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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive been posting in another thread that doesnt seem to be getting any traction.. so Ill try a new one.


couple weeks ago driving down the hwy, threw p1757, trans went into 4th and stayed there. Nissan confirmed p1757, front brake solenoid cricuit bad. they want to replace the entire trans at about $5k cost.

Obviously I dont want to pay that much. I put in a call to another local trans shop to see what they can do it for.

my next best option is to order a reman valve body+TCM and swap it out myself. I found a company that sells them for $500


comes pre programmed so it should be a direct swap in..

Anyone got any better ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Talked to local trans shop, SUPER cool dude.

explained the situation to him, he had very valid and relevant questions, and thoughts.

a very rare for this to happen without "contamination" what we call smod.

he also kinda agreed with what nissan said in that replacing the valve body/ tcm with this many miles was risky. he said the new fluid acts like a detergent and breaks up old gunk which causes issues. I told him that i do a drain and fill about once a year, and what i have done to prevent smod. which was bypassed when i first got it, then i changed the radiator out and re-routed it through the new radiator. he said that even once the rad is replaced he suggests against re routing the trans lines thorugh it, idk, he says any radiator can leak, which i suppose is true.

anyways, he said that he likely would charge around $5k to put in a reman trans, about the same as nissan.

I told him about the reman valve body/ tcm that is pre programmed at $500 and he straight up said i should probably try that as its a good deal, and otherwise I'm likely looking at the reman trans at around $5k.

So, pretty sure that's what im gonna do is try the replacement VB/TCM and hope it works. I'd this truck to get me by another couple years or so before buying a new one.
 

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Talked to local trans shop, SUPER cool dude.

explained the situation to him, he had very valid and relevant questions, and thoughts.

a very rare for this to happen without "contamination" what we call smod.

he also kinda agreed with what nissan said in that replacing the valve body/ tcm with this many miles was risky. he said the new fluid acts like a detergent and breaks up old gunk which causes issues. I told him that i do a drain and fill about once a year, and what i have done to prevent smod. which was bypassed when i first got it, then i changed the radiator out and re-routed it through the new radiator. he said that even once the rad is replaced he suggests against re routing the trans lines thorugh it, idk, he says any radiator can leak, which i suppose is true.

anyways, he said that he likely would charge around $5k to put in a reman trans, about the same as nissan.

I told him about the reman valve body/ tcm that is pre programmed at $500 and he straight up said i should probably try that as its a good deal, and otherwise I'm likely looking at the reman trans at around $5k.

So, pretty sure that's what im gonna do is try the replacement VB/TCM and hope it works. I'd this truck to get me by another couple years or so before buying a new one.
I'm sorry I don't have any input, but please keep us updated. A $5k is tragic, hopefully the $500 option will fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm sorry I don't have any input, but please keep us updated. A $5k is tragic, hopefully the $500 option will fix the issue.
I just got it back from Nissan. Im going to go ahead and drop the pan and pull the vb/tcm and check it out. pretty sure im going to go ahead and order the replacement as well. I kinda need my truck to not be a brick taking up the garage so while im not on a strict time frame, i need to get this done sooner rather than later.

crazy thing is it worked fine the first like mile or so home, then got stuck in 4th again.
 

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I just got it back from Nissan. Im going to go ahead and drop the pan and pull the vb/tcm and check it out. pretty sure im going to go ahead and order the replacement as well. I kinda need my truck to not be a brick taking up the garage so while im not on a strict time frame, i need to get this done sooner rather than later.

crazy thing is it worked fine the first like mile or so home, then got stuck in 4th again.
I called my transmission shop just out of curiosity, they quoted $3500 for a rebuilt tranny. Might want to shop around a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I called my transmission shop just out of curiosity, they quoted $3500 for a rebuilt tranny. Might want to shop around a little bit.

idk i guess i could call around some more, I already got 2 qoutes and they are the same. even at $3500, I'd be trying to fix it myself anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK so, Help me make sure im prepared, what do i need?

New trans pan gasket?

i have all necessary tools for this job.

1.5 gl or so of maticc s compatible atf

drain pan..

new part

do i need gasker maker/ sealer on there?

that seems like it right?
 

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OK so, Help me make sure im prepared, what do i need?

New trans pan gasket?

i have all necessary tools for this job.

1.5 gl or so of maticc s compatible atf

drain pan..

new part

do i need gasker maker/ sealer on there?

that seems like it right?
All you need is the programmed TCM, gasket, a 10mm socket., and a small screwdriver to unplug 2 connectors inside. You don't even need to remove the crossmember to swap it out, no RTV needed.

They sell screen/gasket combos for fairly cheap if the new valve body doesn't come with the screen installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All you need is the programmed TCM, gasket, a 10mm socket., and a small screwdriver to unplug 2 connectors inside. You don't even need to remove the crossmember to swap it out, no RTV needed.

They sell screen/gasket combos for fairly cheap if the new valve body doesn't come with the screen installed.
TY, I just ordered a filter & gasket combo JIC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just got a UPS shipping notice from streetsmart, so far so good..

also before that they emailed me asking to confirm the vin, also sounds good.
 

