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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so im my quest to ditch my rusty trailer hitch I was determined to figure out some way to make a rear recovery point mounted to one of the frame rails. So, this is what I came up with. It looks good! my only concern is actually the proximity to the rear shackle. I have to test how much the rear can compress on that side before it would push the shackle back far enough to contact the hook.

I tried to use a aftermarket front tow hook on the rear but it was too large to fit well and would have been too close to the shackle im sure.

anyone got pics of the driver side rear shackle when basically fully stuffed? what do y'all think?

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Did you just drill some holes in the bottom of the frame? Not sure I'd trust that and you don't want to be anywhere near it if it fails. Also, what grade of bolts are those?

My $.02... I'd get a new hitch and a receiver mount for a shackle, or if you don't want the hitch then something like these:


Be safe out there!
 

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I don't have any pics that show shackle movement... but i don't think its possible for it to move anywhere NEAR enough to contact that hook.

With that said... I'm not a HUGE fan of the added leverage from a huge that hangs so much lower than the frame. I'd rather something as short as possible, that still cleared the bumper.
If I were wheeling with that, I'd be smashing that hook on rocks too. I've had the shackles hit coming off ledges, and I'd think that hook might have just anchored me to the ledge (well, at least dragged HEAVILY)
 

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This is the best shot I have of the rear stuffed... with 2in lift shackles and stock springs.

20170121_085828.jpg 20170121_085850.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you just drill some holes in the bottom of the frame? Not sure I'd trust that and you don't want to be anywhere near it if it fails. Also, what grade of bolts are those?

My $.02... I'd get a new hitch and a receiver mount for a shackle, or if you don't want the hitch then something like these:


Be safe out there!
Yes, I drilled holes in the frame. its mounted almost exactly the same as how the front tow hook is from the factory, so why would be be good on the front but not on the rear?. this is also the same way that most aftermarket hooks mount.

and yes, I do need to make sure i get better bolts before using it, this was just mocked up to see how it fit.


I don't have any pics that show shackle movement... but i don't think its possible for it to move anywhere NEAR enough to contact that hook.



With that said... I'm not a HUGE fan of the added leverage from a huge that hangs so much lower than the frame. I'd rather something as short as possible, that still cleared the bumper.
If I were wheeling with that, I'd be smashing that hook on rocks too. I've had the shackles hit coming off ledges, and I'd think that hook might have just anchored me to the ledge (well, at least dragged HEAVILY)
thanks, with the pics posted above I also dont see how it could be an issue.

Again, it works on the front why wouldnt it work on the back? and maybe your right about the clearance, but the way I see it with this set up I have wayy better clearance than with the hitch mounted??
 

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Yes, I drilled holes in the frame. its mounted almost exactly the same as how the front tow hook is from the factory, so why would be be good on the front but not on the rear?. this is also the same way that most aftermarket hooks mount.

and yes, I do need to make sure i get better bolts before using it, this was just mocked up to see how it fit.
The simple answer is that I don't know if it's safe or unsafe, because I'm not qualified to determine that. I'm just some random guy on the internet, not an automotive engineer.

Most of the aftermarket rear recovery points I've seen are like the link I posted... I haven't seen any that mount to the bottom of the frame like that, but they could be out there. As far as what's different, just looking at it there's some different angles involved, and I honestly have no idea if the front of the frame is more reinforced in that area than the rear.

FWIW I ditched my single front tow hook in favor of two points that I intend to use a bridle and shackles with if I ever need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I THINK, that for alight tug, it would be ok, If im buried axles deep or really stuck on some heavy rocks, it may not be sufficient, but I dont plan on getting into those positions either!

I dont plan to use it often!
 

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+1 for the ingenuity, but agree you should only rely on it for equal to or less than the original front setup
 

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I just think it provides an additional amount of leverage because its so long (hanging down)... but it does up front too. Up front, it's needed to get down below the bumper. In the back, a hook that's higher up would still clear and wouldn't have the extra leverage. As for frame thickness, reinforcement, I have no idea. Maybe put a plate inside the frame to spready the load? Best would be a bolt through the top of the frame too, but you'd need a tube so you don't just crush the frame.

Like you said... you don't plan to yank on it much. But I think most of us just assume that when the situation arises... we end up doing it anyways lol.

Yes, the rear drop hitch is HORRIBLE for clearance. That was the reason I got a plate bumper with a built in hitch... easy 6in of clearance. BUT... it all depends on what wheeling you do. If you're not taking 1.5ft straight drops... you'll be fine.

With that said... I tried searching for a better hook (I had one on my old truck), but most seem like decoration, not function, or overly simplified and small enough to just bolt to the top of a jeep bumper... but wouldn't hand down the couple inches you need to keep the straight off the bumper's edge.
 
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Hook looks convenient but for strength you want a thick complete round attachment for a shackle. Even on a winch, that is stronger setup.

The weakest spot will break first, could be this hook, could be the bolt, could be something else bent. Some “tow” hooks only work for being pulled by a tow truck onto its bed and they prefer frame/wheel attachments anyway.

I would trust a rated shackle mount instead, with a thick rated bolt and at a good angle without tow cable rubbing on other car parts.

As is, step back and cautiously watch for issues, but I wouldn’t want it, when being towed you don’t have full control over others’ poor choices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I appreciate the discussion!

but i just cant help but going back to, this is mounted exactly the same way as it is on the front, and I dont see many people saying that they arent strong enough or not sufficient to be pulled on, I know ive yanked it hard a good few times..

maybe putting an addition bar inside the frame rail would be better.

also FWIW the aftermarket recovery point i got mounts the exact same way, drill 2 holes in the frame an mount with bolts..


*NOTE XTERRA owners--- You can drill your REAR frame and bolt these in place. WE DO NOT PROVIDE ALL hardware for this application. You will need to source your own grade 10.9 nuts and washers for the provided M12 bolts. This requires removal of your stock rear bumper to install.
 
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