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Also you can’t tell the condition of the coolant just by seeing if it looks clean. The additives get depleted over time and it doesn’t always change the look of it.

Also with the caps over time the rubber goes bad and the springs can loose tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Fair points. Ok; you guys are convincing me to just switch it out.

Wondering - do you guys think there any harm in mixing Nissan Green with Zerex? Or using Nissan Green when my car seems to come with blue? (2012 P4X).

I'm having a hard time finding the blue long life concentrate which makes it difficult to reach the 50/50 level; I am thinking - fill with Zerex after flushing with distilled water, but that still leaves me at most, a 40/60 mix after draining and refilling.

I am thinking of then adding green Nissan concentrate to bring it up to 50%. I don't mind reducing the years of the "long life", since I anticipate changing the coolant more frequently. Or just using Nissan Green straight...
 

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I think you are overcomplicating things.

You should be able to get Nissan blue long life coolant from your local Nissan dealer. If they don't have it in stock they can have it in a day.

Nissan blue coolant is also available on Amazon, both 1 qt. concentrated and 1 gal. 50/50 mix.
 

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yeah ! you can order Nissan blue coolant of the amazon if you dont have Nissan dealer close by so they will ship it to you... I just dont know how much they might charge you at the dealer ... I feel like online the stuff is always cheaper
 

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My local Nissan was actually cheaper than Amazon for the Nissan Long Life.

No, you can't mix the blue and green coolants.
Also your coolant looks pretty clean so you really don't need to worry about the flushing. Drain the radiator and the block plug on the driver's side is really easy to get to. The one on the passenger side is not worth the trouble so you will get at least 3/4 of the old coolant out.
 

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oh really... nice.. I need to check my local Nissan then as well next time ))
I mean when I fixed my oil pump I needed a new gasket for it.. they had it there pretty cheap like $6 only and its an OEM.. and the one they sold me at advance out parts didn't even fit :confused:
 

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No, you can't mix the blue and green coolants.
Yes, you can.

Both are ethylene glycol coolants. Both use HOAT technology.

The only thing that happens if you mix Nissan blue coolant with Nissan green coolant is you lose the long life capabilities of the blue coolant - the service life of the blended coolant is reduced to the service life of the green coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok, fair points around; I tend to get complicated, I know. Mainly because Nissan coolant just seems so darn expensive.

I"m thinking of returning the Valvoline Zerex 50/50 since I don't know what is technically inside my X if I did a simple drain and fill. That would make sense right? I don't know if I have Nissan, Valvoline, or other, in my radiator so a drain and fill would be a guess at best, and not a baseline.

If I were to go with a flush, have you guys heard of the Peak OET Blue coolant? I just found this for concentrate at $23/gal at AutoZone.

See below for price differentials:

1. Nearby Dealer sells Nissan Blue 50/50 @ $25/Gal
2. Amazon Nissan Blue 50/50 $18/Gal + Shipping, Nissan Blue Conc. $13/Qt + Shipping
3. Amazon Nissan Green Conc. $30/Gal + Shipping
3. Peak OET Blue Conc. $23/Gal + Free Ship

Options below for a flush:

A. I could go with Peak OET, which is rumored to be made by CCI in the same place where Zerex and many others are made. Cheapest.

B. Spend the money for all Nissan Blue flush (4 qts of concentrate, 1 gallon of 50/50).

C. Split the difference with 1 gal of Nissan Green Conc. and 1 gal of Nissan Blue 50/50

Thoughts? I would imagine counsel here would just to be spend the money on the Nissan Blue. Thanks.
 

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Yes, you can.

Both are ethylene glycol coolants. Both use HOAT technology.

The only thing that happens if you mix Nissan blue coolant with Nissan green coolant is you lose the long life capabilities of the blue coolant - the service life of the blended coolant is reduced to the service life of the green coolant.
Thanks Mr. Bill, though they were not compatible.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Update here: I'm sure Mr. Bill will be happy to know that I am going to go OEM for coolant on this first flush, then maybe in the future will switch. Thanks for your advice.

One question here regarding the transmission drain plug:

1. My 1/2 inch torque wrench couldn't fit to work on the 3/4 inch drain plug, so I tightened as much as I could without feeling I was forcing things, but my transmission drain plug looks like this with the oem type gasket - is this normal?

I have the flat face of the gasket facing the pan, and the round one facing the nut bolt. It seems like the flat way should go towards to pan, makes sense if it is trying to make a seal.

--> I did the reverse on the oil drain plug... not really sure what the right way is. But on my oil pan, it was leaking a little bit after I changed the oil yesterday on the supposed 29 ft-lbs and it was exposed a little, so I screwed it in a little more and now is no longer exposed.

So without being able to use my longer torque wrench, I don't really know the torque, but with a small 6 inch socket wrench I wrenched as much as I could until it felt like I was really forcing it in. Breaking it took quite a bit of strength from the same 6 inch socket - felt like whoever last put it on did a number on it, but maybe its just because i have less leverage due to the short socket.

IMG_9188.JPG

I was going to PMF, but I think I will just drain and fill a total of three times. Took it around the block and it feels like a new car already.

Thank you again in advance and for all the help so far. Apologies for the long thread.
 

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Update here: I'm sure Mr. Bill will be happy to know that I am going to go OEM for coolant on this first flush, then maybe in the future will switch. Thanks for your advice.

One question here regarding the transmission drain plug:

1. My 1/2 inch torque wrench couldn't fit to work on the 3/4 inch drain plug, so I tightened as much as I could without feeling I was forcing things, but my transmission drain plug looks like this with the oem type gasket - is this normal?

I have the flat face of the gasket facing the pan, and the round one facing the nut bolt. It seems like the flat way should go towards to pan, makes sense if it is trying to make a seal.

--> I did the reverse on the oil drain plug... not really sure what the right way is. But on my oil pan, it was leaking a little bit after I changed the oil yesterday on the supposed 29 ft-lbs and it was exposed a little, so I screwed it in a little more and now is no longer exposed.

So without being able to use my longer torque wrench, I don't really know the torque, but with a small 6 inch socket wrench I wrenched as much as I could until it felt like I was really forcing it in. Breaking it took quite a bit of strength from the same 6 inch socket - felt like whoever last put it on did a number on it, but maybe its just because i have less leverage due to the short socket.

View attachment 131242

I was going to PMF, but I think I will just drain and fill a total of three times. Took it around the block and it feels like a new car already.

Thank you again in advance and for all the help so far. Apologies for the long thread.
Did it leak on your test drive? No? Then I'd say it's good.
 

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You know you can use an extension on the torque wrench or a deep socket right? On something like a drain plug the torque lost through an extension isn’t critical.

I have been using the OEM crush washer on the oil pan torqued to 24 ft/lbs with no issues.
I also like to spray the entire area with brake cleaner after the oil change just to remove any residual oil.
 
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