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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Updating this thread. So far so good on the new install with the converters.

New valve covers installed on Thursday into Friday, tubes were dirty, throttle body was black, did what could in the moment.

I replaced the filter back to original with Purolator filter tonight. An oil change with me requiring a screwdriver as a wrench was the most annoying part (oil was not good, did a change in December). Or perhaps it was the brakes that have been pissing me off (should have put off those rear line brake lines, needs so much bleeding).

Now the breather hose and MAF harness won't be dangling.

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Update: Less than 3k Miles and I have P0430 Code

Have bigger issues that I think may have led to this P0430. After I replaced the cats in February, I did an oil change. I have burnt more than 2 qts in less than 3k miles!!!! This was never an issue I noticed, I'm afraid my fears perhaps came true inhaling broken catalyst material.

Factors: I did an emergency oil change the other night on May 4th switching to 10w-40, my oil was burning up and had a silver shine to it. And within a matter of days, I got the P0430 (CEL) coming home from Home Depot on May 7th. I even put seafoam In my Oil for 50 miles prior to the Oil Change the other night, but who knows with that much oil burning if the Cats got fouled prior to the CEL.

Did I foul the Convertors by having burnt oil or by adding seafoam into my oil, or is all just coincidence? For the time being, I have cleared the P0430 Code with my scanner.

PS. The past few weeks of checking my Oil, especially when I noticed I was short 2 quarts, I noticed smoke coming out of the oil cap when filling up. Even after the Oil change this past Wednesday, after only 10 mins of driving the next morning I checked for smoke and sure enough it was...

This is just absolutely devastating for me. Having done the Valve Covers, O2 Sensor Swap, new Cats I really thought I would continue driving and only needing to top off my Oil in the event my cylinders have gotten scorn, which of course wouldn't be good but I don't know if that is true; but when you consume more than 2qts with less than 3k miles since the last oil change and don't have a leak...something is wrong.

For now, this week, I will be clearing the code and monitoring.
 

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Update: Less than 3k Miles and I have P0430 Code

Have bigger issues that I think may have led to this P0430. After I replaced the cats in February, I did an oil change. I have burnt more than 2 qts in less than 3k miles!!!! This was never an issue I noticed, I'm afraid my fears perhaps came true inhaling broken catalyst material.

Factors: I did an emergency oil change the other night on May 4th switching to 10w-40, my oil was burning up and had a silver shine to it. And within a matter of days, I got the P0430 (CEL) coming home from Home Depot on May 7th. I even put seafoam In my Oil for 50 miles prior to the Oil Change the other night, but who knows with that much oil burning if the Cats got fouled prior to the CEL.

Did I foul the Convertors by having burnt oil or by adding seafoam into my oil, or is all just coincidence? For the time being, I have cleared the P0430 Code with my scanner.

PS. The past few weeks of checking my Oil, especially when I noticed I was short 2 quarts, I noticed smoke coming out of the oil cap when filling up. Even after the Oil change this past Wednesday, after only 10 mins of driving the next morning I checked for smoke and sure enough it was...

This is just absolutely devastating for me. Having done the Valve Covers, O2 Sensor Swap, new Cats I really thought I would continue driving and only needing to top off my Oil in the event my cylinders have gotten scorn, which of course wouldn't be good but I don't know if that is true; but when you consume more than 2qts with less than 3k miles since the last oil change and don't have a leak...something is wrong.

For now, this week, I will be clearing the code and monitoring.
doesn't sound good at all my man. Oil consumption typically indicates that your rings are shot, or that you have scoring on your cylinder walls allowing oil to get past the rings. I know that running too rich will burn your cats out (I've done it) but not sure about oil. But I can't imagine it's not hurting them.

Maybe stick a bore scope down a spark plug hole and see if you can see any damage to the cylinder walls. I dunno
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I'm devastated with my recent findings. I'm just about to hit 180k and was hoping to get a couple more years out of her. The truck has been darn reliable and only my neglect at times has caused my own issues.

Again, when I started this thread and stated the potential of a car payment, the idea just sickens me with what's going on.

I have spent more than 3k already since September 2021, probably over 5k since the beginning of 2021 on maintenance. But my God, that car payment and rise to my insurance just makes me want to puke if It comes to this.

