ass. Just be super specific with the Alcan's that way your leaf springs don't end up being way too soft only giving you a little over an inch of lift... Not sure what happened or how but that's what happened to mine :scratch:
 

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If you can properly relocate your shocks and your shocks are valved right you can gain an extra 1"-1.5" over a 4" pack. I have my set up ready just no time and its freezing in colorado. But with a flip kit and /\ style shock set up you can add alot. I dont have my spec sheet in front of me or my drawings but Ive done alot of research on this with other offroad shops here like rockrash engineering. Its not all about down travel you need an equal amount of up travel to have a awesome ride that doesn't sway. || your straight up shock relocation is alright but limits the benefits of what you can achieve. Sure with a bilstien short body shock you allow room for a bigger shaft length but Im unaware of the set up on the shocks to allow you the right decompression and compression for travel. If you get further into it and have more detail on what you want to truly accomplish like is it for travel only? quality ride plus travel etc..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you can properly relocate your shocks and your shocks are valved right you can gain an extra 1"-1.5" over a 4" pack. I have my set up ready just no time and its freezing in colorado. But with a flip kit and /\ style shock set up you can add alot. I dont have my spec sheet in front of me or my drawings but Ive done alot of research on this with other offroad shops here like rockrash engineering. Its not all about down travel you need an equal amount of up travel to have a awesome ride that doesn't sway. || your straight up shock relocation is alright but limits the benefits of what you can achieve. Sure with a bilstien short body shock you allow room for a bigger shaft length but Im unaware of the set up on the shocks to allow you the right decompression and compression for travel. If you get further into it and have more detail on what you want to truly accomplish like is it for travel only? quality ride plus travel etc..
Its not all about travel. It's more about quality ride plus reasonable travel. When you say flip kit, your talking ubolt flip?
 

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Its not all about travel. It's more about quality ride plus reasonable travel. When you say flip kit, your talking ubolt flip?
Well for quailty and travel id go this route however it might sway a little. I really dont have all the shock specs in front on me but properly valved rads help alot. If i where you a simple set up is a new cross frame shock mount raised a little higher to allow more shock shaft room for a better ride.

Example of shock placement

This is obviously a leaf over axel as ours is not but by doing the flip kit you'll be able to mount the shocks closer to the down point of travel of the leafs thus not needing a super soft pack as the shock will be a form of constant pressure on the axel. Now the trick is mounting the shock to allow movement.

The rads come with a lower ball joint heim so it allows it to rotate. For me ill be installing the shock side ways so the ball joint can twist up and down in junction with the way the axel raises and lowers but remeber my shock points arnt || they will be /\ so yours will vary you just have to look at it. But with enough shock shaft showing due to the new higher location the ride will increase with proper length shocks.

Hopefully this is all making sense
 

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I'm all for relocating shocks to gain as much wheel travel as possible. However, with that being said, I'm not sure I'm convinced that it's worth it.

I personally have gone over every possible set up in my head multiple times, and what would need to be done to achieve them, and the more I do that, the more I want to just leave the X the way it came from the factory (IFS, Spring Under Axle, staggered rear shocks, etc.).

A lot of guys do the custom stuff and are successful, but it has to be done right, or you will mess up your ride and be pissed. Not to mention it may take a few trials to get it dialed in the way you want it. Suspension geometry is nothing to play with, and I'd be willing to bet that Nissan knows more about it than we do. Granted, a lot more than just that goes into their design, but by the time you're done figuring everything out you're just going to want to drive your truck, and you may or may not be able to depending on how hard you tear into it.

Not saying that you won't gain any extra travel or benefit out of these custom set ups, because as stated before many guys have proven that you can. I just feel that the X will perform most efficiently on the suspension platform it was designed on. So why not just maximize that and enjoy the combination of wonderful ride quality as well as off road/overlanding capability?

Sorry for rambling. I guess the point I've been trying to make is that when I did my Titan Swap I went with 3" Alcans and your average 3-5" of lift Radflo, and it has never once felt anything even close to inadequate or not enough. It's seen 8+ hours of driving multiple times, been off road in all sorts of places, ran hard blues and a few blacks at Rausch and then drove it 4+ hours home, with no problem.

I personally think you'd be saving yourself a ton of time and effort, and some extra coin, while still being more than satisfied with your set up, by just keeping it simple! At least for the time being. This is all just my opinion.
 

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I'm all for relocating shocks to gain as much wheel travel as possible. However, with that being said, I'm not sure I'm convinced that it's worth it.

I personally have gone over every possible set up in my head multiple times, and what would need to be done to achieve them, and the more I do that, the more I want to just leave the X the way it came from the factory (IFS, Spring Under Axle, staggered rear shocks, etc.).

A lot of guys do the custom stuff and are successful, but it has to be done right, or you will mess up your ride and be pissed. Not to mention it may take a few trials to get it dialed in the way you want it. Suspension geometry is nothing to play with, and I'd be willing to bet that Nissan knows more about it than we do. Granted, a lot more than just that goes into their design, but by the time you're done figuring everything out you're just going to want to drive your truck, and you may or may not be able to depending on how hard you tear into it.

Not saying that you won't gain any extra travel or benefit out of these custom set ups, because as stated before many guys have proven that you can. I just feel that the X will perform most efficiently on the suspension platform it was designed on. So why not just maximize that and enjoy the combination of wonderful ride quality as well as off road/overlanding capability?

