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Discussion Starter #1
Looking around, and I was wondering if there have been any advances in on-board water.

I'm planning on getting myself setup with on-board air for adding pressure but if I want to get my partner involved in the great outdoors, I need a HOT shower.

I've looked at the heat exchangers and tbh I'm not sure if there's enough space to mount one in the X and I worry about my own technical skills rigging it up.

Has anyone got other good methods for onboard hot water? I've also considered a custom built application, which might be one way to go, utilizing the immersion heater from Rinsekit and a custom tank.
 

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I use a Zodi dual burner shower.
With their 12volt pump off the car battery.
shower head can be placed back in water tank to recirculate until desired temp is reached , but I dont normally have to do that.
It is damn hot after dual burner heat exchange.

storage case doubles as water tank.







 

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Here is my OBW system: Onboard Water Tank

It works very well and so far served me in two camping trips, one of them 3 days and the other a whole week. It's not air pressurized, instead I use a water pump. It's still ambient temp water, but I've also got the heat exchanger and have some plans to make the proper bracket and install it in the engine bay.
 

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I use a Zodi dual burner shower.
With their 12volt pump off the car battery.
shower head can be placed back in water tank to recirculate until desired temp is reached , but I dont normally have to do that.
It is damn hot after dual burner heat exchange.

storage case doubles as water tank.







I always wondered if that thing worked. Looks like it's pretty well made, but how much of a pain is it to set up, use, and tear down?
 

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Probably not quite what you had in mind, but I've been eyeing one of these for a long time:
https://roadshower.com/

Price may seem a little high, but it's probably less expensive and complicated than burners, fuel, water pumps, and heat exchangers. And I doubt I would be using it in the wintertime anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is my OBW system: Onboard Water Tank

It works very well and so far served me in two camping trips, one of them 3 days and the other a whole week. It's not air pressurized, instead I use a water pump. It's still ambient temp water, but I've also got the heat exchanger and have some plans to make the proper bracket and install it in the engine bay.
Would anyone mind running me through what it would take to install a heat exchanger? It seems like a fairly simple concept, Cold water in, hot coolant in, hot water out, slightly cooler coolant out. But I'm not really familiar with which hose on the radiator I need to splice into. I assume I could splice into the outflow to engine, and it would still be plenty hot. However, not ever having worked with the radiator before I am intimidated by the pressure and heat that might go through this system. I would love to hear how people go about installing these heat exchangers.
 

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Would anyone mind running me through what it would take to install a heat exchanger? It seems like a fairly simple concept, Cold water in, hot coolant in, hot water out, slightly cooler coolant out. But I'm not really familiar with which hose on the radiator I need to splice into. I assume I could splice into the outflow to engine, and it would still be plenty hot. However, not ever having worked with the radiator before I am intimidated by the pressure and heat that might go through this system. I would love to hear how people go about installing these heat exchangers.

As I mentioned, I haven't done it yet. Just planned and researched. Asking about where to splice, here was my question and peoples answer:

How To: Tap a Heat Exchanger to coolant hoses
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Would anyone mind running me through what it would take to install a heat exchanger? It seems like a fairly simple concept, Cold water in, hot coolant in, hot water out, slightly cooler coolant out. But I'm not really familiar with which hose on the radiator I need to splice into. I assume I could splice into the outflow to engine, and it would still be plenty hot. However, not ever having worked with the radiator before I am intimidated by the pressure and heat that might go through this system. I would love to hear how people go about installing these heat exchangers.

As I mentioned, I haven't done it yet. Just planned and researched. Asking about where to splice, here was my question and peoples answer:

How To: Tap a Heat Exchanger to coolant hoses
Awesome!! Thanks, I'm definitely going to follow along with your build!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome!! Thanks, I'm definitely going to follow along with your build!!!

Don't overlook these options as well:


Mr. Heater BOSS-XB13 Basecamp Battery Operated Shower System

Coleman Hot Water on Demand H2Oasis Portable Water Heater

RinseKit Plus Portable Shower

Neither is a perfect solution, but anyhow they are all options. At the end, it might be cheaper, and since they are portable, you can use them with other cars, too.
As interesting as those options are, they take up a lot of cargo space. The more I read up on the heater hose exchanger, the more I like it. It's outside of my comfort zone, but in the end, if I can pull it off, my X will be looking sharp. I've read some more about them on other sites and the last thing I'm worried about is routing of the heater hoses in that tight area. I'm hoping I can just get some short lengths of gates greenstripe and it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Turning this into a build thread.

