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Cool! How's the light out put with the LED fogs?

I recently upgraded all of my lights to LEDs, and in the process purchased some LED Foglights from VLEDs. After searching on this forum, I learned that there are only very minor differences between our H11 socket and the H9 bulbs.

When I ordered my stuff (during VLEDs recent 20% off everything sale), they were out of H11 foglights in 5k white, so I ordered the same bulb in the H9 configuration.

Some recommend modifying the mounting tabs, I found I didn't even have to do that. Only modification I had to make was to shave one of the tabs out of the female bulb socket. Very simple 30 second modification.

Only problem was that when I plugged them in, they didn't work. I tried reversing polarity but still had the same problem. I did some research and learned that the issue could relate to the nominal impedance of the circuit with the LED bulbs versus the standard halogen.

So, I bought a pair of 6 Ohm 50 W resistors, and two pairs of M/F H11/H9 sockets and made two of these:



Lights work perfectly now! Now, I know some people would have just used vampire taps and called it a day, but I wanted something that was easily reversible and didn't modify any of the stock wiring, so I made these adapters, which really only took 30-45 minutes.

So, be advised, if you want to install LED foglights, you can go either H9 or H11, but you may have to add 6 Ohms resistors to each bulb. Hope this is helpful
 

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Light output is great! My foglight lenses are a little sandblasted though. I have replacements on the way.




This weekend I also installed an LED light bar in the engine bay, wired to a momentary switch so when the hood opens, the light comes on.

Momentary switch:



Lit:

 

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Ok just found out I'm having a WEIRD problem.

First off - parking lights don't come on - front or rear.

Turn signals - both front bulbs start flashing, like they would if the hazards on.

Reverse lights come on when I throw put it in reverse.

Any ideas?

EDIT: I just realized the LED's I have in there aren't SMC or whatever. Ordered a new set so we'll see if that fixes things...so strange.
 

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One of my rear brake lights gave up the ghost and I think it's LED time.

I've LED'ed my interior lights but put off doing external lights until the technology improved. The Sylvania Light guide says my rear lights are "3157" but isn't clear if they are CK-base or not. Two posts in this thread give different answers regarding the rear bulbs and if they are -CK or not (and neither corresponds to my 2010 model year).

alkeli with 2007 Xterra Off-Road : 6-Speed Manual calls them as 3157CK

paulc_dc with a 2006 Xterra SE calls them as 3157 standards.

Edit: If this image is correct (http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/led-car-bulb-CK-wiring.jpg) then they look the same but are wired differently. I'll have to test the contacts to make sure.
 

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I recently upgraded all of my lights to LEDs, and in the process purchased some LED Foglights from VLEDs. After searching on this forum, I learned that there are only very minor differences between our H11 socket and the H9 bulbs.

When I ordered my stuff (during VLEDs recent 20% off everything sale), they were out of H11 foglights in 5k white, so I ordered the same bulb in the H9 configuration.

Some recommend modifying the mounting tabs, I found I didn't even have to do that. Only modification I had to make was to shave one of the tabs out of the female bulb socket. Very simple 30 second modification.

Only problem was that when I plugged them in, they didn't work. I tried reversing polarity but still had the same problem. I did some research and learned that the issue could relate to the nominal impedance of the circuit with the LED bulbs versus the standard halogen.

So, I bought a pair of 6 Ohm 50 W resistors, and two pairs of M/F H11/H9 sockets and made two of these:

Lights work perfectly now! Now, I know some people would have just used vampire taps and called it a day, but I wanted something that was easily reversible and didn't modify any of the stock wiring, so I made these adapters, which really only took 30-45 minutes.

So, be advised, if you want to install LED foglights, you can go either H9 or H11, but you may have to add 6 Ohms resistors to each bulb. Hope this is helpful
Followed paulc_dc 's example and ordered some H9's foglights from VLEDS. After shaving the extra little tab inside the socket with a retractable knife (a 5 min operation to do both lights), the fit with the H11 plug was perfect.

These worked right away, I did not need to add resistors.

http://www.vleds.com/bulb/h-series/h9/5k-white-6-led-drl-fog-light-bulbs-h9-1-pair.html

I also changed out the sidemarkers. The LED ones are barely brighter than the stock bulbs, but they were cheap.

http://www.vleds.com/bulb/194-168-158-led/6-a.html







Changing the inside lights made a dramatic difference.



I put up three of these:

http://www.vleds.com/5k-3-led-adjustable-festoon.html

And one of these for the cargo area. A much larger circuit board that this one could have fit in the housing:

http://www.vleds.com/diy6hp.html
 

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Very lazy way out I know this. What do you guys think of this, or has anyone heard anyting? The only thing that concerns me is how am I do prevent corrison and water getting into this other than a TON of electrical tape?

