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I didn't want to dig up and revive a hijacked thread about painting your skid plates. I found the pictures I took of my rock sliders that I preped and painted with 2 coats of POR-15 and 2 coats of a POR Topcoat paint. I am pretty frustrated that the POR-15 flaked off after one winter of use and for all the steps of prep and coats of paint.

Here is a shot of the whole rock slider.



Here is a close up of the rear part where I noticed paint flaking off.



I hope you can see that is not a result of wheeling. I had not wheeled with the sliders on the Xterra at that point. Snow had accumulated there during winter driving but I paid it no mind because POR-15 is supposed to be indestructable.

I have since wheeled with my Xterra and scratched up the underside pretty well. I removed the sliders to sand them down and re-paint them before this coming winter.

I am open to suggestions on what to use if anyone has had a positive experience with a product. I am considering Herculiner, but I am not sure if it will stick to the POR-15 or if I should give POR-15 another shot.
 

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Herculiner should not flake off, but it will scape off. That being said, Por-15 shouldn't have flaked off either. Is that the only place that it flaked off? If so, I am betting there was grease or oil on that spot of the slider.

I still stand behind Por-15 and say it's one of the houghest coatings for steel.
 

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mtdewmike said:
How about powdercoating?
Powdercoating scraps off too. My sliders have some nice lines of rust in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Muzikman said:
Herculiner should not flake off, but it will scape off. That being said, Por-15 shouldn't have flaked off either. Is that the only place that it flaked off? If so, I am betting there was grease or oil on that spot of the slider.

I still stand behind Por-15 and say it's one of the houghest coatings for steel.
I washed them twice with marine clean because I purchased 2 super starter packs and had 2 marine clean bottles. The Por-15 flaked off on the other side too, just not as bad. When I removed the sliders to scrape and sand, the front face of the square mounting arm didn't hold all that well. I was able to scrape off some paint from that arm which is directly behind the front tire.

Muzikman have you applied Por-15 on something yourself? You keep asserting Por-15 is great but I haven't seen you list any examples. It is possible that I did something was wrong that the Por-15 flaked off my sliders, I can admit that. But I am listing an actual example of a failed application that I believe I did correctly. If you have a counter example that would be great for us to read. You get snow in PA, how did your stuff hold up? If you have coated something take a picture of it and tell us how long it has been on. If you haven't and you are basing your testimonial on a friends rig I would like to know that.

It is not that I don't believe you. And I am not trying to start a flame war. You and others have said Por-15 is great, and look like a commercial for Por-15. If you don't have an example, I can't understand where it is coming from. If you do (which is what I suspect is the case) then I would like to know what you put it on, how the application went, how long it has been on, and anything else you can tell us.
 

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Bruzer said:
Muzikman said:
Herculiner should not flake off, but it will scape off. That being said, Por-15 shouldn't have flaked off either. Is that the only place that it flaked off? If so, I am betting there was grease or oil on that spot of the slider.

I still stand behind Por-15 and say it's one of the houghest coatings for steel.
I washed them twice with marine clean because I purchased 2 super starter packs and had 2 marine clean bottles. The Por-15 flaked off on the other side too, just not as bad. When I removed the sliders to scrape and sand, the front face of the square mounting arm didn't hold all that well. I was able to scrape off some paint from that arm which is directly behind the front tire.

Muzikman have you applied Por-15 on something yourself? You keep asserting Por-15 is great but I haven't seen you list any examples. It is possible that I did something was wrong that the Por-15 flaked off my sliders, I can admit that. But I am listing an actual example of a failed application that I believe I did correctly. If you have a counter example that would be great for us to read. You get snow in PA, how did your stuff hold up? If you have coated something take a picture of it and tell us how long it has been on. If you haven't and you are basing your testimonial on a friends rig I would like to know that.

