I have a 2011 Xterra S ran fine then I parked for a couple weeks but it wouldn't start or even turn over. It was cold so I assumed the battery was dead. I charged battery and even tried Jumpstarting with no luck. This is what I have replaced. Battery, Negative battery cable, fusible positive connection, IPDM, all relays pertaining to starting, ignition, etc. Here is what happens or what I see when trying to start. When I turn ignition to on dash lights up like a Christmas tree. The service engine light and security light are lit and solid. Many other warning lights are lit as well. The cooling fan starts running and the headlights light up. When turning the key to start no lights flicker or dim, the starter relay in the ipdm clicks once. I cannot turn on or off the headlights with the switch. The wipers won't turn on. The hazards and blinkers will physically flash but do not light up on the dash. Also the radio will not light up or turn on. I've jumped across the starter and it will spin over so there is power to the starter and it is not froze up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I have read and watched videos for weeks along with trying different parts and such.
Out of ideas - Xterra won't Turnover
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Only time I have heard of the fan starting to run as soon as the key is on - the ECU was bad. Not trying to scare you, but thats what I have seen here and another Nissan board..
Pull codes? If your meter won't connect then it could be a bad ECU (or the ECU isn't getting power). If you can connect and it gives you a U1000 or similar, it might not be connecting to the BCM. Could be wiring or bad BCM.
I would also try the active auto test. Doesn't rule out the IPDM, but it might shed some light on things - especially if everything there works.
Pull codes? If your meter won't connect then it could be a bad ECU (or the ECU isn't getting power). If you can connect and it gives you a U1000 or similar, it might not be connecting to the BCM. Could be wiring or bad BCM.
I would also try the active auto test. Doesn't rule out the IPDM, but it might shed some light on things - especially if everything there works.
Check for power on each of the battery fuses on the positive post. Maybe one of the replacements popped.
Disconnect and reconnect every connection on the ipdm, the ecu, and the bcm. The bcm is located above the drivers right foot. Disconnect one of the battery terminals before you start pulling connectors.
Also there are 2 grounds on the fender, next to the positive battery post. Those ground the ipdm and the ecm. It might be worth pulling the battery and getting at those, loosen and retighten, or remove and clean them up if needed. Also be sure the battery-to-chassis ground is tight.
Disconnect and reconnect every connection on the ipdm, the ecu, and the bcm. The bcm is located above the drivers right foot. Disconnect one of the battery terminals before you start pulling connectors.
Also there are 2 grounds on the fender, next to the positive battery post. Those ground the ipdm and the ecm. It might be worth pulling the battery and getting at those, loosen and retighten, or remove and clean them up if needed. Also be sure the battery-to-chassis ground is tight.
I check all the fuses, replaced all the relays that were ignition, ecu, or starter related. Also put in a Ipdm box.
I replaced the ends on the 2 grounds going to the fender well. I didn't know where they went. Thanks for pointing out they go to ipdm and ecu. I haven't messed with the bcm but I will look at it. I checked all fuses again tonight.
I couldn't get the active auto test to work. I also agree that every thread I have read with the fan running does seem to lead to ecu. Does anyone have recommendations on where to buy a new ecu?
Man, that sucks. Sorry to hear this is happening.
You may be able to get one from a junk yard. Get the ignition and keys if you can. So you wont have to program the key to the ecu. But then you will have a different key for the doors and ignition.
Or take the X, with the junk yard ecu, to the dealer and have them program the immobilizer to your X and the junk yard ecu.
I should aslo say, I believe the immobilizer is in the ecu, I would need to check the FSM or someone else can confirm.
You may be able to get one from a junk yard. Get the ignition and keys if you can. So you wont have to program the key to the ecu. But then you will have a different key for the doors and ignition.
Or take the X, with the junk yard ecu, to the dealer and have them program the immobilizer to your X and the junk yard ecu.
I should aslo say, I believe the immobilizer is in the ecu, I would need to check the FSM or someone else can confirm.
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If the active auto test doesn't work - that points more towards the IPDM?
If you think its the ECU - The FSM has the pin out. I would make sure it has power. If it does, then I would likely be tempted to send it to someone for repair. Others here have used Flagship 1 for TCM. Not sure anyone has for ECU's but I suppose you could start there.
Hey just wanted to weigh in, i had the exact same issue a few years ago and a new ECU was indeed the fix. Nissan diagnosed it, but sure enough a new ECU fired it right up.
Looking back, since i didn't need to drive the vehicle daily i would have sent the ECU out to be repaired vs buying a $1200 new one. I haven't used Flagship but directed an international X owner there and never heard back on the end result. I also assume that the repair process avoids the headache of flashing ECU's at the dealer and security system/vehicle key crap.
Solid elimination suggestions in this thread by the way. please report back with resolution.
Looking back, since i didn't need to drive the vehicle daily i would have sent the ECU out to be repaired vs buying a $1200 new one. I haven't used Flagship but directed an international X owner there and never heard back on the end result. I also assume that the repair process avoids the headache of flashing ECU's at the dealer and security system/vehicle key crap.
Solid elimination suggestions in this thread by the way. please report back with resolution.
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If you have a second key, attempt to start your truck with it.
Be sure to check fuse #1 in the fuse junction block, next to the glove box. That provides power to parts of the ecm and ipdm.
Also check fuse #53 in the ipdm.
Less likely but while you are at it, there are grounds just forward of the air intake where it passes through the left fender. Clean those up as needed.
On the initial jump start when this problem arose, any chance you reversed the jumper cables, even for a second?
Also check fuse #53 in the ipdm.
Less likely but while you are at it, there are grounds just forward of the air intake where it passes through the left fender. Clean those up as needed.
On the initial jump start when this problem arose, any chance you reversed the jumper cables, even for a second?
No I'm sure I didn't reverse the cables. I've learned from that mistake decades ago lol. I will look at those 2 fuses again but have replaced both just for sanity. Thanks for input.
Thanks for the input. I believe the ecu is the culprit but wanted input before spending anymore time and MONEY on this.
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