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Rear Locker ((Flashing)) M226

406 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  mark636, 
M
My 2015 Pro rear locker is engaging I believe but dash light is flashing periodically when engaged. I did a fluid flush but as expected not a fix. I was looking to replace the rear locking solenoid switch. I previously found a chat where someone could replace it without fully pulling the gears and with photos but can no longer find. Anyone have any updated related input? Not seeing anything out there. Also the part I seem to only find through Z1 so assuming Nissan uses a different name.

www.z1offroad.com

OEM '05-'15 Xterra M226 E-Locker Differential Solenoid Switch - Z1 Off-Road - Performance OEM and Aftermarket Engineered Parts Global Leader Nissan Truck & SUV

www.z1offroad.com www.z1offroad.com
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prodragon4x
You're looking for the Diff Lock Position Switch, Z1 just has it named incorrectly.

*edit - here you go.

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M
Perfect thank you! any experience on replacing it without pulling gears? Still looking for the one post but beleive I can just loosen the gear bolts to swap out
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prodragon4x
mark636 said:
Perfect thank you! any experience on replacing it without pulling gears? Still looking for the one post but beleive I can just loosen the gear bolts to swap out
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I do not have experience with replacing it. I don't recall seeing a post on the forum about it but I do recall the topic come up on Xterra Crew FB page I think.
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prodragon4x said:
I do not have experience with replacing it. I don't recall seeing a post on the forum about it but I do recall the topic come up on Xterra Crew FB page I think.
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Found it. Still some concerns on the install position and process but a direction

www.thenewx.org

Differential Lock Position Switch Problems

Sorry for the long post. Short version: My Diff lock Posiotion Switch was causing electrical problems so I pulled it apart and caused mechanical problems. :crybaby: Sounds so lame when I say it like that. DIFF LOCK and VDC OFF lights came on while doing 75-80mph on the freeway. Pull over...
www.thenewx.org www.thenewx.org
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rm975
In my opinion, It depends where the side adjusters on the carrier are set. I played with whether or not one could replace that switch while I had mine apart for regear. There is probably no definitive yes or no across the range. I found I could get mine out once assembled but it was super tight and iffy.
YRMV
Just to clarify..........you are getting the diff lock light flashing off while engaged? Usually it's folks getting a false engagement flash while disengaged due to contaminated oil.
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rm975 said:
In my opinion, It depends where the side adjusters on the carrier are set. I played with whether or not one could replace that switch while I had mine apart for regear. There is probably no definitive yes or no across the range. I found I could get mine out once assembled but it was super tight and iffy.
YRMV
Just to clarify..........you are getting the diff lock light flashing off while engaged? Usually it's folks getting a false engagement flash while disengaged due to contaminated oil.
Click to expand...
Mine is flashing while engaged but not consistent. I did a change and thought I would good but periodic still. I kind of think it could be done without fully removing the gears as it still screws in from the outside but if parked without being engaged is the plunger on the switch supposed to be pulled open or closed to the right?
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rm975
mark636 said:
Mine is flashing while engaged but not consistent. I did a change and thought I would good but periodic still. I kind of think it could be done without fully removing the gears as it still screws in from the outside but if parked without being engaged is the plunger on the switch supposed to be pulled open or closed to the right?
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Facing forward, the left half of the locking ring is the stationary side. When locking, the right half is driven by the electromagnet from right to left, engaging the left half. The push pull position switch has a "hat" on it, for lack of a better term, that catches on the right hand ring. The switch pulls closed from right to left. This hat is the clearance issue. This is not a plunger switch that pushed closed. It's getting the hat portion clear of the right lock ring and electromagnet. You could probably screw one out a bit but unless you can rotate the switch off axis, the hat won't get around the right side of the locker.

If I am understanding your question correctly.

I have my old two spider unit still, I ought to take pics or make a vid sometime of how it works. I've powered it shut on the bench before.
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M
rm975 said:
Facing forward, the left half of the locking ring is the stationary side. When locking, the right half is driven by the electromagnet from right to left, engaging the left half. The push pull position switch has a "hat" on it, for lack of a better term, that catches on the right hand ring. The switch pulls closed from right to left. This hat is the clearance issue. This is not a plunger switch that pushed closed. It's getting the hat portion clear of the right lock ring and electromagnet. You could probably screw one out a bit but unless you can rotate the switch off axis, the hat won't get around the right side of the locker.

If I am understanding your question correctly.

I have my old two spider unit still, I ought to take pics or make a vid sometime of how it works. I've powered it shut on the bench before.
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Thanks. The link above talks about loosening the cap bolts enough to pull back the gears allowing the clearance you mentioned. Actually ordered a dental tool as i want to see the position before doing as no good photos out there. As for cap bolts hoping I can fully pull one you re-add thread lock one at a time.
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E
New to the site and was hoping to purchase the E-locker pigtail mod from rm975
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M
rm975 said:
Facing forward, the left half of the locking ring is the stationary side. When locking, the right half is driven by the electromagnet from right to left, engaging the left half. The push pull position switch has a "hat" on it, for lack of a better term, that catches on the right hand ring. The switch pulls closed from right to left. This hat is the clearance issue. This is not a plunger switch that pushed closed. It's getting the hat portion clear of the right lock ring and electromagnet. You could probably screw one out a bit but unless you can rotate the switch off axis, the hat won't get around the right side of the locker.

If I am understanding your question correctly.

I have my old two spider unit still, I ought to take pics or make a vid sometime of how it works. I've powered it shut on the bench before.
Click to expand...
rm975 said:
Facing forward, the left half of the locking ring is the stationary side. When locking, the right half is driven by the electromagnet from right to left, engaging the left half. The push pull position switch has a "hat" on it, for lack of a better term, that catches on the right hand ring. The switch pulls closed from right to left. This hat is the clearance issue. This is not a plunger switch that pushed closed. It's getting the hat portion clear of the right lock ring and electromagnet. You could probably screw one out a bit but unless you can rotate the switch off axis, the hat won't get around the right side of the locker.

If I am understanding your question correctly.

I have my old two spider unit still, I ought to take pics or make a vid sometime of how it works. I've powered it shut on the bench before.
Click to expand...
Do you know if the retainer clips (M226) need to come off to loosen the caps for the locking sensor switch out? Havent opened it up yet.
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rm975
mark636 said:
Do you know if the retainer clips (M226) need to come off to loosen the caps for the locking sensor switch out? Havent opened it up yet.
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The bolt in clip that locks the adjuster? As long as you don't make any side load changes, probably not. I would mark things to make sure they don't move.
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rm975 said:
The bolt in clip that locks the adjuster? As long as you don't make any side load changes, probably not. I would mark things to make sure they don't move.
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The m226 has retainers but once i got in did seem they would impact coming off although i wasn't able to pull out the housing even slightly in any way. posted someone else's pic for retainer clip ref.
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