It is not that I don't believe you. And I am not trying to start a flame war. You and others have said Por-15 is great, and look like a commercial for Por-15. If you don't have an example, I can't understand where it is coming from. If you do (which is what I suspect is the case) then I would like to know what you put it on, how the application went, how long it has been on, and anything else you can tell us.
In most cases of an application not adhearing properly or flaking off in an unreasonable amount of time is due to prep. I am not saying you didn't prep well, but attention to detail on preparation is of utmost importance...Also, your sig says you live in Min....Salt is quite abundant eh? I grew up in SD and experienced many a rusted vehicles working in a Body Shop....Of course from Min.......
 

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My full set of skid plates are done in Por-15 and even after dragging them across rocks, the stuff hasn't even be scratched down to metal. This is the most abuse I have put Por-15 through. No it hasn't seen any snow and salt yet.

I have also used Por-15 on a number of other vehicles. The underside of my father's pickup is done in por-15. The inner fenders of the same truck is also por-15 and it's been on there a couple years now (I think it was done 2 years ago this past spring). The front axle of my Jeep is por-15'ed. So yes, I have used it and I have had good results. I have no pics of my father's pickup and the only photos I have of my skids were when I was coating them. The next time I am under the truck I'll try to get some pics.

I have enough luck with it that this winter when I rebuild the Jeep, the entire suspension and armor is being por-15'ed and the bumpers and sliders will then be Herculined.

If you want to see what Por-15 can really do, search some of the classic car forums. Those guys have been using por-15 for years with no problems.

The stuff is tricky, especially on bare metal. It has to be cleaned, etched and coated. It took me a day and a half just to clean and prep my skid plates. If the metal is rusted, por-15 sticks the best.

I am sorry if it sounds like a commercial, but I have used it and have had great experience with it. I would hate to see your problems scare away others from a great product.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I printed out the instructions from a web site I ordered them on read them cover to cover. I also got instructions in the order when it arrived. I followed the instructions when applying and didn't skip or forget a step. The only thing could it could be if I didn't perform the steps correctly, which again I admit is possible.

My point still stands, if Por-15 is this hard to prep, maybe it isn't worth the trouble.
 

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When coating metal it's always hard to prep. This goes for any finish (powdercoating, spray paint, auto paint, bed liner, por-15, etc). Unlike wood or plaster (which is what most people are use to painting) metal doesn't absorb the coating. That means that if there is anything on the metal, dirt, grease, oil, finger prints, sweat, water, etc the coating will not stick.

You also have to remember that when you get your sliders, that is brand new metal that has been welded, that means there is scaling, oils, grime, dust, dirt, etc. As powerful as Marine clean is, it still takes a lot of elbow grease to get the metal clean before it can be etched with Metal Ready. I used almost an entire gallon of metal ready on my skid plates. Each time I would apply it, it would flake off more scaling. I just kept applying it until nothing more was flaking off. The metal should have had a white/green color to it after it was prepped with metal ready. If there was any black areas, that was stuff that was going to flake off.

Places that do bare steel coating as a business use acid dip tanks to get all that stuff off the metal before it is coated. That is why even a good powdercoat job is not cheap. If it is cheap, you have to wonder what steps they are skipping. Look at Calmini powdercoating.
 

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I always do all the steps and zap it with a flame (Torch of Mapp Gas) just prior to putting it on. I do find it sticks better to rusty metal though.
I'm amazed you had this problem. Maybe you call and ask if they turned out a bad batch? If they did, they would know and cheerfully replace it I'd hope. MC
 

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I have had good and bad experience with por 15. Good with all the proper prep work and a lot of time involved. Bad when I was lazy and in a hurry.

Could be a bad batch like MC stated, could be something you missed, could have been you touched the spots before applying with your hand and it was the oil from your skin...hell I don't know :drunken:
 

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I've used por -15 alot myself. The underside and the inside floorboard area of my 70 charger is done with this stuff. I had to remove the factory undercoating with heat and a putty knife before I coated the floor with it. I didn't get it prepped like you guys, but its been on there 6 years now and no flaking. Then again I haven't off roaded with it either :)
 
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