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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Looking to change out the fluids on a new to me 2nd Gen X, first time working with a Nissan, and a 4x4 truck no less. Only have a few oil changes under my belt on sedans, and one transmission oil change.

I just wanted to make sure I had everything correct, could you guys let me know if I'm missing anything? I think my biggest question is if the oil plug gasket I have linked below is correct, and if that is the same as the crush washer.

Engine
1. 5W-30 (Castol Edge High Mileage)
2. Oil Filter
3. Oil Plug Gasket (same as crush washer? - Dorman 097-134)

Automatic Transmission Fluid
1. Matic-S ATF (10 7/8 qt)
2. Oil Plug Gasket (same as engine oil?)

Transfer Case
1. Matic-D or equivalent (2 1/8 qt)
2. Oil Plug Gasket (same as engine oil?)

Other
1. Torque Wrench
2. Funnels

Thanks in advance.
 

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Against advice on this forum, I have re used the crush washers many times with no problems. They are all different sizes. I bought one of those kits of crush washers of various sizes off amazon and nothing fit. Pretty sure you can find the sizing on here somewhere or get them from the dealer if you want to replace them. Many of us use valvoline max life atf - red jug for auto trans and transfer case.
 

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This is the oil gasket I got when I did oil change UTSAUTO Oil Crush Washers

This was the oil filter I used PurolatorONE

For the Engine oil at the time the AmazonBasics High Mileage Motor Oil was only $16 and after doing a research on it.. I got it.. but I guess any high-mileage full-synthetic should be fine

And this would be my chose of auto trans and transfer case oil
 

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Oil really doesn’t matter.
Oil filters can cause issues like noise, can’t beat OEM for $8.
ATF and transfer case Valvoline MaxLife ATF from Walmart.

Oil pan takes any crush washer from the parts store, I think it’s 12mm? Pretty sure trans was the same.

For the front diff and transfer case McMaster Carr 97725A860 18mm aluminum sealing washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome, I had no idea that there was a 3rd Party ATF - somehow I missed that searching through the forums. Thank you, saved me a lot of $$.

mikidymac, appreciate the help there too for the front diff / transfer case washer.

Thank you.
 

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I too have reused the original crush washer without issue. I also used valvoline fluids in all. The one issue I ran into was not getting the full capacity of rear differential fluid back in. Sounds like the axle tubes likely had fluid stuck in them that failed to drain,. I'll likely be trying this again soon.
 

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Welcome!


Max life ATF also for power steering. Turkey baster remove old stuff and refill with new.

Drain & fill your front and rear differentials. Rear will probably smell terrible. If you drop the spare tire, there's enough room to upside-down squeeze bottle new fluid in instead of needing a pump.

Coolant drain & fill can't hurt depending on your mileage.

Get yourself some 2 gallon buckets with lids to segregate and recycle/dispose of, a clear graduated 5 gallon bucket and lid (put back in what you take out from transmission), and a wide topped oil catch pan with spout to catch splatter.

Brake fluid flush probably not a bad idea too.

There are good How-To threads on here for all these. Also free factory service manuals for your model year. Google searching for your term with site:thenewx.org works better than the site search tool.
 

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Hi all,

Looking to change out the fluids on a new to me 2nd Gen X, first time working with a Nissan, and a 4x4 truck no less. Only have a few oil changes under my belt on sedans, and one transmission oil change.

I just wanted to make sure I had everything correct, could you guys let me know if I'm missing anything? I think my biggest question is if the oil plug gasket I have linked below is correct, and if that is the same as the crush washer.

Engine
1. 5W-30 (Castol Edge High Mileage)
2. Oil Filter
3. Oil Plug Gasket (same as crush washer? - Dorman 097-134)

Automatic Transmission Fluid
1. Matic-S ATF (10 7/8 qt)
2. Oil Plug Gasket (same as engine oil?)

Transfer Case
1. Matic-D or equivalent (2 1/8 qt)
2. Oil Plug Gasket (same as engine oil?)