Sorry for rambling. I guess the point I've been trying to make is that when I did my Titan Swap I went with 3" Alcans and your average 3-5" of lift Radflo, and it has never once felt anything even close to inadequate or not enough. It's seen 8+ hours of driving multiple times, been off road in all sorts of places, ran hard blues and a few blacks at Rausch and then drove it 4+ hours home, with no problem.

I personally think you'd be saving yourself a ton of time and effort, and some extra coin, while still being more than satisfied with your set up, by just keeping it simple! At least for the time being. This is all just my opinion.

Ill just change your mind when you get out here in colorado and i have mine all finished lol

But your right I have spent alot of time on this and it will be done right the first time. I need this mod because will everything is just beat up and im currently running improper lengthen rads that are just rebuilt and i don't want new shocks. Since I can do all of this it wont cost me nearly as much.
 

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Ill just change your mind when you get out here in colorado and i have mine all finished lol

But your right I have spent alot of time on this and it will be done right the first time. I need this mod because will everything is just beat up and im currently running improper lengthen rads that are just rebuilt and i don't want new shocks. Since I can do all of this it wont cost me nearly as much.
Hah you're probably right! Definitely interested to see how it comes out.
 

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Hah you're probably right! Definitely interested to see how it comes out.
Ya i have all the material just need to build the cross bar add shock tabs and make lower sock tabs. Need a few more tools that will surve further purpose in more builds so I dont count it but ill be tapped after final payment on the m205 locker so its on the back burner till spring :crybaby:
 

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The problem with the 3"-5" lift class shocks is they are too long when fully compressed to allow the axle to fully stuff. This causes problems (not enough up travel) if you have less than a 3" lift.

The advantage of well set up shocks (7100 shorties, shock relocation) is you gain the extra droop and maintain full stuff, yeilding more overall travel. You can think of it as a 0"-5" lift shock.

My setup is relocated 12" 7100 short bodies, OME MD leaf packs (I took out the HD leaf) and adjustable shackles on the 2" (highest) setting. I am not getting full droop out of the shocks with this setup, well, at least when flexing it. I haven't got a chance to jack up the entire back end and see what it droops to. When flexing it the drooped tire shock is only showing about 10" of shaft. I am uncertain whether I'm limited by the lifted end of the axle or the total droop of the leafs. I'll make time to figure that out before I upgrade it.

If the OME leaf packs are holding me back that means you'll need Alcans to optimize the setup. If the leafs are limiting the droop through limited articulation it's because they are binding and the jonny joint spring eyes are the solution. Deaver sells them, although they aren't posted on their website anymore. They called them "Baja Bushings." The downside to the jonny joints are they add some side to side softness to the axle. The more arch in the springs at ride height the worse it will be. I have no expeiince with them so I can't comment on how that feels from behind the steering wheel.

On the 7100s I didn't add a cross bar. I mimicked the stock mounts. In essence, drill a hole through the frame, run a bolt through it and weld it in place. I tried to keep the stock shock angle, just moved it farther up and back. I also flipped the passenger side from front to back. You could probably get away with 10" 7100's in the stock locations. You'd just have to switch out bolt sizes on the lower mounts.

I ordered the valving at 180/75 because I was planning on running the stiff HD OME springs. Now that I ended up with the MD springs I thing the next stiffer setting, 255/70 would have been a bit better. I've got a fair amount of body roll. On the other hand I run without either sway bar, so thats expected.
 

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The problem with the 3"-5" lift class shocks is they are too long when fully compressed to allow the axle to fully stuff. This causes problems (not enough up travel) if you have less than a 3" lift.

I will just second this. I sit at almost exactly 3 inches of lift and my 3-5" radflos have seriously limited my up travel. If i could go back I would get the 0-3 inch lift shocks in a heartbeat.
 

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BullDozer, ultimately it will come down to how much time/effort/money you want to put into it. If you're looking for more travel(ride quality comes with it IMO) and are being limited by the stock mounting positions of the shocks, and are willing to put that much extra effort into getting a few more inches of travel then do it. But if you are content with having a few inches less(if that) of travel and don't want to mess with it then save yourself the trouble and have Greg help you get a "bitchin" shock that will perform to your needs without needing to relocate your shocks. There are only a handful of guys on here that have relocated their shocks for whatever reason, yet the rest of the guys have let it be and haven't seemed to really be disappointed with their setups. It all comes down to whether or not you feel it's worth it.
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It seems to me, I need to figure out what I'm going to do with the leaf pack first and then decide how far I want to go. Might just go with the OME medium duty.
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Jeff,

that would be my recomendation... the OME and PRG shackles work really well together on my X. i'm running the OME shocks with my newest suspension project and i'm not really impressed.

i had really good luck with the 10" fox remote resivoirs in the rear a few years ago with my 2nd TS. granted the fox shocks required new upper poly bushings to fit the stock mounting post and new lower uni's and adapters to fit the lower location. my suggestion is go with either the 7100 shorty shocks or the fox shocks in the stock location.

T
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks like I'm going to go with the OME HD leaf packs and just some PRG valved Radflos.... If I can get a hold of Greg.

Crazy Question! Anyone made a bastard pack with a AAL and the OME Packs? Seems like a crazy Idea , I know... Just curious!
 
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