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I'm not trying to create problems here, but feel I need to share this as others may have the same problem. I'm not going to say anything negative yet and will wait until I can talk to them to resolve. See the pic of my diff cover below, somehow the cover was welded to the flange upside down, it also doesn't appear to be hi fill, which I requested and also the threads for the fill plug are a bit messed up and the plug only goes half way in. Hoping I have the only bad one, but others should check. I'm just disappointed, I was really looking forward to getting this installed today before the Nexterra group ride on Saturday. I'll post updates if there any.

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Doesn't look like the cover was welded to the flange upside down, just the skull. X2 on the tappered plug.
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Yeah , may be just the skull, the fill plug looks lower too compared to some others. Thanks for the info on the tapered plug, some of the threads were a bit f'd up also.

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The internal welds on mine have significant porosity, which in my case was not bad enough to warrant complaining about, as the exterior welds were much better and sufficiently seal the cover.

I have shown my cover to several people and the poor welds on the inside caught the attention of everyone, without my pointing it out. This includes my Dad, a welding technician that specifically analyses weld quality, 2 engineers I work with, and a machinist. Granted, the people I showed it to are all a bit more knowledgeable on fabrication than average, so would be a bit harder on them. None of them were particularly impressed with my covers build quality.

I also ordered a standard fill, and got a high fill. Again, this was not a big enough issue for me to complain about, I'm cool with a hi fill, but it shows a lack of attention to detail.

Overall, I'm not really impressed with BF as a shop. They do adequate, but not excellent, as least on my order. I could nitpick and say, hey, this isn't what I ordered, and there are holes in your welds, but, I too cut some slack. My cover looks good on the outside, and would not be structurally compromised by only the interior welds being porous, so it's fine.

I hate to hear there are some more serious issues. BF does not have a good track record, but from what I could tell they reached a turning point a while back, sort of come around, and were again getting good reviews. I took a chance in good faith that they needed more positive reviews, and as a result might be trying hard to make a good impression on a new market that hasn't been aware of their previous mistakes.
 

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I got the wrong bolts with mine so I had to use the stock ones. I called today and spoke to Alex and he said they would send the correct ones and Email me the tracking, this was at 1:30pm and I thought they would have sent them today. Also, make sure you guys get all the slag out of the inside, mine had a lot. It comes of fairly easy and you for sure do not want it coming off inside your diff.

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I ordered a high fill and received a high fill. The cover looked to be "okay." Here's a list of things I found and had to remedy. Keep in mind that I'm a mechanical engineer that does a lot of solid modeling, so I'm going to nit pick, keeping in mind that this is their "Rev A", and there's always bugs here and there.

-significant slag and flux on the inside of the cover that I had to clean out. Also noticed the popped welds on the inside with holes. Fortunately, the outside welds looked much better.

-the "counterbores" for the bolt heads were too close to the flange perimeter and some of them broke through to the edge, creating some sharp edges. Recommend either making the flange bigger or not counterboring the holes at all.

-My cover, as shipped, didn't fit. The inside welds on the flange interfered with the preload lock tabs in my diff. I had to move my lock tabs inwards to clear the diff cover. Since the cover has a post-op of machining the flange flat, recommend running a 45 degree cutter around the perimeter and putting a nice chamfer on the inside. At a minimum, chamfer the left and right sides.

-The ring gear bolt heads are VERY close to hitting the inside edge of the fill hole bung. So close that I was ready to hear it hit during my test drive. That's scary. The fill hole should be moved slightly left to clear better, or moved to the right side where there's tons of room. Weld the skull somewhere else.

-black oxide bolts? C'mon. After dipping these in water once, they'll be rusty as hell. Some nice grade 8 zinc bolts would have been nice, which is exactly what I went out and bought instead.

With a few small tweaks, this will be a very nice product.


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What gets me the most is the pictures and video of all that fancy machinery and yet we have these problems. The other odd thing is I got bolts for the m226 when I bought the C200k cover and there were 10 bolts in the bag, the m226 takes 12 and the C200k has 8.

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why are you cutting them slack? It sounds like a crappy fabrication company that has no business making these items, or even being in business. Good customer service does not make up for a poor product. Unlike some companies with superior products, poor customer service can be tolerated since you would have no doubt in the product working.
 

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They make a LOT of racing and off-road stuff that looks to be very well built. The problems with the product seem to be normal, since this is there first run of them, but the whole "sending people the wrong version" thing is unacceptable.


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The problems with the product seem to be normal, since this is there first run of themSent from AutoGuide.com App
So shoddy workmanship is ok for you on a first run? I could understand fitment issues with a 1st run, but workmanship has nothing to do with a 1st run. You either know how to weld, or you don't. Sounds like they don't.
 

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Well this thread is a great "buyer beware"

You would think for a first run they would be double, triple checking everything since they are presenting a first impression. Repeated incorrect products and metal slag is unacceptable.
 

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MainerX, did you use a gasket like the Mag-hytec or sealant on the mating surfaces?

I'm not familiar with the internals of the diff. In your opinion, would a gasket make any difference in clearance issues you encountered?

I had no plans to use a gasket, and frankly I think this should be a bolt on part so it should have been designed as such. But assuming I were to use a gasket, do you think the clearance issues would be alleviated?

I'm not sure how thick those gaskets are, if it's anything like a reusable oil pan gasket I've used, it would bump it out .010 or maybe more.
 

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I used Permatex "The Right Stuff," gray. It's quicker setting, which allows you to fill the diff right away. However, I had the Mag-Hytec on my Frontier and it's not very thick. In this case, it would not have been thick enough to alleviate the issue.


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How far should the fill plug go in? This is how far mine goes in (with some added torque - two more threads were out without it):







And I can see the holes in some of the welds others were talking about:





Hopefully things fit well. I just primed it tonight, painting this week and mounting next weekend. The cover is pretty heavy-duty. I am not sure if the holes in some of the welds on the inside matter as I am no expert when it comes to welding.
 

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How far should the fill plug go in? This is how far mine goes in (with some added torque - two more threads were out without it):







And I can see the holes in some of the welds others were talking about:





Hopefully things fit well. I just primed it tonight, painting this week and mounting next weekend. The cover is pretty heavy-duty. I am not sure if the holes in some of the welds on the inside matter as I am no expert when it comes to welding.
Mine went in all the way about 1/16 past flush. You can try the stock plug, they are the same or at least mine was.

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