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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The one thing that confuses me, is that the scanner reading gave me P0430 on Bank 2. Isn't Bank 2 Driver side?

Perhaps the Driver side cat, while it looks intact from the rear could be damaged in front portion. But it was clear as day, the front passenger Cat was busted. Feel like I should have received a code for Bank 1, if that truly is the Passenger side
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
" MTNBound - so are you saying there is nothing after the primary cats, one of which is gutted? no pipe or anything?

i wouldnt drive like that at all really, except to move it around in my drive way."


Yea, nothing after the primary cats. No pipes, no rear Cats, no exhaust...zilch.

God damnit, not good. Not good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Almost 400.00 to rent the smallest/cheapest vehicle for the week.

Guess it beats getting pulled over or screwing more things up with the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Prep night Part 1.

The Magnaflow exhaust is getting prepped. Since we cut the back passenger side behind the Flange on the back convertor, the bolts had to be removed. I angle grinded cut the corroded nut/stud side
and punched them out 1-2-3 ...

I worked both flanges by removing the previous seals and whatever was left over of the gaskets, with abrasive wheels. Rough sanded the surfaces to get everything smooth to an acceptable point. Tomorrow they will get some parallels across the surface and test fit begins with new converters arriving🙃

I also prepped the back converters for the scrappy yard. The passenger rear 100% had some debris from the front, it however was not clogged. The Driver side did NOT have debris in the rear. Which again confirms my confusion as to why I only threw a P0430 (Bank 2)- Driver side, and nothing on P0420 (Bank 1) - Passenger converters.

Tomorrow I'll try to get the truck jacked and get the front tires off along with the wells. I'll start removing the front converters hopefully without too much pain.

Denso Sensors came in and they look nice.


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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Part 2.

Convertors arrived, tube ends were rough/sharp, deburred/smoothed with wire wheel and stoned the flanges and cleaned all eight (8) ends. Laid out the hardware and got going.

Started with Bank 1 (Passenger) and removed heat shields. Only got one screw out, the other two (2) screws were a bit tighter, but the heatshield corroded around them and was removed. I plan to leave it off as it was pain getting out, I needed space and needed to inspect the area - lots of oil dripping from the top which may have led to some failure on this end.

I test fit the new "Canadian" Made Bank 1 Cat from Ebay. You know... the initial prep of all mating surfaces has me feeling good about the initial test fit. I used 2000*F Anti-seize in specific areas to enhance the fit, protection and sealing opportunities. Had to re-use oem stud nut as hardware provided is a coarser pitch, cleaned it up and used it.

I plan to leave all heatshields off as they have corroded and vibrated to destruction. Hopefully this is okay as I move on tomorrow with the entire assembly. Additionally, I have valve covers and gaskets coming to fix the oil leaking. The Oil leakage is less prominent on the Driver side and NOT on the sensor etc.

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Damn man, your valve covers are leaking quite a bit
Yea, it has bothered me for some time but I would clean and monitor, but it has gotten worse. As mentioned, I have the Valve Covers/Gaskets and additional sealant (for the corner(s)) on order from Z1 OFFRoad.

The Passenger side is bad, the Driver side not as bad but Oil has definitely been all over the cats and sensor on Bank 1 and has smoked over the years.

I am looking to finish the convertor install tonight, I'm leaving the Heatshields OFF the Exhaust Manifold as it will be impossible to replace without a huge amount of work, plus I basically destroyed them getting out.
 

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I am looking to finish the convertor install tonight, I'm leaving the Heatshields OFF the Exhaust Manifold as it will be impossible to replace without a huge amount of work, plus I basically destroyed them getting out.
I think most people damage them pretty well. On the driver side, 1 bolt snapped off in the manifold. Passenger side one snapped, one came out and one somehow just spins and wont come out. I had to hack off part of the heat shield just to get the cat in and out. Those things are hard and messy to cut when you can't remove them. I'm convinced there's no way to actually remove them from the engine bay with the motor installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
I think most people damage them pretty well. On the driver side, 1 bolt snapped off in the manifold. Passenger side one snapped, one came out and one somehow just spins and wont come out. I had to hack off part of the heat shield just to get the cat in and out. Those things are hard and messy to cut when you can't remove them. I'm convinced there's no way to actually remove them from the engine bay with the motor installed.

