Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,535 Posts
The less expensive kit uses a single leaf add-a-leaf in the rear. It provides no lift in the rear and is essentially a leveling kit.

The other kit has a 2-leaf add-a-leaf, replaces one of the stock leaves, and will lift your rig two inches front and rear. It provides a greater spring rate.

There is a third option that isn't on PRG's website - Bilstein 5100 adjustable length shocks in the front (rather than a spacer) with the 2-leaf add-a-leaf in the rear.

I went with option #3 after speaking with Greg at PRG since there were already a lot of miles on my shocks. There is no issue with coil bucket contact as there sometimes is with spacers. Although you don't absolutely need to replace the rear shocks if you go this route, I decided to replace the stock units with Bilstein 5100 extended length shocks in the rear. I got a full 2" of lift in the rear and about 1.75" in front (Greg recommends not extending the adjustable Bilstein 5100s to full length to preserve ride quality.)

I have no complaints about this set up; it has worked well for me so far. My X is my daily driver, so highway manners were a prime consideration. I tow an offroad trailer, so a slightly higher spring capacity was important. I didn't want to go any taller than 2" of lift because I have to get my X into a garage and my wheeling in this rig is primarily exploration on forest service roads and moderate trails. (Also, the cost of a lift seems to increase exponentially when one goes above 2".)

One suggestion: If you go with a 2-leaf add-a-leaf in the rear, get the axle shims to keep the drive shaft angle aligned. They aren't always necessary, depends on the particular truck, but I did get some minor vibration between 30-38 mph before I put them in. Putting them in the first time would have saved some work.

When you call PRG you will need to be patient. PRG is Greg and one employee, Ian. It is not unusual for both of them to be in the shop working on a customer's rig or fabricating/designing parts. Although they try, they can't always stop what they are doing to answer the phone. Leave a message. Greg will call you back as soon as he can, and he will spend as much time as you need to answer all of your questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the information. My confusion came in considering the description of the mini kit stated that it lifts the truck 2" front and rear. For the little difference, I would go with the more expensive one though.

I have looked at the 5100s, but I have read some negative things online about them. Can anyone chime in on them? If Company's like PRG are recommending them, they can't be all bad.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,535 Posts
Wrong.
The single leaf provides 11/2"-2" lift. It doesn't replace any of the stock leafs, none of the AAL do actually.
Not exactly.

The thick leaf on the bottom of the stock spring pack is removed and replaced with the Deaver (PRG design) two-leaf AAL assembly.

I can't speak for the one-leaf AAL sold by PRG, Nisstec and others, but intuitively I would agree that it couldn't be an "add" a leaf if one removes a stock leaf only to replace it with another.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Thanks for the information. My confusion came in considering the description of the mini kit stated that it lifts the truck 2" front and rear. For the little difference, I would go with the more expensive one though.

I have looked at the 5100s, but I have read some negative things online about them. Can anyone chime in on them? If Company's like PRG are recommending them, they can't be all bad.
I run the 5100s in front and rear with TJM Med lift coils, and adjustable shackles in the rear. I love the 5100s, I've ran them pretty hard in the 2 weeks I've had them and I could really feel the difference between the stock and upgraded suspension. Now I'm not sure how they ride with the OME coilovers, but if you have them set to the full 2" of lift in the front then they wont ride as well as if you set it about an inch lower. I have a better ride off and on road, and it's a lot softer which I like. One thing I do get though is upper coil bucket contact when off roading and traveling at a decent speed going over bumps or something, but that's something that could be fixed with aftermarket UCAs I believe. Overall I like the 5100s and would recommend them.

My suggestion is, do your research on the different shocks and look at build threads to see what others are riding with, ask around and see how people like their ride with the lift they have.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,535 Posts
I have looked at the 5100s, but I have read some negative things online about them. Can anyone chime in on them?
I've read several threads about the 5100 adjustable length shocks. A common theme that relates to nearly all of the complaints involves installation issues.