Other
1. Torque Wrench
2. Funnels

Thanks in advance.
That's the exact same oil crush washers I ordered from Amazon and are identical to the oem ones. As for the washers/gaskets on the Tcase, front diff, and Trans, they are all aluminum. I just re-used those ones when I did my fluid changes. Just double check after a few days that there is no leaking anywhere around those. And remember, take the FILL plug out first before draining any fluids, just in case you can't get it to break loose after you've already drained the fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys.

Coolant question here: I just noticed that my coolant level when the engine was cold is below the min line - surprised. I had taken in my new/used X to the dealer and they didn't find anything wrong. Wonder how they missed that / hope there is no leak.

Looks like I will need to top off the coolant, I don't think I want to do an entire flush with the whole distilled water process. Can I still drain whatever existing coolant I have, and then just fill the system with new coolant? Tried to find answers using the Google search, but once again, mostly only found threads about entire flush and fill.

I just ordered some Valvoline Zerex Blue - 1 gallon.

Thanks!
 

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IMG_20200921_091259.jpg
Yes, you can drain and refill for peace of mind. You'll need more than a gallon though, at least 1.75 for simple drain/fill (see my bucket from my recent radiator drain/swap). That Zerex is good stuff, not a 50/50 mixer.

One of these Lisle funnels makes it easy to reduce air bubbles in the system when you refill. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY

There are some great How-to's on here with lessons learned and tips for success.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Crofton, Thanks. It seems like there are various coolant change methods, and I am getting a bit confused.

I found this YouTube video on how to drain and fill - seems like this guy is just doing it via the reservoir whereas others are filling the radiator directly and trying to make sure there are no bubbles.

Will this YouTube method work as well?

 

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The xterra doesn't need any special funnels or filling methods as it is self purging. Drain out all the old coolant you can. Make sure you are matching what came out green or blue as you can't mix the two.

I would suggest getting new OEM rad and tank caps then fill the radiator up all the way and put the cap on. Then fill the tank all the way to MAX with the engine cold and start the engine. if it gets below the MAX mark fill it back up then do a few heat cycles with the cap on and top it back up to the MAX mark if it ever drops below it. The system will self purge any air but if you let the tank get even close the the MIN mark it can pull air back into the system.
 

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This is the fluids list I use:

[Note: There is nothing magic about Nissan Matic-S - it is merely private labeled full synthetic Dex/Merc ATF that complies with the JASO-1A industry standard. Any ATF labeled as compatible with Matic-S is acceptable.]

Engine Oil and Filter
Oil - Valvoline Maxlife 5w-30 - 5 qts
Filter - NAPA Gold FIL 7356 or Fram Tough Gard TG7317
Oil Pan drain plug crush washer - NAPA ATM PB147

Automatic Transmission
Valvoline Maxlife (a Nissan Matic S equivalent)
Needs between 4- 4 1/2 qts. for "drain and fill", 10-12 qts. for a "poor man's flush"
Requires same crush washer for drain plug as oil pan

Transfer Case
FSM calls for Nissan Matic D ATF or equivalent (ordinary Dexron III/Mercon)
I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF which is backwards compatible with Matic D so I only have to buy one type of ATF
Capacity when dry is 2 1/8 qt.; my last service required 1 7/8 qt.

Front Differential
Valvoline synthetic blend GL-5 80w-90, 1 qt.

M226 Rear Differential
Valvoline GL-5 full synthetic 75w-140, 4 ¼ pts.

[C200 Rear Differential requires API GL-5 Synthetic 75W-90 Gear Oil or Equivalent, capacity: 3 3/8 pts.]

