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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is my situation. I put on a new rear axle about 2ish weeks ago. Since then I have not been able to get the rear brakes to function.

I know the correct sequence, I have it saved on my phone so I can go through the steps without hassle. Disconnect the batt. RR, LF, LR, RF.

I have no air coming out, a steady stream but the pedal still goes to the floor to stop the truck after I reconnect the batt and start it up. The rear brakes do not seem to be working what so ever. VDC/ABLS has no effect on the rear tires when they spin, I tested it.

What else could be the issue be? I had no problems before putting on the new axle. The lines do not have any leaks, the master cylinder has been topped off a handful of times after bleeding. The pedal literally needs to go to the floor to stop the truck. When the brakes are pumped I can not see any movement on the rear calipers.

The stream of fluid from the front compared to the rear is much more and has more pressure to it as it flows out but I imagine this is normal since the front brakes have a larger stopping capacity.

EDIT...

also, following the sequence really burns through fluid because I have to do the fronts all though the fronts are working fine and they push out the most fluid. I really can not just do the rears? The thing is, how do I know how much fluid is supposed to come out when I open the valve on the rear? The discharge just does not seem the strong compared to the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Friend and I just went out and ran through the motions again. Pedal seemed to firm up a little more with the batt disconnected.

Tell me if this is normal protocol. The brake pedal gets somewhat firm when it is depressed and pumped up with the batt disconnected. When I bleed the rears, the resistance on the rear stays the same, but when I bleed the front, all resistance fades off the pedal. I still have next to no stopping power being diverted to the rear calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You just sent him to his own threads?

Have you been able to watch the calipers compress with the wheels off?

So you are getting pedal drop when you open the rears?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

People do that a lot on these forums ^

Anyway, no I get no pedal drop when the rear brakes are opened. What does this tell me?

I'm still waiting for the wise wizard to direct me to the brake bleeding sequence posted here. It's bound to happen haha.
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You just sent him to his own threads?

Have you been able to watch the calipers compress with the wheels off?

So you are getting pedal drop when you open the rears?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
I sent him his own threads because this is his third time posting about the same problem. And he obviously doesnt read because is the other threads it says to disconnect the neg from the battery to begin with, something he only just did.
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I sent him his own threads because this is his third time posting about the same problem. And he obviously doesnt read because is the other threads it says to disconnect the neg from the battery to begin with, something he only just did.
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And you are obviously a wise wizard far beyond your days, thanks so so much for reminding me to read, I completely forgot I was supposed to do that on these forums........but......I am fairly certain I have been following the sequence from the second time through. What I am dying to know is what kind, and how long is the stick stuck up your ass?

Anywho.. I still have zero pressure being applied to the rear brakes. I have bled them 6-7 times. I put the X on a lift today as I swapped out the front diff, put it in drive and the brakes barely stopped the rear tires spinning at idle.

I dont know really what else to do. Should we be pumping up the pedal 4-5 times between opening and closing the bleed valve? I have never had such a problem bleeding brakes before. I do not think any air is in the system...no bubbles are coming out from any side. The only thing odd is the amount of fluid that does come out, it doesnt seem to have much pressure behind it on the rear calipers.

Shoudl I try sending a bottle of fluid through each caliper? I am at a dead end here with ideas.
 

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If I get time tomorrow at work I'll look on our snap-on scan tool if the xterra uses the abs to bleed the brakes with the scan tool. Some vehicles we work on require using the scan tool to bleed the brakes with abs modules. I haven't had to do any brake lines on an xterra yet. But if you let the brake fluid get to low when bleeding you might want to try bleeding out your master cylinder first then re-bleed the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If I get time tomorrow at work I'll look on our snap-on scan tool if the xterra uses the abs to bleed the brakes with the scan tool. Some vehicles we work on require using the scan tool to bleed the brakes with abs modules. I haven't had to do any brake lines on an xterra yet. But if you let the brake fluid get to low when bleeding you might want to try bleeding out your master cylinder first then re-bleed the brakes.
Awesome man, please check back. Otherwise I am scheduling my first appointment at a nissan stealer ship to get this thing fixed.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Discussion Starter #12
I finally figured it out! FYI, if you buy a new axle with the calipers already attached....make sure they are on the right side!

LOL...I was down looking at everything again when I noticed this R stamped near the top of the caliper which was on the left side of the axle. Then I noticed the bleed valve was under the brake line....then I connected the dots.

swapped'em around, bled it once and the peddle feels better then it ever has! Effin'A right cotton. No wonder it was all outta whack.
 

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Glad to see you figured it out! It always feels good to figure something out on your own. And FYI the xterra doesn't have an abs bleed through a scan tool.
 

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Glad to see you figured it out! It always feels good to figure something out on your own. And FYI the xterra doesn't have an abs bleed through a scan tool.
Why do you have to disconnect the neg bat terminal when you bleed the brakes, with the key off?
 

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It's a bit overkill. Most recommend to bleed with the key off due to the ABS and risk of damaging the pump. I do it with the key off. Doesn't hurt anything and is safer to disconnect the battery as well.

You are also supposed to crack open the bleeder when compressing the pistons. You don't want to force back flow of brake fluid through the ABS pump.
 

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It's a bit overkill. Most recommend to bleed with the key off due to the ABS and risk of damaging the pump. I do it with the key off. Doesn't hurt anything and is safer to disconnect the battery as well.

You are also supposed to crack open the bleeder when compressing the pistons. You don't want to force back flow of brake fluid through the ABS pump.
Well, I did the brake bleeding procedure, without pulling the neg terminal.

I had the ignition off. (might have had it turned to acc for radio, but not to start position.

Fluid was fairly dirty, but looks like someone might have bled the system before because of marks on the bleeder valves.

I bled each side in proper sequence (RR, FL, RL, RF):
At initial pedal when I first cranked it, the pedal sunk a good ways down, but not all the way to the floor. (normal?)

After, I drove and it seemed a little better, especially on highway speed stopping, but the pedal is still spongy.

Front pads are wore more than the rears, but still have a decent amount on them.
102k miles on the truck.

Normal?
 

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Took the truck on a drive this morning. Brakes are working fine now. It stops better now. Maybe the new fluid unloosed some sticking calipers? idk, thank God it's fine. We dont need this kind of trouble now.
 
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