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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, so for my third "how to" I will try to my best to breakdown the steps of installing PRG's UCAs and their heavy duty Rad Flow Coilover shocks.

I did this install by myself so I was not able to take photos during some of the very intense parts that involved both of my hands and my brain. Also, some photos may appear out of order or "chronovisually" incorrect. I compiled the photos after both sides of the install.


Step 1:

Jack up the truck and get it on jack stands to support the weight and give you room to work. In an ideal world, having a real lift in a heated garage would be nice, but this is not always an ideal world. Now, take off both front tires and let the fun begin. It also helps to have a can PB Blaster and spray down ever nut and area you plan on removing or loosening. I do this about an hour before I start any job.



Step 2:

Locate and remove the 2 sway bar links on both sides of the front suspension. You need to loosen both sides so you can swing it out of the way.



OK, so now you can get started on removing the old suspension components. Start by loosening the UCA from the spindle. First you want to remove the cotter pin that sits in the nut of the Spindle.



Next, you'll want to support the spindle and hub with a jack or something similar because it will drop once you remove the UCA bolt from the spindle.

I also like to use a strap to tie the spindle off so it won't spin.



Step 3:

Loose and remove the bolt on the lower shock mount that attaches it to the LCA (Lower Control Arm).



Once the bottom is loose then you get removed the 3 nuts holding the top of the shock strut to the coil bucket.



Now, I had tightened these nuts when I installed my Top Gun Spacers and they were on there pretty good so I had to upgrade from a regular ratchet to a breaker bar.

On side note, Mcampana thinks breaker bars are for "pussies," so proceed with caution. He (thinks) he is the strongest man in the world.



Here you can see the top of the shock off.


Now, because I had the spacers on top of the shock, there was not enough room to get it out. I had to remove the tie rod to make enough room to get it out.

As shown here.


Step 4:

Install the new Radflow Shocks, bottom first.

Pay close attention to the order of the hardware on the bottom shock mount. From left to right it should be [Bolt End-Shock Mount-Washer-Spacer-Shock-Spacer-Washer-Shock Mount-Nut]



Next, attach the top 3 nuts and torque to spec.




Step 5:

Install the PRG UCA (Upper Control Arm)

Now, it is time to remove the stock UCA. On the driver's side you will have to use a hack saw or a reciprocating saw to cut the right UCA bolt out. The reason for this is because the bolt will hit the tie rod assembly and not have enough room to be pulled out. I used a SawzAll and it worked out just fine.

If you want, you can take the time to detach the tie rod assembly under the boot. I have been told it can be done in 10 minutes, but I did not use this option.



Here we have a nicely removed UCA.


Step 6:

Install the new PRG UCA. The UCAs should be installed with the bump stop facing down and closest to the rear of the vehicle. Start with the top two mounts and then finish with the shiny new UniBall mount that connects to the spindle.



Pay close attention to the order that UniBall enters the spindle.


The Final result


Now reconnect that sway bar and put your tires back on. You should be done and have a fancy, and improved PRG front suspension.

Well I just measured and I have a front height of 22" from the center of the wheel hub.

Before - 19.5"
After - 22"

Difference of 2.5"

I should still be able to adjust the Radlfows up another half inch up front if I so desire, but I don't think I will.

Go get yourself an alignment and enjoy the results!
 

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Looks great, and I'm sure it rides even better!
Nice right-up as usual.
BTW- Brent was throughly impressed with your truck, thanks for hooking him up with your old spacers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
PrerunnerGreg said:
Steve, great pictorial. Give me a ring tomorrow and ill get you a bunch of stickers and such.
Will do Greg and thanks! This setup rides great and I can't wait to test it offroad.

stevet47 said:
Looks great, and I'm sure it rides even better!
Nice right-up as usual.
BTW- Brent was throughly impressed with your truck, thanks for hooking him up with your old spacers!
Yea, it was dark when I dropped off the spacers to Brent, but I tried to show him as much as I could with my tiny LED flashlight. Thank you for getting him touch with me.
 

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I tried to get the washers in the way you have them on the lower shock mount but just could not get everything to fit in there. I was going to bend the tabs out to fit everything but i called Greg and he said it was fine the way i had them. I only could get one washer in there and the other was on the outside. Maybe when i get the shock off to have them revalved, ill try again to put it correctly. What could go wrong by not having them in the correct order? I hope nothing serious.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't think anything will necessarily go wrong by having the washers on the outside of the shock bracket.

I had to do some clever cramming and moving to get all the pieces to fit properly. To be honest it took a while and was frustrating.

I believe the reasoning for the washers on the interior is to keep those spacers snug against the shocks.

Greg knows best, so if he says it's ok then I trust him.
 

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Sounds good. You have some kick ass directions man! Keep em up!
 

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No cotter pin on the uniball bolt?

I would have removed the UCA ball joint and removed the shock as apposed to the tie-rod end.

Other than that, great write up.

EDIT: Oh, and keep in mind that the stock nuts on the top of the shock SUCK. If you have not removed them before and you got some miles on the X, you might need a nut splitter to get them off. After about 30K miles, when I went to replace my shocks I has to split one nut on each side to get them off.
 

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hendrixfan said:
Another great write up...I may just feel comfortable enough to try it myself when the time comes.
Well, it's not fast, and if the lowwer shock bolts can be be removed, without grinding, it's not difficult.

If one is looking for a sportier suspension, then PRG has the goods, and the cost is low for this quality of suspension upgrade.

Patrick
 

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IZVERG Posted that question back in 2008.
 
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