Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
on line
Joined
·
3,473 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been getting embarrassing levels of noise from the front of my X. Traced it down to the bushings on the stock control arms. Ordered the driver's side UCA and LCA to replace as it seemed to be the biggest culprit of the noise. Replaced the top fine. When to replace the bottom, but I couldn't get the bolt out of the radflo bushing. I sprayed it with deep creep, torched the hell out of it, and beat on it with a mini sledge. It won't budge. I gave up and bolted everything back on.

I had similar issues with other bolts on the LCA...mainly the one locking the ball joint in place. Deep Creep + Torch + beating freed all the bolt no problem. I am at a loss for what to do with the radflo. Any suggestions?
 

·
In Limbo
Joined
·
9,460 Posts
The bolt is seized into the heim joint on the bottom of the shock. The only option left is to cut the bolt out from both sides. I had to do the exact same thing a couple years ago. And, once it is out it has to be sent to Radflo to be rebuilt. It is bad news to hear, but that is probably your only option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
well since you ordered the UCA and LCA, would it be easier (for the time beign) to cut the mounting tabs off of your LCA that your shock attaches to, then at that point, you would be able to work on the radflo away from your rig and be able to use something with more weight or swing to get that seized bold out of there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Ok, I have worked on things older than anyone on this site. I have never encountered a bolt that literally "can't" come off. You torched the NUT until cherry red and put a cheater bar or impact on it and nothing?
It has to be seized and rusted. There isn't enough temperature or pressure to weld it.

I bring this up because I have seen it in other posts. Not knocking you but I'm breaking it down in layman's terms. You know heat makes metal expand. Heating a bolt makes it stick tighter. The expansion might break the rust free but it's still going to make it harder to come out. The PB is there to break it free. Heat the nut, apply impact. You want the nut to be, I use the term loosely because you're not actually applying enough heat, malleable. If you don't have impact, cheater bar and jump.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
on line
Joined
·
8,599 Posts
It's stuck because of the junk spacers that are on the lower bolt for the shock.
We had the same problem with Neil's. The part of the spacer that goes into the lower ball joint is so thin that over time it just wears out and the bolt gets jammed.
Like said, order new lower spacers and maybe even the joint for the shock. Then just cut through the spacers and bolt on both sides. Then remove the Cclip off the lower mount on the shock and replace the lower ball.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
Couldn't a reverse drill bit (left handed bit) be used to drill through the bolt while holding a wrench on the nut? That typically gets anything out. Then you'd just need a new lower bolt.




Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
on line
Joined
·
3,285 Posts
I had a hell of a time getting the lower shock bolt out of the driver's side (after 4 years of beating up my Titan Swap). Anyway, the nut came off without an issue. But the bolt would only slide so far before the spacer caused it to bind up. I ended up using a punch and a sledge hammer (and some Wheaties - lol) to get it freed. It took many hits with the sledge before it was freed up.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
3,473 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
First of all, I am well of aware of what heat does to metal and why/how you torch something to break it free. I wasn't heating the bolt, I was heating the sleeve the bolt is seized in. The nut came off without much of a fight. The bolt and sleeves are freely spinning together in the lower shock mount. The only option is to pound it out, which didn't work.

If you look at this photo, there are 2 sleeves that go on the bolt and compress into the lower heim joint when tightened. Both of them are spinning freely with the bolt. When I hammer one way, one of the sleeves is is shifting in, while the other is shifting out. Not having the sleeve in a fixed position is making it extremely hard to pound out the bolt.



I had a hell of a time getting the lower shock bolt out of the driver's side (after 4 years of beating up my Titan Swap). Anyway, the nut came off without an issue. But the bolt would only slide so far before the spacer caused it to bind up. I ended up using a punch and a sledge hammer (and some Wheaties - lol) to get it freed. It took many hits with the sledge before it was freed up.
The bolt will not budge at all. I tried using a punch, but it was hard to line up. I used a giant bolt to line up better. Beat the hell out of it for an hour or 2 until I finally gave up. If I had more room to get sledge momentum, it might help. I have a feeling its going to take a lot more than that to free that bastard.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
3,473 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Like said, order new lower spacers and maybe even the joint for the shock. Then just cut through the spacers and bolt on both sides. Then remove the Cclip off the lower mount on the shock and replace the lower ball.
In theory, that sounds fine. Things always go wrong for me, and if I can't make it happen and I cut the bolt off, I am screwed.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
Didn't see that, sorry. Would be worth a shot, but also could go wrong...especially with me doing it. I would need a quick backup plan in case I break the bolt to where it can't be reattached, but I still can't remove it.
Use a punch to get the center of the bolt head. Using that dimple you made use a left handed drill bit to drill the bolt. One of 2 things will happen as long as you drill the center of the bolt head, the heat of the drilling will break the bolt free, or you'll drill completely through the bolt which can then be punched out with a BFH and punch. Usually itll break free before you drill all the way through it though. And since its a left handed drill bit itll back itself out if/when it catches.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
8,599 Posts
I don't think left or right handed bits are gonna matter. It's not gonna break it loose. You will either drill all the way through the bolt and keep making the hole bigger till you can break it.

What I said about the heat is that Bigmex had the same problem and used a torch to heat up the bolt. The lower portion of the shock body got reall hot and deformed. The shock is useless now.


I replaced the lower balls on my 2.5s when I put them in. It was pretty easy. Remove C-clip and knock out with a socket.
If you just cut throught the spacers and bolt then you will be able to remove the hole coil over and will be able to knock out the lower ball with the bolt and spacers stuck in it. Then just put in new ball. They are pretty cheap from Radflo.

I think those spacers are one of the worst designs. The metal is so thin that over time it breaks/smashes and the bolt gets stuck.

You got 3 options.
1. BFH and another bolt to knock it out.
2. Air hammer and another bolt
3. Cut it


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top