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Discussion Starter #1
Spacer/shackle install has been thoroughly covered here by others (see MC's Daystar thread for example) so I wont got into details. I did run into a few issues worth mentioning though:

1) The A-arm did not want to let go of the ball joint at all. Tried the hammer method (including a 10 lbs BFH) to no avail. Then I used an air chisel with a fork attachment which only managed to get sideways and poke a hole in the lower boot of the ball joint. More on that later. At this point I thought I would try installing the strut/spacer combo without having the A-arm disconnected. Yeah right... don't waste your time. Finally I got my hands on a Pitman arm puller. Worked perfect and only took about 10 sec. Drivers side = 2.5 hrs and jacked up boot; Passenger side = 15 min with no issues.

2) The UCA totally (yes I said it) hits the coil bucket. I noticed that the UCA was sitting on the bucket with just the tires suspended. If I were to actually off-road this thing anytime in the near future I would have a set of TC's on order. As it is, my wife will only be using the truck for light use over the next 14 months so I'm not going to worry about it now. When I pulled out of the shop after the lift was on there was a pothole that allowed the front right to drop and bang, there it was. By time I made it to Firestone to drop the truck off for alignment (~6 mi all pavement) there were two nice little marks, one on each side, on the coil bucket from contact on both sides. Not only do I not like the idea of notching/grinding down the stock UCA's, I also don't think it would work. There is quite a bit of travel in the stock OR strut and the coil bucket is acting like a bump stop limiting downward travel. A guy would have to take out an inch or more of metal from the UCA to clear and I'm sure thats got to weaken the overall integrity of the component. So for now it stays as is. If I notice the knock is significant I might just pull the lift :(

3) Another option for removing shackles: air chisel with a pin punch type attachment. Place it against the shackle, apply a little pressure and let'er rip. Shackle pops right out. Props to Speedy_Parker for the C-clamp idea for reinstallation. With an extra pair of hands its pretty easy to line everything up this way. If one were working by themselves I think MC's bottle jack method may be perfered for more control.

4) Air tools ROCK!

And I'll close with a question:

Does anyone know if I can replace that boot on the lower part of the upper ball joint? The tear is about 1/8" to 1/4" but isn't a gaping hole. It'll be fine for awhile but if I can fix it cheap I'd like to. I know captandy was told he needed to purchase a whole new UCA and if thats the case then I'll just let it dry out and die on its own. Once the joint is kaput I can easily convince my wife that we "need" the TC's. :cheers:

Pics to come soon. The X is sitting at FS waiting for an alignment so I'll pick her up tonight though it'll be too dark for pics so it will most likely be this weekend.
 

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i ripped one too,and nissan only sells the entire UCA and balljoint combo..yhey dont come apart..99$...I dont think the rip will do TOO much .a little drier after time..new one LATER....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good call, thats my plan as well. To extend the lifespan you can always inject a little grease once in awhile via a syringe.
 

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Leave the how to! There are risks when screwing around with your suspension. There are reasons why it didn't come lifted from the factory. I had little hickups in my install, but that was half of the fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Definitely leave the how-to!!!! I completely understand the risk I take when starting to mess with my rigs. Been a backyard wrench for a long time and have made much worse mistakes. There is a learning curve for us amateurs but that should be well understood by anyone attempting to do their own work. My wife gives me grief about not going to a certified mechanic for things. She likes to point out that I wouldn't expect the average Joe to do his own infectious disease diagnosis so why should I expect to do my own wrenching. Well it comes down to the simple Man-Law of "because I can." Well try at least. Mistakes happen along the way and there is nobody to blame but myself. MC your write up was great and very informative. Ruining the lower boot was my own fault. I saw the air chisel working its way around but instead of pulling out then I kept thinking "damn, this things got to pop eventually!" When I got the right tool for the job, aka pitman puller, it was simple, safe and dare I say satisfying. If anything perhaps add a bit regarding the pitman arm puller as an effective means to release a frozen ball joint from the A-arm.

linky http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...T|1/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=pitman

In and ever expanding list of dumbass moves.... it seems the knocking sound I heard last night was due to the hood not being completely secured. It seems that in my haste to be done at the shop (they were closing) I forgot that I had opened the hood but neglected to close it entirely. After I picked the truck up from FS today I noticed the knock was still present which bothered me. Well we pulled in for some dinner and I was admiring the aggressive new stance when it hit me that there was a rather large gap between the hood and front end. Closed the hood hit some good sized pot holes and no knock. There are little marks on the coil bucket (pics pending) from the UCA's but perhaps its not as serious as I originally thought. Yup, I'm an idiot.
 

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Bio-
Don't worry about it. When I was installing my lift there were only 2 other people that lifted their X's at the time and I needed help! Luckily Dan and MC came to the rescue. Learning is part of the game. Luckily we have great guys around here like Dan and MC that are willing to help and be the first to try things.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I completely agree. This site has been great since its initiation (I'm #18). Don't post as much as I would like but pretty much visit on a daily basis when I can.

Pics as promised. Here's the X with 2" PRG, AC shackle and 265/75R16. The rear sits a little low for my tastes so I'm in the process of hunting down a way to go up another 1".







more at http://community.webshots.com/user/bioman06
 

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I keep thinking to leave the X stock ('cept the shrock bars and timbrens), but damn..the X looks right up a little higher. I have decided to stay on 265's for now.

I like it..be sure to follow up on the rear lift solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've decided just to leave it as I don't know of a quick and easy way to get the additional inch. If we had a spring over rear end a simple block would do it but thats not the case. Heading to the desert real soon and plan to do TC's/coilovers up front and Alcans in the rear when I get back next summer. If I were going to stick with this setup I would probably either try the Deaver packs or just go with custom Alcans. Personally I haven't been a fan of the stock springs anyway. Just my two pennies.
 
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