I don't have the time, energy to chase this down throwing more money at it.

This sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Cleared the P0430 over the weekend. After 50 miles, the SES Light came on again this morning.

Checked the Oil Cap after 10 mins of driving (less than 5 miles), 30mph speed limit...smoking when cap removed. My engine is ruined and unless I address that, it will continue to foul and Cats or Sensors I put in.
 

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I see you reset the ECM in February. Would guess your radiator is just fine.

Don't know what to suggest. Time for a new engine block?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Yea, I reset everything in early March, in fact, my oil change was done in the first week of March.

My brother suggested a possibly new PCV valve? Though,
I don't know if that was clogged if it would cause 2 qts to burn in under 3k miles and have smoke coming out under light driving conditions?

I have a PCV valve arriving tomorrow.

I don't know what else I can do...
 

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Yea, I reset everything in early March, in fact, my oil change was done in the first week of March.

My brother suggested a possibly new PCV valve? Though,
I don't know if that was clogged if it would cause 2 qts to burn in under 3k miles and have smoke coming out under light driving conditions?

I have a PCV valve arriving tomorrow.

I don't know what else I can do...
I mean, worth a shot, but don't expect a miracle. Resetting ECM's and clearing error codes does nothing to fix the problem, as I'm sure you know. A clogged PCV valve would cause some issues, but not what you're experiencing, unfortunately. Until you tear that motor apart and inspect the cylinder walls and rings you're just guessing. If I were you, I'd spend the money on a bore scope before I start guessing and throwing parts at it. A bore scope may or may not tell you what you need to know, but it's as good of a start as I can think of.

I wish the best for you and hope I'm wrong...
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Best case scenario a joint or something is leaking due to the install of the cats/exhaust, but me thinks my engine eating oil is fouling the Cats... but damn that happened fast.

I have very little expectations of the PCV Valve fixing anything, but I'll give it a whirl. The problem is, even if I fix the PVC valve and it was causing "some" issues, I'm now back where I started three months ago with the P0430 code and need to address it. But if I truly have Engine Issues and don't fix the root problem and address the P0430 issue, I'll probably experience more issues in the future with fouling them up again.

Man, I was feeling damn good about my truck lately ever since I made the repairs. Now I fee like I am going to be going in circles chasing things down, and I will admit, I don't have the best patience with that (Time, Money etc.)

This is my Daily Driver, Highway queen if you will but I put about 250 miles a week on it.

Last thing I want to do is be guessing and spending even more money...
 

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Yea, I reset everything in early March, in fact, my oil change was done in the first week of March.

My brother suggested a possibly new PCV valve? Though,
I don't know if that was clogged if it would cause 2 qts to burn in under 3k miles and have smoke coming out under light driving conditions?

I have a PCV valve arriving tomorrow.

I don't know what else I can do...
Either replace the PCV valve hose or wash it out with brake cleaner.

The PCV valves can be washed out with WD-40 or brake cleaner and then blown dry with pressurized air. But if the OE has been there forever, it might be time to replace.
 
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Got one coming in today, sucks I can't get into my shop with freaking 8 cubic yards of mulch on my driveway. But I'll attempt to install tonight, would have been Ideal to do when I did the Valve Cover Replacement!

The PCV hoses (3 piece kit)were replaced when we did the Valve Covers however.

Thanks for the information.
 

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Got one coming in today, sucks I can't get into my shop with freaking 8 cubic yards of mulch on my driveway. But I'll attempt to install tonight, would have been Ideal to do when I did the Valve Cover Replacement!

The PCV hoses (3 piece kit)were replaced when we did the Valve Covers however.

Thanks for the information.
If you bought new Nissan valve covers, they should have come with a new PCV valve. At least mine did.
 

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honestly, with new/used car prices they way they are right now, i would put a new (used) engine in if i were in your shoes. swallow the $3k now and, provided the rest of the truck is in good condition, run it for another 5-10 years. the new engine will pay for itself in the first months (based on a new car payment of $500/month).
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
!$+% You are right!!! I just checked Z1Offroad where I got them from, and it comes with the PCV Valve! Well, now I know it's not the PCV Valve :cautious: Was hoping for a hail marry. Now I know for sure my engine is F'd.

