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Discussion Starter #1
so what is the trick to removing the oil filter without taking skid off. i can't take it off because the skid of my bullbar blocks access to two of the bolts. i changed the filter by just removing the little door, but it made a little mess. it's hard to get my big mitts up there in that little hole so what is the trick or is it just the way it is? took me 2 hours to do an oil change, but 1 hour or more of that was spent struggling to get the old crush washer off the bolt. it has never been changed it looks like and the dealer must have torqued it to 50 ft lbs or more......

i used mobile 1 extended life full synthetic and an extended oil filter, mobile 1. 15k miles good for, but will change out at 7k because the dealer might not like that...
 

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you can go in from the passenger side to get behind the front skid, makes it a little easier, as far as not spilling oil everywhere, best way is to slowly remove the filter, twist a little bit to allow oil to come out slowly instead of in a large gush. patience is the key.

some people use the ziplock bag technique and hold a bag under the oil filter so all the oil dumps right in that instead of sliding down the ramp.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
seems to run way better since the oil change! can't believe it and no more rattle on startup. dealer was putting in 10w-30 now i am using 5w-30 mobile 1 synthetic
 

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silverflash said:
seems to run way better since the oil change! can't believe it and no more rattle on startup. dealer was putting in 10w-30 now i am using 5w-30 mobile 1 synthetic
wow, the dealer doesn't even know that the recommended viscocity is 5w-30; what a shame.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
lifeinthesouth said:
silverflash said:
seems to run way better since the oil change! can't believe it and no more rattle on startup. dealer was putting in 10w-30 now i am using 5w-30 mobile 1 synthetic
wow, the dealer doesn't even know that the recommended viscocity is 5w-30; what a shame.


well i mentioned it to them on numerous occasions, this last time to the service manager and he went on saying it doesn't matter in this climate, and after i mentioned to him the fact that my owners manual for a 2007 xterra (2006 i believe states you can use 10w-30 too) states that you can only use 5w-30 oil and i asked him if nissan would authorize an engine claim on my vehicle down the road if necessary if i continue to use the 10w-30, he went on to say "i've been doing this for 43 years and have never seen a warranty clain for engine denied etc". i dunno, the manual says what it says for reasons only nissan engineers know i am sure.

they told me it would cost additional if using 5w-30 because they would go have to go down the street to purchase it special since all they use is 10w-30. I am emailing Nissan USA again. I think this practice should stop...
 

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+1 on the ziplock bag. We use em all the time when we change filters on our choppers, which are usually mounted in a tight place at a bad angle. You wont catch all of the mess, but you can get most of it. Just be careful if the oil is real hot, it can melt a ziplock. If you do miss some, just wash out the skid plate with some spray brake part cleaner and mop up the mess.
 

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No bull bar here. I do take the skid off every time. Had to take the skid off on the '01 as well. I agree, that patience is key - slowly turning the oil filter will allow it to fall down the slide instead of gushing out everywhere.

I use 10W30 and have had no problems (32K miles, so far). Keeping your fluids and filters clean (and topped off) is the most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your X.
 

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I use 10w-30 because it doesn't ever get below 40 deg F where I live. The manual clearly states that you can use it as an alternative to 5w-30 if you don't operate below 10 deg F or whatever. My feeling on the engine rattle is more to do with the synthetics pumpability and the filters anti-drainback valve not being a POS (like Fram). btw, I have never experienced any oil pressure rattle on start-up with mine.

I know that chemists and oil people say there isn't a difference, but I feel better with a 10w base in 110 degree desert summers.

try getting toyota 0w-20. The manual also clearly states 5w-20 is ok, and that is easy to find since 5w-20 motorcraft Ford oil is everywhere.

ON EDIT: as far as the skid thing, I spray brake cleaner all over the top of it and let it wash the oil off of the areas I can't reach. Be sure to put cardboard and paper down.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
mike100 said:
I use 10w-30 because it doesn't ever get below 40 deg F where I live. The manual clearly states that you can use it as an alternative to 5w-30 if you don't operate below 10 deg F or whatever. My feeling on the engine rattle is more to do with the synthetics pumpability and the filters anti-drainback valve not being a POS (like Fram). btw, I have never experienced any oil pressure rattle on start-up with mine.

I know that chemists and oil people say there isn't a difference, but I feel better with a 10w base in 110 degree desert summers.

try getting toyota 0w-20. The manual also clearly states 5w-20 is ok, and that is easy to find since 5w-20 motorcraft Ford oil is everywhere.

ON EDIT: as far as the skid thing, I spray brake cleaner all over the top of it and let it wash the oil off of the areas I can't reach. Be sure to put cardboard and paper down.
my manual states nothing about 10w-30. Yours is not a 2007 right? I thik they made the change for 2007 model year. i know we all have the samee ngine (05-08) but the manual says what it says. I know how lawyers can be.......


I will stick with 5w-30 synthetic.

:)
 

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to get the washer off, I use a small screw driver and gently pry it up and get it loose from there I just hold the washer in my hand and turn the bolt and they come a part just fine. It has worked 3 times for me.
 
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