I used rustoleum hammered black on mine. No primer needed and if you want to see how it looks, check out my post which has pics now. Its what Jim recommended to me to use if I didn't get them powder coated. 4.50 a can I think and I did the full set with 4.2 cans.
I ordered POR15 and after looking at the instructions I let that gallon sit and put the Rustoleum on. Very very satisfied with that, plus it touches up easy POR 15 is best used on parts already rusted, or shall I say most economically used on parts already rusted. It's killer stuff, but not needed for skids, run to Wal Mart and get the rustoleum is my vote! It touches up Fast! MC
I por-15'ed mine. It took me about 2 days to complete. Por-15 sells a great product called "Metal Ready". You clean the bare metal, dry it (I used a heat gun), apply metal ready to it, let it sit for 10-15 minutes (make sure the metal ready does not dry), hose it off with clean garden hose water, let it dry, apply Por-15. It worked great and it's as touch as nails. I have dentd my skids already but none of the por-15 has been scraped off. It's not cheap, but works great.
f all you plan on doing is the skids, do not buy a gallon container. Once it's opened and exposed to air you have to use it. I bought a "6 pack" and it took three of the 6 (4oz) containers to do both sides of all 4 skids with 2 coats. I just brushed it on with a cheap 1.5" brush.
Skids showed up today...a day early. FedEx managed to drop them off at the wrong building in my complex, so I had to carry those things one at a time back to my place...i didn't realize how heavy they would be. At any rate I think I am going to go the Rustolem route. I don't have a garage handy to prep and prime for the POR-15. I am going to have to do what I can from the back porch.
Last year I painted my shrockworks sliders with por-15 and followed the complicated prep and top coated them with the recommended top coat paint (because por-15 will fade if exposed to the sun).
After a regular Minnesota winter I found the por-15 flaking off and where the "snow boggers" would collect. Some may argue that I didn't prep the sliders right, but I did use the scotch brite pad and the cleaner and the metal etching stuff just as it said in the instructions. After cleaning the rust and scraping the paint off in those areas it looks like the por-15 may not have adhered to the metal because those sliders were too smooth, I have a paint stripper attachment for my drill now, no problem roughing up those areas for the new paint
I also attended Moab 2006 in May and scraped the rock sliders up quite a bit. I saw Muzikman say that por-15 is "tough as nails". I don't care how tough por-15 is, the rocks will take that stuff off every time.
So I am left with the same decision. What should I put on the rocksliders? Is the por-15 is worth all the multi-step prep time? Would a rattle can or metal primer work just as good and be easier/cheaper in the long run?
Does anyone know how you touch up por-15? I plan on buying one of the kits that has the cleaner and etcher, but that obviously won't get to the bare metal where the rocks and rust didn't expose the metal. Will that stuff work on top of existing por-15 or do I need to try and strip all the paint before re-doing it?
I got my sliders powdercoated. I've since worn all the coating off the bottom of the sliders. I figured no matter what I painted them with, I'd scrape it off on the trail. That's why I use the rattle can stuff for now on. It just doesn't matter because it's coming off soon anyhow.
Yeah, NOTHING is going to not scratch, but por-15 is tougher than anything else you are going to put on it.
Por-15 only takes a lot of prep work on bare steel. You want to touch it up? Wash the area, use a scrub brush to get the mud, dirt, grease and grim off the area and then repaint it with por-15. The stuff loves rust, so the more sufeace rust you have, the better.