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Discussion Starter #1
I've been in this business for almost 10 years now and I truly believe it's because I've let the customer have an active roll in the design and development of every product. I have no problem with admitting I'm wrong or made a mistake and am continually learning new things every single day.

So now that quite a few sliders have shipped out and are being used and hopefully abused...I'd like to hear back on likes/dislikes as well as suggestions for improvement.

One thing I wanted to know is everyone happy with the distance they are at in terms of how far they stick out?
 

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I don't have a set (yet). I think the one item that makes me hesitate is the mounting bracket design requiring ~12 holes to be drilled into each frame rail. I know this is a concern that's been voiced in the past and I'm just curious to know if other options are being explored.

Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No pain, no gain.:pirate:

Just kidding.

Is the concern with the effort involved or something else? Just want to be clear.
 

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AJ I think the main concern is that the shrock sliders only require one hole to be drilled as opposed to 12. I trust that your design can stand up to the same punishment, but the thoughts of drilling my frame into swiss cheese is not all that appealing. I may just be speaking for myself, but that seems to be the "fear factor" for most.
 

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AJ I think the main concern is that the shrock sliders only require one hole to be drilled as opposed to 12. I trust that your design can stand up to the same punishment, but the thoughts of drilling my frame into swiss cheese is not all that appealing. I may just be speaking for myself, but that seems to be the "fear factor" for most.
Yep, that's what I'm referring to. Not afraid of a little hard work :iconbiggrin:

Jake
 

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They each are their own designs.

I don't see the problem with it. The mounts are sturdy, the holes are spread out and there are three of them, which to me I would think spreads the weight out more.

I also didn't want to wait 6 months and pay more to get sliders. I also like the square look.
 

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I drilled the holes and I have no concerns. First it only goes through half the frame, second, the frame is solid!

AJ, the SSq's seem a little short to me. I don't know if you really could make them a couple inches longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is a lot to drill but from a manufacturing point of view it's the K.I.S.S. principle. The more complex you build something, the higher the price usually is. That and we wanted these mounts to work with other models of Nissan's which so far is working out great. Even working on a few Toyotas too.

In terms of it doing any damage or causing any sort of structural integrity issues, definitely not a problem. With the fully boxed frame it would take a lot...I mean A LOT to cause a problem. If the frames were "C" type, open on the backside, I'd be leary about that many holes.

Maybe what we could look at it doing is finding a happy medium. Possibly capture an existing hole in the front and one in the rear. That would make the installation a little easier too so that it could be held in place by these two point while the other holes were marked.
 

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Hello AJ - Only prob I could see is if capturing some holes on the toyotas & some on the nissans (making it more universal), it might start swiss cheesing the mounts on the sliders. I don't know. There's 12 on each side now, correct?

How large are the screws used with your sliders? My concern there is that when bolting thru you have a nut/washers on the back, therefore it seems less likely to pull out than a screw. Although, I know you probably more than overcome that issue by using 12 fasteners. Just my thoughts.
 

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Why not go with nuts and bolts through the frame and just go with less fasteners?

I do understand you wanting to keep it simple to build, that way you can make them faster and charge less. But I am sold on the Shrockworks mounting method for sliders.
 

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^^ that brings up a good point. The boxed frame allows thinner material to be used (I was kinda surprised when drilling thru it). Notice the one factory threaded hole used on the rear mount of the Shrock slider (I assume that is used by the factory step rails) - metal wasn't thick enough so even Nissan welded a nut on the back of it from the factory.
 

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AJ I think the main concern is that the shrock sliders only require one hole to be drilled as opposed to 12. I trust that your design can stand up to the same punishment, but the thoughts of drilling my frame into swiss cheese is not all that appealing. I may just be speaking for myself, but that seems to be the "fear factor" for most.
When doing my coil spacer lift the other day I looked at the frame rail in the front fenderwell. I counted 7 LARGE holes in the frame just in that section.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why not go with nuts and bolts through the frame and just go with less fasteners?

I do understand you wanting to keep it simple to build, that way you can make them faster and charge less. But I am sold on the Shrockworks mounting method for sliders.
Going through the frame is really difficult to install. To do it right the customer would need to drill through it straight (hard enough) then put a sleeve in there to keep it from collapsing. Now the Nissan's frame isn't that flimsy but over time and some good hits on the rails could distort it just enough to loosen the hardware. Putting a plate on the backside sounds good, but there again you'd be left with trying to line up the drill perfectly. Add to that all the gas/brake/electrical lines and the fuel tank on the one side to contend with....makes for a real PITA.

^^ that brings up a good point. The boxed frame allows thinner material to be used (I was kinda surprised when drilling thru it). Notice the one factory threaded hole used on the rear mount of the Shrock slider (I assume that is used by the factory step rails) - metal wasn't thick enough so even Nissan welded a nut on the back of it from the factory.
Being a Cherokee guy for a very LONG time you should see the difference in framerail thicknesses. Granted the Cherokee is unibody, but their framerails are about half as thick...if that. When I saw how thick it was on the Xterras it made me more confident this setup would work.
 

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I was talking to my buddy about this post I made and he told me what an idiot I am. He's of the thinking that it makes me look unsure of my product and undermines myself, that I should go with the thinking..."this is the way it is, take it or leave it." :dontknow:

Definitely not how I operate and I think that's arrogant thinking. The first design I came up with for the Cherokee Rockrails worked just fine...but wow they've changed completely since then. And that's been due to customer's input over the years. Granted the current design hasn't changed for 6 years, but if someone came up with a good suggestion I'd have no problem making them different.

I looked at some threaded inserts at one point, just didn't seem practical with the specialized tools needed. Thought we could do an exchange program though. While the current setup may work just fine I would like to find a way to cut down the installation time and hardware. So I'll definitely be looking at using some of the factory holes and even the body mounts. If we could do an "L" shaped bracket next to one of those that would also cut down on the amount of fasteners needed just like our XJ rails do on the rear mount. Appreciate the input!
 

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How about a U bracket. I used to be a Toy guys and since most Toyotas have C-channel frame, this was a common way to mount sliders. No drilling. Just 2 bolts at the top of each bracket.



 

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How about a U bracket. I used to be a Toy guys and since most Toyotas have C-channel frame, this was a common way to mount sliders. No drilling. Just 2 bolts at the top of each bracket.



Awesome, awesome idea. It's not that drilling holes is difficult, it just seems like extra work to me, and if I decide to sell the truck, i dont want all those holes. I dont have much faith that a resale will be better with sliders.
One thing I was thinking about for myself is getting floor plate and drilling/tapping holes on the super squares so that its more of a step. I only have a tiny need for sliders and like the step more. Only issue I see is that it might be a tad narrow. Its a more fab work and opposite of KISS but I like it
 
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