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I got it back from Nissan today. The service advisor assured me the heater hoses were going to be set up in bypass again because I told her I was pretty sure it was bypassed because of a failed heater core, but then I got it back like this...

Before:
View attachment 124999 View attachment 124998
After:
View attachment 124996 View attachment 124997

The ECT reads at 109C, so 3C higher than before at operating temperature so I'm not sure what to take from this. Heater core isn't leaking so that's good I guess, and I have heat now so that's cool too. The service advisor says it's not overheating anymore, but I don't think 109C (228F) is normal... but what do I know.

Sounds like it is running hot still. is it leaking from the heater core since they clearly didnt listen to you and hooked it up anyways? any coolant smell?

has anyone checked the radiator itself? could that need replacing perhaps its clogged or something and impeding flow. also what about the fan? is it working properly..
 

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Isn't it pretty labor intensive, therefore either a real pita to DIY, or $$ for shop labor.
It is, about 12 hours when I did mine, but since he's been troubleshooting for about 10 days now...12 hours vs 10 Days...

WHile it is labor intensive, it is not difficult, I am not a mechanic and used Youtube to do it...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sounds like it is running hot still. is it leaking from the heater core since they clearly didnt listen to you and hooked it up anyways? any coolant smell?

has anyone checked the radiator itself? could that need replacing perhaps its clogged or something and impeding flow. also what about the fan? is it working properly..
The fan works, it's not leaking, and I don't smell any coolant. I was also thinking the radiator may be clogged, it's an aftermarket but it was filled with water and not coolant when I bought it so I'm thinking of replacing it. I will update if I notice any changes when I do it.

It is, about 12 hours when I did mine, but since he's been troubleshooting for about 10 days now...12 hours vs 10 Days...

WHile it is labor intensive, it is not difficult, I am not a mechanic and used Youtube to do it...
That would've been an option but I decided to make sure it worked before I just threw unnecessary time and parts at something, and it turned out my heater core works. I assumed it wasn't due to it being bypassed previous to me owning the vehicle - I'm not sure why the previous owner did the bypass but he also screwed up my timing chain when he replaced it so I'm not entirely surprised his incompetence lead him to do it for whatever reason.
 

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Do you have your pressure caps on the right locations - the one with the spring goes on the degas bottle - and the one without spring goes on the radiator itself. If that doesn't help get new rad caps. If you still have pressure on the system a day later and its still pressurized there is something wrong with your caps.
Hello I was just working on the X and the Caps are int he right place.Yesterday I got a new radiator cap for the reserve tank and I installed it. The car still overheats, but now it releases the pressure once it cools down. I also did an oil change today to a High millage full synthetic 0W 20 from Valvoline because I read that it could be oil not cooling down the engine. I also change the oil pressure sensor to make sure that I had pressure cause it was stuck in high and with the new one it shows normal operation. The car idles at 215*F and goes to 245* as soon as I start to drive it. I am waiting on the bypass fitting to make it as close to the OEM position as I can while preserving the reserve tank. I lower the level of the coolant a little like a cup or two and that made no change.
My electric fan only comes on at 208*F and not before. I though that the fan had two speeds. One that opened with the thermostat temp (around 197*F) and the high speed that turn on at 208*F. The engine is super strong and has no misfires or anything. Cats are Empty (for Offroad research) there is exhaust flow out of the tail pipe. No cross contamination in the oil or the coolant.
New parts:
New thermostat ( from amazon Brand Beck Arnley) The only part along with the by pass that I am not 100% sure about it working.
New Temp Sensor (From Amazon No name brand) Work fine tested the old one and I get the same temp on both
New Fan Clutch (From Ebay It works fine the Car sound like an F16 ) It provides a lot more air circulation
New Radiator (From Amazon No name Brand) Pressure tested before installing it and pass and flows perfectly

Any Ideas? 👀

Thank you in advanced!
Carlos
 

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I replaced all the plastic hose connectors (T’s, etc) in that area with brass home depot stuff so I can’t see how by passing the heater is causing the engine to run hotter. Must something else.
Are you sure that's a good idea? The whole 'multi-metal' corrossion issue with how different coolants interact with with different metals is pretty complex. Is there brass elsewhere in the line already?
 

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I'm not sure why the previous owner did the bypass but he also screwed up my timing chain when he replaced it so I'm not entirely surprised his incompetence lead him to do it for whatever reason.
Could have bypassed because of a snapped plastic fitting going into the heater core. I almost did that. That plastic piece is shit and falls apart.
 