Going to begin updating this as I build this system.

First is finding a place for the tank and sourcing the parts. I liked the placement in the spare tire void I saw in another thread. I plan on installing a tank there, today I will be measuring the depth, length and width of the void and finding a tank. The major concern is building a suitable frame for the tank which can be released using fasteners which will extend into the hidden cargo area for ease of access.

I think that the Valterra 12 Gallon Freshwater tank will fit in the void, at 8" deep, 24" long and 16" wide. If not, the 9 gallon certainly will at 18" long. The plan will be to place 4 14-gauge unistruts on the top and bottom across the width to distribute weight and support the tank. Two pieces will run along the length of the bottom to hold front and back and also take weight. The benefit of the lateral unistrut is that I can thread a single bolt through the top to bottom and tighten down to provide physical support to the tank, additionally, the longitudinal struts will help objects (rocks?) slide along the unit. A piece of sheet may be placed as a skid plate between the lateral and longitudinal struts. See the photo below for the layout!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After measuring this morning, I don't know if I need quite that many weight bearing bolts, and I may need to reduce the number simple due to where I can put the "easily". I can easily put two in the frame crossmember which should be the strongest, another two will enter from the cargo hatch. I do not yet know if I'll be able to place more than that without going through hollow body parts or having bolt heads sticking out. More to follow!
 

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Your leaf pack appears to be flat.
With what appears to be a crease in your exhaust pipe.
and articulation is limited by the stock anti-sway still attached.
Rear stock bumpstop could be replaced by a Timbren to gain more cushion on up travel.

You will gain additional clearance with a new leaf pack and the removal of the stock trailer hitch(hitch can be integrated with rear bumper).

IMHO might wanna tackle some of those before adding the additional weight of a tank and water load.

9 gallons will add an additional 75 pounds
12 gallons will add an additional 100 pounds

after a little more thought, you may also want to relocate the evap canister if the tank is to be permanent in location.
if not then the water tank may need to be dropped out when you need to change the evap canister. it is a least worth considering while doing all of you measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Your leaf pack appears to be flat.
With what appears to be a crease in your exhaust pipe.
and articulation is limited by the stock anti-sway still attached.
Rear stock bumpstop could be replaced by a Timbren to gain more cushion on up travel.

You will gain additional clearance with a new leaf pack and the removal of the stock trailer hitch(hitch can be integrated with rear bumper).

IMHO might wanna tackle some of those before adding the additional weight of a tank and water load.

9 gallons will add an additional 75 pounds
12 gallons will add an additional 100 pounds

after a little more thought, you may also want to relocate the evap canister if the tank is to be permanent in location.
if not then the water tank may need to be dropped out when you need to change the evap canister. it is a least worth considering while doing all of you measurements.
Thanks Chris! I was going to call today but I got busy. Would larger shackles cause the leaf spring to appear flat? I don't believe it's flat yet, but it might well be, I'll look into either replacing altogether or adding a leaf.

I didn't notice a crease today or the other day when I was under there, but I'll head out right now and check.

I'm actually ok with the hitch for now until I can purchase an integrated hitch and spare wheel swing-away. In regards to that and the swaybar I don't plan on doing any heavy trail driving for a while, call this a forest service roads and camping rig. Would more articulation really help in this situation? Or is that just something I should think about.

The tank SHOULD be able to be dropped for maintenance, that was my original intent. 🙂

I really appreciate your input! I'll look into fixing the things you've mentioned, and grabbing some of those timbrens.
 

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I've seen a couple rigs with 6" or 8" PVC painted black and attached to the roof rack. Heats up via solar and uses air pressure or on-demand RV pump for showering.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Update:
Today, I noticed, for the first time, corrosion building up around the heat exchanger I added to my heater hoses.

The exchanger is stainless steel with copper brazing. The fittings are brass. There was a lot of discussion on a forum I read, stating that there's no issue with this combo...but I'm worried now.

I will welcome all input and ideas for solutions. I'm not sure why this began happening.... 😞
 

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