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Discussion Starter #1
Well I installed the rear part of my lift about a week ago with no problems, everything went smooth, today was the first day I had a change to try installing the front and have ran into some problems, this is my first time working with cars and I dont know names for everything yet so bear with me on describing the problem...

The completed side (passenger)


I'm pretty sure that everything is done correct on this side...

This is as far as I have gotten on the drivers side...



Heres where everything has kind of gotten tough...



The end of the spring thing there is this bolt, I'm not sure what to do about it, it seems as though its in there rock solid, so far to try and fix it I have tried WD 40, liquid wrench, torque wrench, power tools, heat gun... I've tried everything and it wont budge so I'm beginning to think something else is wrong... does anything look out of the ordinary or anything? Any suggestions on how to fix it?


Right there the ball joint wont drop either, again I have tried many things to get it to come loose but I'm not sure why it wont budge.


If you can help me please dont throw words at me I wont understand, I'm still new to working on cars and need everything in noob terms, thanks. :)
 

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i found that if i use the jack and press up the end of the torque wrench it will actually get more force and break the hold on the bolt


since your truck should be on jack stands your jack should be free to do this.

oh, and wd-40 worked very well for me, i just had to let it sit for a few minutes.
 

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This should work:

willgr1 said:
oh, and for the UCA to spindle joint, re-thread the nut to the edge of the bolt and tap it with a hammer, it should pop up.
If not, go to Autozone and get a free loaner puller.

Hope this help:



For the shock bolt, I attach a 6-foot galvanized pipe to the wrench, that should give you lots of torque.
 

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Just an update... I broke the seal finally using the stock step rails I pulled off the end and used it to torque it out. Unfortunately I couldnt get the ball joint popped off so me and my dad tried to work around it... sadly the joint busted and it was a big greasy mess so now I'm without an X for several days :(
 

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Ouch, this is why having the proper tools makes things nice.

Few pointers.

Do not use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. It throws the calibration way off. If you need leverage, get yourself a 18" breaker bar and a 3' piece of pipe to fit over it (call it a persuader). This is safe and doesn't break things.

As for the ball joint. Usually the nut and hammer trick works. It's best to use a dead blow hammer so you don't screw up the threads.

And to free bolts, there is nothing better than PB Blaster. WD40 is great as a lubricant, but PB Blaster will run circles around it as a penetrating oil.
 

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Atom said:
Just an update... I broke the seal finally using the stock step rails I pulled off the end and used it to torque it out. Unfortunately I couldnt get the ball joint popped off so me and my dad tried to work around it... sadly the joint busted and it was a big greasy mess so now I'm without an X for several days :(
If you need a new UCA w/balljoint I got one floatin' around if you pay shipping.
 

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Muzikman said:
Ouch, this is why having the proper tools makes things nice.

Few pointers.

Do not use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. It throws the calibration way off. If you need leverage, get yourself a 18" breaker bar and a 3' piece of pipe to fit over it (call it a persuader). This is safe and doesn't break things.
I was going to say the same thing, yikes!
When I did my lift, the pass. side lower strut bolt was a PITA too. I ended up using a breaker bar with a ~3foot pipe over it. I bent the breaker bar, but got the nut off!
 

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Muzikman said:
Ouch, this is why having the proper tools makes things nice.

Few pointers.

Do not use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. It throws the calibration way off. If you need leverage, get yourself a 18" breaker bar and a 3' piece of pipe to fit over it (call it a persuader). This is safe and doesn't break things.

As for the ball joint. Usually the nut and hammer trick works. It's best to use a dead blow hammer so you don't screw up the threads.

And to free bolts, there is nothing better than PB Blaster. WD40 is great as a lubricant, but PB Blaster will run circles around it as a penetrating oil.
Agreed. A good torque wrench is way too expensive to be using for a breaker bar, esp. when you can pick up an 18" or 24" for, what, $20-30 bucks? A decent torque wrench is going to run $70+. I always get nervous when I hear guys using them for breaker bars. I don't even like putting too much strain on a 1/2" ratchet (broken one of those before).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah the torque wrench actually did break, and that would be awesome if you guys could hook me up with one!
 
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