Rear axle above or below springs for lift options?
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having the spring under axle is better. it eliminates axle wrap and is said to be better for travel/articulation.
The spring over axle makes for a cheap way to lift using blocks but that decreases performance and multiplies the effect of axle wrap.
The spring over axle makes for a cheap way to lift using blocks but that decreases performance and multiplies the effect of axle wrap.
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i'm no engineer and don't really know how to explain it but it's basically the torque placed on the axle when you gas it makes wrap the axle twist and wrap up/twist the spring...
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Don't bother with spring-over set-ups unless you've got a full-size truck. It's great for load bearing applications but worthless off-road. Also, as mentioned above, spring-over set-ups apply more stress on the leaf springs, increasing the likelihood of a jerky rear end and possibly broken leafs.
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Having spring under is betterlifeinthesouth said:
- Depends on what is "better".
It eliminates axle wrap
- It doesn't "eliminate", but yes, less likey too. But if the spring over is done right, with new springs, axle wrap is not an issue.
SUA is Better for travel/articulation
- Where did u come up with this? To be honest, its actually the opposite.
-And the biggest advantage of SOA is that you won't get hung up on a rock with your leaf packs or bottom shock mounts.
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I am not expericanced enough in suspension to know one way or the other, I was just tring to think of different options for lifting the xterra. My thought was that you could get 5-6" inch front lift and then just swap the axle under and put whatever block you need to level it out, it may be an cheaper way to gain a high lift.
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I agree, the front is were the cost is, I was mainly thinking of the fabtech lift for the pioneer and then swapping the axle for the rear portion of the lift. I haven't check the Fabtach lift posts lately, so maybe that option won't even work.muzikman said:
You would be way better off just buying two new spring packs with the correct lift.
To do SOA you would have to cut the current spring perches off the axle and have new ones fabbed up and welded on. Most good welders will not weld brackets on an axle with the shafts and gears in it because of the chance of debris getting into the housing. So there for you have to remove the axle shafts and gears. Then you have to make sure that the person welding the new perches on lines them up correctly.
It can be done on the cheap, but you get what you pay for. To have it done right, you probably are not going to save yourself much money.
To do SOA you would have to cut the current spring perches off the axle and have new ones fabbed up and welded on. Most good welders will not weld brackets on an axle with the shafts and gears in it because of the chance of debris getting into the housing. So there for you have to remove the axle shafts and gears. Then you have to make sure that the person welding the new perches on lines them up correctly.
It can be done on the cheap, but you get what you pay for. To have it done right, you probably are not going to save yourself much money.
Speaking as one who has done a number of SOA's including 2 on my CJ-7, its actually a good way to get a lot of lift in a leaf sprung vehicle. But it should be well thought out and it will cost a lot of money to do right.
On the X I just don't see the point. You'll get 5-6" of lift. But I don't think you could even fit a tire big enough to require that much lift without cutting the wheel well. Even if you could fit a tire that big on there, say a 37" tire, the axle just wouldn't be up to that type of punishment, if you run trails tough enough to justify a 37" tire. Now lets talk about gearing, axle wrap, the speedo, shock lengths a new drive shaft, etc. And that's only the rear axle.
However, I don't see any way to get debris in the axle when you are welding on the tube, unless you blow through it (but then you have bigger problems). I've never heard of anyone disassembling an axle housing just to weld perches on. I have seen a number of people weld perches onto an empty housing but only because it was already apart.
-Old Army
On the X I just don't see the point. You'll get 5-6" of lift. But I don't think you could even fit a tire big enough to require that much lift without cutting the wheel well. Even if you could fit a tire that big on there, say a 37" tire, the axle just wouldn't be up to that type of punishment, if you run trails tough enough to justify a 37" tire. Now lets talk about gearing, axle wrap, the speedo, shock lengths a new drive shaft, etc. And that's only the rear axle.
However, I don't see any way to get debris in the axle when you are welding on the tube, unless you blow through it (but then you have bigger problems). I've never heard of anyone disassembling an axle housing just to weld perches on. I have seen a number of people weld perches onto an empty housing but only because it was already apart.
-Old Army
Thats probably more for clearance issues. I imagine its a bit tough to weld the spring buckets and LCA's with the axle flange and backing plate in place. I see no reason to pull the diff though. I wouldn't make you do it. But then again, I'm not a professional (welder).
-Old Army
-Old Army
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Sorry about the confusion... two different trains of thought here... when i think about suspension performance I think SCORE race trucks(SU better)... you guys think rock crawling(SO better).PonyBoy said:
So like you said... "depends on what is better" and depends on what the vehicle is being used for.
My main reason for considering this lift option for the rear. I don't care how much lift I get or what tires can fit due to that lift, I just want maximum wheel travel. I have also welded spring perches onto an assembled axle. As long as you take your time and don't overheat the section you are welding it is fine.PonyBoy said:
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