Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sent the following to ARB this morning… SO BUMMED!!!! I typed out a really angry email regarding their lack of quality control, etc, etc - but then re-did it in nicer language. Any of you with lockers for the m205 see anything like this on yours??

Hello -

I recently took delivery on an RD224 locker for Nissan m205 differential. As I began the installation process, I noticed that the bearing journal on the ring gear side has what looks to be an errant mark from a welder (?). I'm not really sure what this is, but it doesn't look right to me and I'm concerned about the structural soundness of this locker.

Would you please have a look at these two photos (I apologize for the size of the files, but I figured you would want the highest possible resolution) and answer a couple questions for me:
- Is this normal?
- Is this going to affect the performance and/or longevity of this locker?

Many thanks -


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A drop of slag would raise the surface - this is a divot. They'd have to fill it in somehow - I think it's a goner.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
10,980 Posts
Kinda looks like the program glitched when it was getting machined, and the bit dug in at that spot ... could be something else entirely, though. I don't know if they do any kind of plating or bath based processes, but it could be a fluke from something like that.

Very weird, but if it's a problem, I'd be shocked if they didn't take care of you ... I think you were smart to take a cooler-headed approach and revise your e-mail. If you haven't heard anything in a few days, though, I'd follow up with a call ... like maybe on Monday?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I'm stymied as to how this could have happened.

Cooler-headed approach was based on two things:
1) I've always been super impressed with ARB's quality and service in the past and
2) As grandpa used to say "Catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar"

I'm sure they'll take care of me on it, I'm just hoping they've got a carrier to replace it with!

The good news is that I'm taking the slow and steady approach to my titan swap and until I have the locker in I won't be changing anything on my X. No rush!
 

·
on line
Joined
·
4,198 Posts
As a machinist & CNC programmer for 30 years, that looks to me like a twist drill mark. It looks like it errantly hit the angle, deflected, and then the tip burned up. The size looks surprisingly similar to the hole below it in your first photo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That sounds like a reasonable explanation - thanks, Buddy! I'll be interested to hear what they say...
 

·
on line
Joined
·
10,980 Posts
As a machinist & CNC programmer for 30 years, that looks to me like a twist drill mark. It looks like it errantly hit the angle, deflected, and then the tip burned up. The size looks surprisingly similar to the hole below it in your first photo.
Now that I look at it again, and you articulate it like that ... I wholeheartedly agree. I'd lay better than even odds that ARB uses an NC drill table to do their ring-gear patterns, which means the head has to pick up and move around ... I bet there was some error to the code that wound up causing the divot.

Still surprised it went out the door that way, though ... maybe it really isn't a problem. If you run your finger over it, are there any protrusions; or is it just the divot?

Absolutely 100% positive QC is virtually impossible (not to mention ridiculously expensive) ... but I've always been under the impression that ARB runs a tight ship. I'd chalk this up to a first run issue - typical that the first production run will catch an error or two that didn't come up in testing, you just want to design the test program so that the impact of those errors is minimized - the real test will be in how they handle this for you. I'm optimistic for a positive outcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, ARB's reputation for good service is intact. Already heard back from them - and it's only 8:30am in Seattle!

Here's the reply:
Hi James,
What you’re looking at there is the sealed plug where the air passage was drilled through the flange cap on the diff. This one is more discolored than we typically see, but is normal and will not have any negative impact on the longevity or operation of the locker itself. That hole is drilled and then plugged as part of the manufacturing process and is intentional. Please let me know if you have further questions or concerns.

Best Regards,
Marc Bowers
Technical Supervisor & Warranty Manager
Air Locker, Inc.


I trust them to do the right thing, so ONWARD with the install!

Gotta edit the title to this post :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Right? I've installed 5 ARB lockers before this one and never seen anything like this on any of them. But - I trust them. I really do believe that they'd replace the unit if they thought there were any chance of failure.

ONWARD!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No need to remove the pinion gear, just the carrier with ring gear.

I'm happy to do a write-up on the install, but it's really no different from the manual that comes with the locker. Mudlover55 posted up a few photos here.

You'll need some specialty tools:
46 mm (1-13/16") socket (NOT an impact socket - they're too thick-walled). I got mine at Sears.

Bearing puller for removing bearings from original carrier (honestly, I skip this step, just get new bearings - not expensive an WAAAAAY easier!!)

Shop press for installing the bearings

Dial indicator for measuring backlash.

If you have access to all these, then the install is a piece of cake. If not, it's probably better to have someone else do it as the tools will run you a couple hundred bucks.

I will tell you that, should you decide to do it yourself, you will need this piece of pipe (or one of same measurements) to press the bearings on:
2.125"OD, 1.885"ID, .12"wall

With those things on hand, the install goes exactly as the manual describes. Depending on your m205 you may have to grind a bevel onto your lock rings (see here).

If you get stuck, PM me and I'll help as best I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Seriously thinking about doing this myself. Decided to stick with the 4.10 gears so no need to yank the pinion. Have access to all the tools but it'd cost me $375 to have someone else do it... Might as well add tools to the toolbox along with some knowledge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
Yea I guess if your pinion seal is ok and the bearings are good shouldn't have to take it out. hmmm....do our carriers get adjusted with shims or adjuster screws? for backlash. that you will have to adjust since you are replacing the carrier correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You'll be fine. Keep it clean, make sure you get any metal shavings (from drilling the air fitting) out of the case, set your backlash properly and you'll have no worries.

The instructions they provide are spot-on and leave no question unanswered. Well, almost no question...

Every diff model is obviously different and every locker designed differently as a result, so don't take anything for granted even if you've done it before. The install on the r180 locker was different from the m205 (m205 being easier).

Only thing that had me puzzled as I began to remove the original carrier was the locking screws for the adjuster nuts. I spent 20 or 30 minutes trying to find what the hell they were talking about (no pics) until I realized they were sunk into the surface of the face of the diff and the hole for these screws had been filled in with RTV when the cover was installed. Dig out the RTV, voila, locking screws… Learn something new every time!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea I guess if your pinion seal is ok and the bearings are good shouldn't have to take it out. hmmm....do our carriers get adjusted with shims or adjuster screws? for backlash. that you will have to adjust since you are replacing the carrier correct?
m205 has adjuster nuts (that's what the 46mm socket is for). The r180 used shims. I prefer the adjuster nuts - much easier!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
no need to remove the pinion gear, just the carrier with ring gear.

I'm happy to do a write-up on the install, but it's really no different from the manual that comes with the locker. Mudlover55 posted up a few photos here.

You'll need some specialty tools:
46 mm (1-13/16") socket (not an impact socket - they're too thick-walled). I got mine at sears.

Bearing puller for removing bearings from original carrier (honestly, i skip this step, just get new bearings - not expensive an waaaaay easier!!)

shop press for installing the bearings

dial indicator for measuring backlash.

If you have access to all these, then the install is a piece of cake. If not, it's probably better to have someone else do it as the tools will run you a couple hundred bucks.

I will tell you that, should you decide to do it yourself, you will need this piece of pipe (or one of same measurements) to press the bearings on:
2.125"od, 1.885"id, .12"wall

with those things on hand, the install goes exactly as the manual describes. Depending on your m205 you may have to grind a bevel onto your lock rings (see here).

If you get stuck, pm me and i'll help as best i can.
ditto
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top