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Warning-Canceller-Decoder-Adapter/dp/B00BLZ7WLS/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp

***EDIT*** WELL I READ THE REVIEW SO I GUESS THEY START FIRES.

Anyways this is something that I want to do but I am not sure how I would like to wire this up on my own.
 

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In case anyone's looking for it. VLEDs doesn't carry the "6K WHITE 2W 4 LED HIGH POWER DOME LIGHT" anymore. This is the replacement:

6K WHITE 1.5W 3 LED HIGH POWER UNIVERSAL DOME LIGHT BULB
http://www.vleds.com/6k-white-1-5w-...ersal-dome-light-bulb-31-36mm-adjustable.html
Yeah, unfortunately most of the vled links in this thread are all old and no longer work. The links on this most recent page seem to work but that's it. Vled seems to rotate out their bulbs regularly. Probably the nature of LED lighting tech being very bleeding edge with high model turn over. Bummer.

I put up three of these:

http://www.vleds.com/5k-3-led-adjustable-festoon.html

And one of these for the cargo area. A much larger circuit board that this one could have fit in the housing:

http://www.vleds.com/diy6hp.html
Not only are the bulb options dizzying but just the friggin adapter options on just ONE bulb is ridiculous. Your cargo bulb link has like 8 or more adapter options. No idea what's standard for our X's. Arg!

And according to vled's parts guide, the DE3175's are suggested for both the map lights AND the cargo/dome lights. WTF?
 

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Not only are the bulb options dizzying but just the friggin adapter options on just ONE bulb is ridiculous. Your cargo bulb link has like 8 or more adapter options. No idea what's standard for our X's. Arg!

And according to vled's parts guide, the DE3175's are suggested for both the map lights AND the cargo/dome lights. WTF?
I have these:
http://www.vleds.com/diy6hp.html

They make an adapter kit its actually pretty simple. The 3175 31mm is the one. Its a bit longer then it should be but you can squeeze them into the place they need to be! I have this light in all of my map and domes through out the X.
 

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I have these:
http://www.vleds.com/diy6hp.html

They make an adapter kit its actually pretty simple. The 3175 31mm is the one. Its a bit longer then it should be but you can squeeze them into the place they need to be! I have this light in all of my map and domes through out the X.
Thanks, man!

Followup question: What's the removal process for the map light on a 2012? I've got the map lights, sunglasses compartment and the blue tooth thing all in one unit. It's pretty big and I'm just wondering if there's any special mojo for popping it off. (don't really want to crack the housing or break any tabs off).
 

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I just got my turn signal LEDs and im having an issue with the rapid click even with the 3ohm resistors installed but only on the passenger side, I tried switching the bulbs from the driver side to the passenger and still the same result of rapid flash on the passenger side. I checked the connections at the resistor and they are snug and the metal piece is pressed all the way down. Anyone else have this issue or I dont know how to tell if its possibly just a bad resistor, or the fuse needs to be changed to a lower amperage? Im still a rookie at troubleshooting electronics but im slowly getting there:)
 

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Thanks, man!

Followup question: What's the removal process for the map light on a 2012? I've got the map lights, sunglasses compartment and the blue tooth thing all in one unit. It's pretty big and I'm just wondering if there's any special mojo for popping it off. (don't really want to crack the housing or break any tabs off).
Pull.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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So one 3ohm per side will stop the hyperflash rather than four? That’s good to know. Looks like only 2 listings on eBay for 3ohm though, lots for 6ohm.

Just bought a set of Cree Led bulbs for the brake/tail lights. Going to see how they look before I buy the other 4.

 

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Anyone else have this issue or I dont know how to tell if its possibly just a bad resistor, or the fuse needs to be changed to a lower amperage?
Most likely bad connection or resistor if it’s just one side. Are the resistors both the same Ohm rating? A fuse only prevents the load from drawing too much power, it has nothing to do with flash rate.



What's the removal process for the map light on a 2012? I've got the map lights, sunglasses compartment and the blue tooth thing all in one unit. It's pretty big and I'm just wondering if there's any special mojo for popping it off. (don't really want to crack the housing or break any tabs off).
Remove the cover over the blue tooth mic to get a better grip and lower the sunglasses holder to grab inside it’s recess. Pull straight down, the tabs are metal, I’ve pulled mine down well over a dozen times and it still holds just fine.
 

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Just browsing thru the thread, some of the links in the first page no longer work (understandable since its from 2008) and the xterramod website doesn't work anymore. Just wanted to let some know in case they wanted to update it.
 
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