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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When I replaced the shocks on my X I replaced the sway bar bushings and end links in the hope of never needing to do anything other than the occasional shot of grease for the life of the X. The X just hasn't felt as planted over 65 up to 80mph since, and I've gone over things in the effort to make sure I didn't dummy something up.

The only thing that's obvious after going over it is the Moog sway bar bushings don't have a compressed look like what I'm assuming was the OEM bushings. The split in them isn't compressed together, the old ones looked like the split couldn't have been any more compressed. I took the steel plate that surrounds them off last night and just didn't see where I could do anything different mounting them. Did I miss something simple? Was Moog from Rockauto a bad choice? Do they just look like this sometimes and it doesn't cause any problems in of itself?

The steel plate that surrounds the bushing has the bolts tightened down the whole way so the plate is flush against what it screws into.

Never mind the greasy look, I Fluid Filmed the undercarriage in preparation for the massive amount of salt they'll be spreading this winter.

 

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Your bushings definitely don't look right to me.
Do some research to see if Energy Suspension offers a bushing for our application.
Ps: If memory serves me correctly, a stabilizer bar bushing for a same year Titan is suppose to match our own.
This bit of info may provide you with a few more options.

Lastly, take a good look at your tie rod ends as these items can become worn and cause issues such as your sharing.

I would replace your bar bushings regardless.
 

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Based on my research, it appears Nissan made a change in their stabilizer bar bushing design at some point.

If correct, this should be the new part number
54613-ZV50A

Pretty cheap off amazon
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input @Just a Hunter. Bushings are cheap, so yeah, best to just replace with OEM since I was happy with them before. Fwiw the part number for my '11 was 54613-ZL10A as given by my local dealer so that's what I'll be putting on. I wish I hadn't thrown away my old ones now so I could compare them, but I'll do that with the new OEM's vs the Moogs and update the thread.
 

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The bushings that hold the sway bar to the frame are only there for that reason. Why they are rubber or other elastomer is for noise/vibe isolation only. The sway bar acts by twisting action on it from the opposite ends. The bushings are not gonna grip the sway bar tight enough to increase the twisting force (torque) in the sway bar. If the mounts are sloppy enough so that the sway bar rocks a little, that will decrease the action of the sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Installed the OEM bushings tonight. The only noticable difference besides where they're split was the OEM had a narrow lip at both ends that made the hole slightly smaller. I'll need some time to see if they've made any difference since how the X felt changed with weather conditions. At the worst I spent $13 so I don't have to look at the big gaps anymore.



OEM on the left, Moog K200347 on the right.



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Drove it in the driving rain Friday, towed in blustery wind yesterday and the missus is driving us home pulling the enclosed trailer today. I can't say why but the OEM bushing has made a world of difference. I never would have guessed that piece of rubber could have affected the steering/feel this much.
 

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I'm happy you resolved this problem.
 

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The diameter of the hole in the oem bushing looks smaller than the bushing you replaced. I am thinking the Moog bushing was allowing the sway bar to rock (driver side to passenger side) resulting in making the sway bar ineffective.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The diameter of the hole in the oem bushing looks smaller than the bushing you replaced. I am thinking the Moog bushing was allowing the sway bar to rock (driver side to passenger side) resulting in making the sway bar ineffective.
The OEM bushing has a small lip, maybe 1/32" wide, that goes around the ID on both ends of the bushing. It makes the hole look a little smaller, you can see it as a lighter area if you look at the top of the photo. Real world I'd guess it's there for cosmetic reasons to make the ends look compressed when installed.

I tried to measure the hole with calipers, but split rubber doesn't make it easy, let's just say they're close. If I'd thought of it I'd have put the bushing into the metal bracket that surrounds it to see if I could get a better measurement. I also considered the rubber could be a different compound between the two and that might be the cause of the difference in driving feel.
 
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