I almost did get it out without total destruction. As you mentioned, one bolt came out no problem and the other two did not, but in my case the heatshield was corroded around the head so it came off easier. I had to first remove the Bank 1 Convertor, which to my surprise wasn't that bad. I proceeded to slide down the heatshield in the same direction, but I did have to give it a few blows to "squeeze" through and out it came.

Tonight I am going to get the Bank 2 (Driver) side done and get rears in followed by my exhaust. All the Joints will be left "finger tight" so that I can maneuver/seat the seals into place followed by a final tightening of all flange hardware.

My Denso sensors came with anti-seize applied to the threads, but they also included a copper-like lubricant/sealant. It seems redundant being that the threads of the sensor(s) already have pre-applied anti-seize. Guess I'll just save the little tubes for something else, don't think it needs to be applied again...

Thanks.
 

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My Denso sensors came with anti-seize applied to the threads, but they also included a copper-like lubricant/sealant. It seems redundant being that the threads of the sensor(s) already have pre-applied anti-seize. Guess I'll just save the little tubes for something else, don't think it needs to be applied again...
I wouldn't think so. I've never received anti-seize (pre applied OR in a tube) with O2 sensors. I've always just added a thin coat myself and called it good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I wouldn't think so. I've never received anti-seize (pre applied OR in a tube) with O2 sensors. I've always just added a thin coat myself and called it good.
I certainly don't mind the extra care in how they have provided it. Each thread is pre-applied (though a different color) and I'll just save the little tube from the rest of the order into my inventory.

I bought a split "sensor" socket since I didn't have a crows-foot, but I think I need to machine the slot a little bigger, it's a bit tight around the wiring harness; I'll update tonight. With that in mind, I'll install them once I get everything mounted on the truck. I was contemplating pre-installing the Sensors but think I can do it easily once the convertors are on the truck.

Thanks.
 

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My Denso sensors came with anti-seize applied to the threads, but they also included a copper-like lubricant/sealant. It seems redundant being that the threads of the sensor(s) already have pre-applied anti-seize. Guess I'll just save the little tubes for something else, don't think it needs to be applied again...

Thanks.
Copper seal is an anti seize, no need to use both. Every O2 sensor I've ever bought came one or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Copper seal is an anti seize, no need to use both. Every O2 sensor I've ever bought came one or the other.
That is what I figured, will be adding it to my spares bin. Good to know and good to have extra, bought a few things to make my life easier tonight from Home Depot. Looking forward to doing the install later today!

Finally a little warmth in the East Coast, won't have to rock the Heater at full blast today in the shop.

Cheers.
 

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That is what I figured, will be adding it to my spares bin. Good to know and good to have extra, bought a few things to make my life easier tonight from Home Depot. Looking forward to doing the install later today!

Finally a little warmth in the East Coast, won't have to rock the Heater at full blast today in the shop.

Cheers.
FYI, I've heard that the copper seal stuff can damage rubber (and maybe plastic too?), so be careful you don't get it on any bushing. Not sure if that's true, but I've heard it for years from people much smarterer than me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
FYI, I've heard that the copper seal stuff can damage rubber (and maybe plastic too?), so be careful you don't get it on any bushing. Not sure if that's true, but I've heard it for years from people much smarterer than me.
All good, I only put it on metal to metal hardware. You'll notice from my pictures last night, the areas around the new bolts on the Exhaust Manifold have a liberal amount, but I wiped it away as it approaches the inner diameter of the tubes. I thought my bench picture showcased what I use but it was probably under the truck, I have had the stuff for years and use it whenever I work on the Xterra.
 

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Neither here nor there perhaps ....

I recall reading that the OE A/F ratio and O2 sensors on the 2005 and 2006 Xterras were made by Bosch.

The NTK/NGK and Denso sensors are supposed to be OE and seem to work.


Anti-seize is only required for re-installing a used sensor.
 