The thought of doing an Engine swap and everything needed for that is going to drive me bonkers. Wow, this one stings big time.
 

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!$+% You are right!!! I just checked Z1Offroad where I got them from, and it comes with the PCV Valve! Well, now I know it's not the PCV Valve :cautious: Was hoping for a hail marry. Now I know for sure my engine is F'd.

The thought of doing an Engine swap and everything needed for that is going to drive me bonkers. Wow, this one stings big time.
There are still a couple of things to verify before you assume you need a new engine. A compression test can tell you if you have major problems. You can also start with removing on of your cats and inspecting it. If it looks clean and undamaged then chances are your cats are not the problem. These might not change anything but they're free and will give you more information.

Engine swaps are a ton of work, but nothing all that complicated - just a ton of parts, bolts and fasteners to keep up with with. Swapping for a VK is a different animal - much more parts to order and much more expensive. I've seen good running motors taken out by junkyards selling for $1500 pretty frequently, sometimes they'll even come with installation and a warranty for under $2k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I just went under to inspect, didn't see leaks or cracks, or joints that appeared bad. Put a piece of paper behind the exhaust, first my hands actually and they got covered with a moist oily vapor...

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
There are still a couple of things to verify before you assume you need a new engine. A compression test can tell you if you have major problems. You can also start with removing on of your cats and inspecting it. If it looks clean and undamaged then chances are your cats are not the problem. These might not change anything but they're free and will give you more information.

Engine swaps are a ton of work, but nothing all that complicated - just a ton of parts, bolts and fasteners to keep up with with. Swapping for a VK is a different animal - much more parts to order and much more expensive. I've seen good running motors taken out by junkyards selling for $1500 pretty frequently, sometimes they'll even come with installation and a warranty for under $2k.
Based on my last post which the exhaust just covered my hands in oily spatter, the Cats have got to be covered in oil. I wouldn't be surprised if I throw a P0420 code soon, the Passenger Cat can't be that far off from being fouled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
So I took some readings, and it looks like my O2 Bank 2 S1 reading is somewhat higher than the rest, reading "0.610" VDC. These values seems like a normal reading based on some forum research...

This was taken after driving 25 miles and not turning the engine on. Perhaps it simply means the sensors are fine.

Also worth noting, grounding straps were not re-applied as they were gone when I did the install of the Cats. Might try to add grounding wire.

But the reality is, I'm spewing and burning lots of Oil.

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Don't waste your time on the ground straps for the exhaust. I'd say that most Xterra's are missing one or more of them and reinstalling them doesn't do anything (according to multiple people on here that have tried it).

The O2 sensor readings can be misleading. True, it might mean the sensor is going out, or it's simply cover is oil and can't function correctly. Either way, a bad O2 sensor will not cause you to regularly burn multiple quarts of oil, unfortunately.

I know you're looking for a miracle but the fact is that you won't truly know what's going on until you get that engine apart and inspect the source of the oil burning (i.e. cylinder walls). It also might be worth it to you to take to a shop and get an actual diagnosis, rather than trusting what people online suggest without even seeing your Xterra in person. It could be very worth the $150 (or whatever they charge) to diagnose it rather than jumping into an engine swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Don't waste your time on the ground straps for the exhaust. I'd say that most Xterra's are missing one or more of them and reinstalling them doesn't do anything (according to multiple people on here that have tried it).

The O2 sensor readings can be misleading. True, it might mean the sensor is going out, or it's simply cover is oil and can't function correctly. Either way, a bad O2 sensor will not cause you to regularly burn multiple quarts of oil, unfortunately.

I know you're looking for a miracle but the fact is that you won't truly know what's going on until you get that engine apart and inspect the source of the oil burning (i.e. cylinder walls). It also might be worth it to you to take to a shop and get an actual diagnosis, rather than trusting what people online suggest without even seeing your Xterra in person. It could be very worth the $150 (or whatever they charge) to diagnose it rather than jumping into an engine swap.
I 100% hear you, thanks for responding. I'm not going to bother with grounding or replacing the sensor. The bottom line is, and whatever may be causing it, is that Oil is being burned up and exiting the exhaust. Until that is addressed (as you mention), there is zero point in me trying to fix the Catalytic P0430 issue.

Why is that happening, is the real question and that needs to be known first.
 
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