The instructions that come with the shocks specifies certain parts that must be re-used (washers, spacers, etc., if I recall correctly). If these parts are not re-used the result is clunking sounds and poor handling. Since most shock installations are simply a matter of removing the old ones and installing the new ones without using any of the removed parts, many people just put the 5100s on just like any other shock and don't read the instructions assuming that nothing different is required. Worse yet, they throw the old stuff away before thoroughly test driving the rig. Greg at PRG warned me about this. Since I've installed many, many shocks over the years, I probably would have been one of the guys who just threw away the old stuff. Greg saved me from myself.

I have had "zero" issues with my 5100s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
I have looked at the 5100s, but I have read some negative things online about them. Can anyone chime in on them?
I have the 5100's. Love them. The ONLY issue I've had with them was 100% user error (driving like she was a pre-runner, not a crawler).

Durable. Soft when set right. Great deal for what you pay for them.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
Not exactly.

The thick leaf on the bottom of the stock spring pack is removed and replaced with the Deaver (PRG design) two-leaf AAL assembly.

I can't speak for the one-leaf AAL sold by PRG, Nisstec and others, but intuitively I would agree that it couldn't be an "add" a leaf if one removes a stock leaf only to replace it with another.
The overload leaf is removed for all AAL installations. Some people choose to leave it on. It makes no difference.
Regardless, you're wrong about it being a leveling kit and providing no lift.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,592 Posts
The overload leaf is removed for all AAL installations. Some people choose to leave it on. It makes no difference.
Regardless, you're wrong about it being a leveling kit and providing no lift.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
If you remove the overload and add a 2 inch add a leaf. How do you end up with 2 inchs of lift?

I'd think if you removed a leaf you would be lowering it and adding another would make up for the loss of the overload but not give you 2 inchs of lift
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,147 Posts
If you remove the overload and add a 2 inch add a leaf. How do you end up with 2 inchs of lift?

I'd think if you removed a leaf you would be lowering it and adding another would make up for the loss of the overload but not give you 2 inchs of lift
That's not how this game works. We are sprung under, you could have a pack with 50 leaves and could stay at the same height. The amount of arch is about the only thing that changes our height. If we were SOA, you would lose that 1/2" or so from the thickness of the over load leaf.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
If you remove the overload and add a 2 inch add a leaf. How do you end up with 2 inchs of lift?

I'd think if you removed a leaf you would be lowering it and adding another would make up for the loss of the overload but not give you 2 inchs of lift
Mr Scott beat me to it.

Plus, the overload is basically a piece of flat steel to prevent the leaves from negative arch. It has no arch of its own and as soon as a AAL is installed is completely useless. Even without modification to the rear suspension it's still useless since the truck bottoms out so easy (as we all know) so the overload actually would never be used.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
so to lift the front, you'd suggest getting adjustsable Bils rather than spacers? the prg guy recommends not running them at full extension, so would it be better to get longer shocks than needed and barely extend them at all? wouldnt that create a longer travel capability in each direction? for the rear, I desprately need new shocks in the rear, so would it make sense to get shackles and new shocks? that'd be cheaper than shocks and AAL,s wouldnt it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
so to lift the front, you'd suggest getting adjustsable Bils rather than spacers? the prg guy recommends not running them at full extension, so would it be better to get longer shocks than needed and barely extend them at all? wouldnt that create a longer travel capability in each direction? for the rear, I desprately need new shocks in the rear, so would it make sense to get shackles and new shocks? that'd be cheaper than shocks and AAL,s wouldnt it?
2" adjustable shackles will give you a definite 2" lift in the rear, and the ride will be softer as opposed to an AAL. As for the front I'd say it depends on the kind of ride and how much lift you're going to want as well as budget. If you really want to upgrade your shocks then just get a pair of the 5100s and run them at 0 lift with a 2" spacer, or 1" lift with a 1" spacer. You could also just get the adjustable bils and run them at 2" but your ride wont be that great.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top