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I used a denso one for my prinary bank 1 replacement. it also came with antisieze preappied to the threads and alitte tube of copper stuff. i just installed it as it came. didnt see the need for extra gunk on there.

i had to cut away the bottom 1/3 of the bank 1( pass side) heatshield.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Westslope - the original sensors that came off my 2006 X are identical to the Denso.
Only the front OE A/F sensors had pre-applied anti-seize, the rears did not.

Mtnbound - Now I have extra little tubes for the parts bin! Both my Exhaust Manifold Heatshields have been removed, along with some others under the frame. Just about all of them only had one (1) screw holding them on.

I found the Bank 2 (Driver) side a bit more annoying to tackle with the brake lines in the way. For the rear convertors, I pre-installed the Denso Sensors and for the fronts, I put them on AFTER the converters were installed.

Everything is just about finger tight and except the joint between both converters, those I tightened once I set and centered the metal crush 'O' seals. The gap between the Exhaust Manifold Flange and the up-stream convertors is just tight enough so that I can get some movement, I will do a final tightening when all connections to the rear are bolted so I don't over flex the exhaust manifold(s).

Hardest part last night was getting my damn Exhaust back on and getting it aligned. I have one (1) Exhaust bracket left hanging it, the rear mount/Bushing is about to fall apart, the front one snapped off and the middle one is holding the Exhaust. It looks like the exhaust flange and rear convertor flange is way off, but that is because the exhaust is just hanging in that picture, I'm actually quite happy with how everything has aligned so far and I have been rather tedious with the installation to make sure everything is as good or close to as good as I can make it.

Once the front converters are tight, that should help align the Exhaust flanges to the rear converters, everything will be bolted tonight for good! I'll be making hangars for my Exhaust as well or get some new mounts ordered.

Hoping that the Truck runs normally after this installation and all four (4) sensors replaced, if it does not, I I will be concerned. Bank 2 (Driver) side OEM Convertor was still -intact but clogged up a bit, now I have three (3) scrap worthy convertors!

Oh and my valve covers, gaskets and some hoses came in too from Z1Offroad so I'm ready to get that started, soon.



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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Couldn't be happier. Started it up and nice smooth sound. Ended up putting on the front brakes I had since November while the front was open. Test drive was great! Lots of exhaust coming out when I first started it, checked all joints and no initial leaks. Did a little brake break-in and the truck had plenty of acceleration and power.

During this process I did see things that need attention, at this particular moment however, I am relieved.

My biggest scare was inhaling something to the engine. But the initial start up was good, no check engine. I'll monitor closely and let it adjust. Scan for codes tomorrow after more driving. Have one exhaust hanger left, so I will be cleaning some things up with new hardware. Don't want to stress the exhaust headers, the system just needs some support and it will be better grounding.

I'll report back.

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Little update from this morning on my 25 mile commute, so far so good! The truck felt good, had good response and it just seemed normal. In a given week, I drive roughly 250 miles so I'll simply be monitoring it over the next few days. I did pick up a cheap OBDII Scanner last week and had it scanning yesterday, no codes were present, I will drive with this from now on to be on the safe side. I did reset my truck last week (by disconnecting the battery) so I'll need to drive on it and let it recalibrate, hoping for zero codes.

This was my first time doing this install and I'm happy with how it all went, having the rental last week was annoying due to the cost, but it did allow me to take my time with the install and do things how I wanted/needed to. I appreciate everyone's comments and feedback during the process, appreciate the community on this forum.

I initially wanted to run Seafoam through the system when only the front convertors were on (the OEMs) but the schedule didn't allow for it. Back in April of 2021, I did some in the gas and oil but not sure if that contributed to some of the fouling of the primary convertors so I will NOT be doing that for the newly installed hardware now that everything is bolted together and running.

Next up will be the Valve Cover(s) and Gasket(s) and cleaning of the intake system based on my first post.

PS. I was hit with SMOD in August of 2013 and was covered under warranty, new Transmission and Radiator. However, being active on the site the last week has me looking at possibly replacing the Radiator as it will be approaching 10 years, I never bypassed after they did install the new hardware. It sometimes is really hard to imagine how time passes by so quickly...

Cheers.
 
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