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Hello I was just working on the X and the Caps are int he right place.Yesterday I got a new radiator cap for the reserve tank and I installed it. The car still overheats, but now it releases the pressure once it cools down. I also did an oil change today to a High millage full synthetic 0W 20 from Valvoline because I read that it could be oil not cooling down the engine. I also change the oil pressure sensor to make sure that I had pressure cause it was stuck in high and with the new one it shows normal operation. The car idles at 215*F and goes to 245* as soon as I start to drive it. I am waiting on the bypass fitting to make it as close to the OEM position as I can while preserving the reserve tank. I lower the level of the coolant a little like a cup or two and that made no change.
My electric fan only comes on at 208*F and not before. I though that the fan had two speeds. One that opened with the thermostat temp (around 197*F) and the high speed that turn on at 208*F. The engine is super strong and has no misfires or anything. Cats are Empty (for Offroad research) there is exhaust flow out of the tail pipe. No cross contamination in the oil or the coolant.
New parts:
New thermostat ( from amazon Brand Beck Arnley) The only part along with the by pass that I am not 100% sure about it working.
New Temp Sensor (From Amazon No name brand) Work fine tested the old one and I get the same temp on both
New Fan Clutch (From Ebay It works fine the Car sound like an F16 ) It provides a lot more air circulation
New Radiator (From Amazon No name Brand) Pressure tested before installing it and pass and flows perfectly

Any Ideas? 👀

Thank you in advanced!
Carlos
It's often said that the non-OEM thermostats are terrible. That'd be the next thing to swap I think.
 

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hello everyone! Little update!
after fixing the bypass for the heater core the carb idles at a lower temp! It is now at 215 and after Erving it up goes down to 208 and even 205. But while driving it the temp can get up to the 240 and the car overheats.
could anyone verify that the fan only has one speed that kicks in at 208? My electric fan will not do anything until that temp and I am almost sure that the fan is a two stage fan. I have a feeling that the fan is not working the way is supposed to. I am also looking at getting a new pen thermostat.
thank you again
Carlos
 

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If you are driving along at more than 40 mph and it still overheats, it is not the fan as the air flow thru the radiator is more than the fan would blow. Sounds like the only thing you haven’t replaced is the water pump. The fact that when you rev the engine a little the temp goes down shows the effect of the water pump flowing more but at higher speeds it over heats because the water pump isn’t pumping like it suppose (I’m guessing).
 

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Are you sure that's a good idea? The whole 'multi-metal' corrossion issue with how different coolants interact with with different metals is pretty complex. Is there brass elsewhere in the line already?
Good point, but I doubt any coolant reaction with brass will be a concern. I’ll check the insides of the brass connectors in a few years. It’s better than getting stuck on the road this afternoon because of the plastic stuff.
 

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Hello, Is there an actual way to check if the water pump is working before going into the engine and changing it?

If you are driving along at more than 40 mph and it still overheats, it is not the fan as the air flow thru the radiator is more than the fan would blow. Sounds like the only thing you haven’t replaced is the water pump. The fact that when you rev the engine a little the temp goes down shows the effect of the water pump flowing more but at higher speeds it over heats because the water pump isn’t pumping like it suppose (I’m guessing).
 

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Have you installed a good thermostat? I assumed you did but checking back it is not clear in the posts that it was done. Would do that before chasing the water pump as a sticking thermostat could give similar symptoms. As mentioned, after market thermostats arent reliable so a real Nissan thermostat should be used.

With a good thermostat, after it opens, the upper rubber hose to the radiator will be hot (If the water pump is moving the coolant). It seems in your case, if still over heating, that the water pump is the only item left.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Turned out to be my thermostat. The shop I went to kept putting in an aftermarket because of their warranty - the coolant wouldn't circulate because it stayed shut. After they swapped it with a Nissan thermostat everything works again. Idle temp is now at around 199F.

-The water pump was replaced as well (Had rust spotting all over it) and was covered in black sludge, the block was flushed and more black sludge came from it which I'm assuming was either stop leak or rust/scale build up (It had straight water in it when I bought). I also replaced the radiator because of those reasons, but the old one functioned fine otherwise. The heater core bypass in my circumstance didn't seem to be related to this issue at all.
 

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Glad you got it solved. Honestly, I cannot say I'm surprised that was the issue. I've been down that road myself before and that was my initial thought 17 days ago.
 

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Turned out to be my thermostat. The shop I went to kept putting in an aftermarket because of their warranty - the coolant wouldn't circulate because it stayed shut. After they swapped it with a Nissan thermostat everything works again. Idle temp is now at around 199F.

-The water pump was replaced as well (Had rust spotting all over it) and was covered in black sludge, the block was flushed and more black sludge came from it which I'm assuming was either stop leak or rust/scale build up (It had straight water in it when I bought). I also replaced the radiator because of those reasons, but the old one functioned fine otherwise. The heater core bypass in my circumstance didn't seem to be related to this issue at all.
Guys I just wanted to give an update to my problem too. This is the first tread about overheating that has an answer and was marked as solved. So I wanted to add my .02. In my case it was also the thermostat. I cannot believe that the quality control in the aftermarket parts is so poor. One of the dead giveaway that the thermostat failed in the closed position is that the Top hose of the radiator will be very hot after the car get to temperature but the lower Radiator hose stays cold to the touch when you touch close to the Thermostat housing. In my case was extreme so i know my aftermarket Thermostat was not even opening at all. I will not try to save $10 next time! the aftermarket was $19 and the original was $29. The quality of the OEM compared to the aftermarket was also night and day, and I thought the aftermarket was super good quality! So there I pretty much have a brand new cooling system in my car!
Thank you all for your help and I hope this helps the next person with this problem!

Carlos
 
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