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Discussion Starter #1
So I just had this issue occur and my 2006 is currently at the trans shop now. The shop (Cottman Transmission) is basically giving me two options:

1) Rebuild entire transmission and replace radiator and everything involved for $5500. This includes a 3 year warranty or 100k miles, whichever comes first. Radiator includes a 12 month/12k mile warranty. I plan on doing the bypass after the work is done as its a daily driver for my wife and we don't tow, and live in northern VA.

2) Replace the radiator, clutch packs, torque converter, valve body. I was shown where the clutch was starting to gouge out the internals, which the tech say may eventually cause hangups or issues. Again after this is done, I would do the bypass. This only comes with a 12 month/12k mile warranty, and they priced it at $4900. I contacted a local Nissan dealer and priced out the parts on their estimate and found $757 in price difference, so I know they are marking it up.

Truck itself is a 2006 auto with 95k miles. I want to keep it, but I don't know if these quotes are even in the right ballpark for what I should actually be paying for this work. The tranny is still in pieces and I am already on the hook for the $850 teardown, so they have got me by the balls here.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Damn, that sucks that they have already done the tear down. Because Nissan is so familiar with the problem and has actually recognized the issue, my suggestion would actually have been to take it to them to have the work done. They would likely just totally replace the transmission with a reman option and put a brand new radiator in. I have never priced it, but I don't think you would have been that far off in price from where you are now.

As for your options now, I'd do option 1. Get it all done, get the warranty, and get a new radiator in that thing. To be perfectly honest with you, I would actually not do the bypass after it was fixed. MANY people will disagree with me on that. My thought process is simply that hte failure is in the radiator, that is where the fluids got mixed. To me, with that new radiator you are good. IF you bypass it though, I recommend adding more cooling capability. Add a fan. I have the set up shown in the link and am also running a Bully Dog tuner which allows me to monitor my transmission temps. I'm in Fredericksburg, VA, so not far from you, I don't even have a tow hitch on the truck so no towing....regardless, in the hot weather around here, just like yesterday was, temps can climb very fast. I drove to DC a few weekends ago. On the highway, everything was below 160, usually right around 150ish. As soon as I got into DC and was on and off the gas in slow traffic etc, I climbed to above 180 and had to leave the fan running to maintain 160 and below.

What I'm getting at with all the blather about the fan is that, by doing the bypass, you are taking away some cooling capacity. Towing or not, that is no good. A lot of people do the bypass and just rest easy thinking they are good.

Heat is just as deadly to a transmission as coolant, it just takes longer.
 

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Good advice above, I think I'm inclined to agree. If you have a written estimate of parts from the dealer who quoted you, you could always take it to the shop and see if they'd be willing to come down in their cost to you. :dontknow: ... parts cost may be a moot point with option 1, though. Either way, those estimates don't seem too out of bed from what I've seen other folks quote for their costs to have similar work done.

... check out this sticky from jeff_redx, on the AT cooling system performance and operation ... may give you some more food for thought on the bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the advice. Ended up going with the option 1 with a 3 yr unlimited mile warranty. Cost wasn't cheap, but as soon as I realized the tranny was gone I knew it wasn't going to be.
 
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