Coolant
The FSM calls for Nissan long life coolant (blue) or equivalent.
I considered using Zerex silicate free coolant for Asian vehicles, but the cost difference between Zerex and Nissan coolants wasn't much so I have been using Nissan L248SP Engine Coolant (P/N 999MP-AF0009 - dark green), which was originally used by Nissan in my '05 Xterra. Later model Xterras were filled at the factory with Nissan Blue Long Life Coolant (P/N 999MP-L25500P), but I prefer to change my coolant more frequently than once every 105,000 miles/7 years as specified for "long life" coolants so the less expensive "regular" dark green Nissan coolant works for me.
Capacity: 2 3/4 gal. mixed 50/50 with distilled water if packaging not marked pre-mixed.

Brake Fluid
Any quality DOT 3 brake fluid. Always use a fresh container because brake fluid absorbs moisture.

Power Steering Fluid
Any quality Power Steering fluid.
Note that the Nissan FSM for Canadian Xterras states that one can use Dexron III/Mercon ATF
 

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Crofton, Thanks. It seems like there are various coolant change methods, and I am getting a bit confused.

I found this YouTube video on how to drain and fill - seems like this guy is just doing it via the reservoir whereas others are filling the radiator directly and trying to make sure there are no bubbles.

Will this YouTube method work as well?
IMHO... he isn't doing a complete fluid change. He is only draining out 1 gallon and then refilling it. Also, again my opinion, he has no idea how the Xterra heating/cooling system actually works. He turns on the heater so the fluid flows through it? It does that anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Mr. Bills.

mikidymac - Thanks. That sounds like what I will go ahead and do. Should I worry right now that the coolant level is below min? Perhaps don't drive the vehicle until I get all my coolant supplies in?

Also, I am looking at radiator caps.

Are you (or anyone else out here) by any chance aware that radiator caps changed for 2012+?

NissanPartsDeal is showing different types of caps for my 2012 P4X than a 2011; I was thinking of getting Stant ones (10233 & 10264) for $16 shipped for both the reservoir and the rad, but I am looking at something like $44 shipped for two OEM caps (rad & reservoir).

Thanks again.
 

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Caps from the local parts store will work just fine, no need for OEM. Stant is a well established brand. Caps were the same from 05-15.

If your coolant level is low and it concerns you, just add some distilled water to get you by until maintenance day. Tap water is okay too because it will be in the system such a short time, but there are purists who would object even to a short exposure to the minerals in ordinary water so I list that option second.
 

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Here are the crush washers I have always purchased for both of my Xs:

1980-2016 Nissan 10pcs. Lower Oil Pan Drain Plug Crush Washer Gasket OEM NEW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3Y6JEX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_JX-RFb80ED6WW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Hi all,

Looking to change out the fluids on a new to me 2nd Gen X, first time working with a Nissan, and a 4x4 truck no less. Only have a few oil changes under my belt on sedans, and one transmission oil change.

I just wanted to make sure I had everything correct, could you guys let me know if I'm missing anything? I think my biggest question is if the oil plug gasket I have linked below is correct, and if that is the same as the crush washer.

Engine
1. 5W-30 (Castol Edge High Mileage)
2. Oil Filter
3. Oil Plug Gasket (same as crush washer? - Dorman 097-134)

Automatic Transmission Fluid
1. Matic-S ATF (10 7/8 qt)
2. Oil Plug Gasket (same as engine oil?)

Transfer Case
1. Matic-D or equivalent (2 1/8 qt)
2. Oil Plug Gasket (same as engine oil?)

Other
1. Torque Wrench
2. Funnels

Thanks in advance.
 

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I think some had issues with the aftermarket radiator caps and to only use OEM but I might be thinking thermostat.

For sure make sure you use the cap with no spring on the radiator and the one with the spring on the tank, don’t get it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hmm, I just got back from a trip and was able to open my caps for the first time. I just realized maybe I've been overzealous in planning to change all these fluids on a new/used car. These caps and liquid look pretty clean to me, perhaps I shouldn't touch it?

Thanks again.

IMG_9178.JPG IMG_9177.JPG IMG_9176.JPG IMG_9172.JPG
 

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I typically "baseline" the maintenance of any used vehicle, especially if I have no service records to confirm what was done and when.

Its a judgment call.
 
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