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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my X back yesterday 2006 MT,I have driven this truck for 115,000 miles. Upon picking up the first thing I noticed was the clutch pedal hit the floor with very little resistance. While driving I did not feel the pull, power or torque I have become used to. Secondly, it seems it revs between 3000 to 4000 rpm too fast between 1st & 2nd and 2nd & 3rd Gears. Finally, when remove foot off the accelerator and press in the clutch to change gears all the way to the floor, the engine appears to Rev up before it drops to a level good for shifting and reengaging.

I immediately took it back to the mechanic to explain my concern, he stated it felt fine and and the pedal stiffness would return with time. He did not address extended rpm or "Whirrr" sound between shifts. I was not sure if it was relearning or something so I have been really aware of my shifting process. I have even reset the ECU just to be sure. I am not convinced that this is normal and would love some feedback as to what you might believe is happening.

Parts replaced:
Clutch: Exedy Clutch Kit
Flywheel: Luk

Also to address the clutch pedal I am having my brake/clutch oil flush, filled and bled tomorrow.

Thanks

B
 

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The extended RPM as you describe is probably from a lighter flywheel. I would check your fluid level to make sure it at the correct level to make sure the light clutch feel isn't from low fluid. As for the torque feel, it might just need an adjustment to the clutch plate to seat all the way to the flywheel. You can do that yourself, but do it in small intervals so you don't go to far that you can't fully disengage the clutch. http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34178&highlight=clutch+adjust Hope this helps you out and clears up your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank you Boogy, I am going to flush and bleed fluid, as for the adjustment you recommended, I will def try that!. I do not believe the flywheel is lighter as it is labeled "exact fit" http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/Xterra/Luk/Flywheel/2006/X/6_Cyl_4-dot-0L/LUKDMF098.html?tlc=Engine+&+Drivetrain&intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

To further add to my concerns I took it out for a serious road/offroad test:
* Struggles to exceed 80MPH - I have had it 100 MPH+ pre repair
* When switching to 4LO - it seems to engage, but the LO light continues to blink
 

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Struggles to get to 80mph? As in the clutch is slipping? Either it is engaged or isn't. I don't see how a clutch would keep you from hitting higher speeds if it isn't slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It doesn't seem to be slipping, just not the pull that was there before. Per my previous post, it is RPMing much higher in gear, and even revs up a bit between shifts. This was not the case before clutch rebuild.
 

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If it isn't slipping, and the engine is running smoothly, the only other thing I can think of is that it is in your head?
 

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There is nothing that I can think of that would explain the engine increasing in rpm between shifts.

Reading this none of these symptoms make any sense for a clutch. Other parts replaced? Throw out bearing? Grasping at straws a bit with this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Satown...that helped none... I did go back to Mechanic and he feels the "whir" sound is in the exhaust, but it only happens when shifting up. Does not occur when gassing in neutral or clutchless shifting. As for the 4LO light, the plug connection was not in. With that the 4LO torque returned. I am going to road test it a bit more to see if it improves and if not I will get the opinion of another mechanic.
 

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The lighter pedal effort is expected. As the clutch wears the effort goes up. Since it happens slowly as it wears you don't notice it. Until you have a sudden change, the new clutch.

The reving when pressing the clutch is a fairly common in these trucks. They all do it, driving pattern is what makes it apparent or not.

Add in the ECM probably got a reset with the battery disconnected for a day while the clutch was replaced. So it will have to go through the self learn again.
 

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If the clutch is slipping, you can tell by watching the speedo and tach while accelerating in a higher gear. Speedo and tach should move proportionally. In 4th, floor it, then watch the tach and speedo. If the clutch is slipping, at one point the tach will start to rise faster in relation to the speedo, and if you let off the gas, the tach will drop without much change in speed.

But, if you can't go over 80, why? Is there simply not enough "oomph," or does the engine redline in 6th when you're going 80?

The increase in RPM between shifts may simply be caused by the engagement point (how far you need to press the clutch) changing with the new clutch. If it releases with less movement, you may still be on the gas, causing the increase. If so, it's a timing thing and you'll adapt to it shortly.There's nothing with the clutch itself which would give the engine more throttle.

You say you can't go over 80. When you try, record the speed/gear/rpm and let us know. If the clutch isn't slipping, that almost has to be an engine issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I think I am being distracted mostly by the between shifting sound. After consulting another mechanic he feels that the throw out bearing is the cause of the "whir" sound, It does not occur until I have been driving for a short while and I can feel it in the clutch pedal. As for the sped , yes it can exceed 80, it has appeared to feel different in the way it is getting there and I am sure the ECU reset has something to do with that. I recall when I first moved to altitude it needed to be reset a couple times. As for my mechanic, I am sure he is looking for any reason to not have to take my truck apart...again. Expensive repairs suck. Thanks all!
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Did he replace the throw out bearing when he had it apart to do the clutch? If he didn't, get a new mechanic. You only ever want to drop the transmission once for the clutch, so you replace everything in there at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Agreed WestRacing, kind of like cutting wood.. measure 2x, before cutting. Anyway, my mechanic stated that the new bearing was in the kit. When I suggested it was the bearing and not the exhaust, he did not want to jump to any conclusions. I think he is hoping that the sound will go away. He asked me to drive it a 200 - 300 miles to let the Clutch and flywheel break-in and if it is still making the noise he would further examine. Now, after much research on the throw-out bearing and the symptomatic noise's and vibration through the clutch pedal, I feel like I am humoring him at this point. Will fill in more in a couple weeks... I feel like I should be charging my own personal rate of $42/hr for the research, multiple returns to his shop.
 

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I hear the noise. Doesn't sound right but I have no idea what it could be really. Almost seems like the clutch isn't disengaging right away.
 

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I had the exact same thoughts ... sorry I can't be more help; that's an odd one, and I agree something's off.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So here is the latest, I can recreate the Whir noise by RPMing to 3000 and holding in the clutch... When I release clutch the sound disappears. Additionally, I am able to feel the vibration of the fork as well as hear the vibration with a stethoscope. I am sufficiently convinced it is a defective throw-out bearing. Will know more tomorrow, she is going back to the shop....
 
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