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I have dealt with the dreaded P1757. Look for my older posts, I did a write up as have others here on how to crack open the valve body and repair the cracked trace. Look at post #2 video and #6 a quick write up I did that you can print and take out to the rig with you.

 

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@mtnbound MAKE SURE you check solenoids with a multimeter before installing/test driving. I dealt with StreetSmart when I rebuilt my trans and did all the work just to have their faulty unit mess up my rebuild and I had to order another set of friction clutches.

Do you have pics of your current valve body?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@mtnbound MAKE SURE you check solenoids with a multimeter before installing/test driving. I dealt with StreetSmart when I rebuilt my trans and did all the work just to have their faulty unit mess up my rebuild and I had to order another set of friction clutches.

Do you have pics of your current valve body?
thanks for the info. I wasnt even sure if the streetsmart unit would come with the solenoids or not I hoped it would.

I have not taken my old one out yet, as im waiting for all the parts/ supplies, as well as for a time when i have time to do it. the new parts are supposd to be here on tuesday, which would be great as im off tue/ wed and would do it then.

Ill make sure to take pics as i go through theprocess, assuming i can find a sec when my hands arent covered in atf lol

I'm also really curious to see how the original VB/TCM look as well, I may or may not try to take the old one apart and look at the circuitry.

I dont really know much about electrnoics, i've never "Tested ohms" or anything like that. not even sure how really, nor do i have the tester.

I was hoping this was going to be plug and play..
 

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thanks for the info. I wasnt even sure if the streetsmart unit would come with the solenoids or not I hoped it would.

I have not taken my old one out yet, as im waiting for all the parts/ supplies, as well as for a time when i have time to do it. the new parts are supposd to be here on tuesday, which would be great as im off tue/ wed and would do it then.

Ill make sure to take pics as i go through theprocess, assuming i can find a sec when my hands arent covered in atf lol

I'm also really curious to see how the original VB/TCM look as well, I may or may not try to take the old one apart and look at the circuitry.

I dont really know much about electrnoics, i've never "Tested ohms" or anything like that. not even sure how really, nor do i have the tester.

I was hoping this was going to be plug and play..
It is “plug and play” but it would be better to check them since even big businesses can make mistakes as I went back and forth with StreetSmart over this issue.

You can tinker with the one you’ll be returning (core) that way you can dig in to it and see if the solenoid was the only issue.
 

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I would highly recommend getting a decent multimeter and finding a website or book on basic electronics. Here is a quick and simplified lesson on the very basic electronic theory of Ohms Law.

V/R = I
V x I = P

V is Voltage (sometimes called potential), measured in Volts. This is the force that pushes electricity.

R is Resistance (sometimes called load) measured in Ohms (which is symbolized with the Greek Omega symbol). This is the electrical property of whatever apparatus is "consuming" the electricity.

I is Current (sometimes called induction. I know, the initials are confusing. Just go with it) measured in Amps. This is the actual flow of electricity.

P is Power (sometimes called VoltAmps. That gets into more advanced theory though) measured in Watts. This is the work performed by an electrical circuit.

A voltage, such as in a battery, is applied to a load, such as in a lightbulb. The resistance of the load and the voltage of the battery will determine how much current will flow according to Ohms law. Additionally, the combination of voltage and resistance and subsequent current flow will create power, again accordingly with Ohms Law.

As voltage increases, current flow and subsequently power also increase. As resistance increases, current flow and subsequently power decrease.

Before you measure the resistance of a load, you would first set your multimeter to the Ohms setting. A decent meter will have a "continuity" toner. Continuity simply means that there is a continuous path for electricity to flow. If you touch the two leads of the tester together, you complete the electrical path in the meter and it will sound a tone or beep for as long as you hold the leads together. The display should also read zero. Zero Ohms means no resistance, which is a short circuit. (Looking at the Ohms law equations, zero resistance results in infinite current flow. That's usually a bad thing. Think sparks and fireworks). With the leads separated, there will be no tone and the meter will display something like "inf" meaning infinite resistance and no continuity. This is known as an open circuit. By doing this quick check you ensure the meter is working and doesn't have a dead battery or something.

Then to test the load, you touch the metal leads of the tester to the metal wires or connectors of what you want to test. Typically there would be a red "plus" or "hot" wire bringing voltage and current to the device from the battery and a black "minus" or "cold" or "common" (so many names!) wire to return the current to the battery thereby completing the circuit. In a car there can be multiple circuits in one wire harness so many colors are used. Typically the colors will be marked in the wiring diagrams in the fsm.

For the resistance test plus and minus doesn't really matter. What does matter is that you have the load disconnected from the voltage source. You do not want to apply your ohm meter to a voltage, that can fry it. It's also important that the leads not touch eachother or any other metallic objects like the frame. It's fine to hold the leads and wires together with your fingers, just don't let them touch anything else metallic as that can give you a false reading. Also, make sure all contact surfaces are clean. Dirt and grime are more resistive than conductive.

As long as each lead of the tester is touching each wire of the circuit the meter will show the resistance of the circuit. Again, zero Ohms is a short and infinite Ohms is an open circuit. Both indicate a bad device. The fsm should give you the acceptable resistance range for the device. As long as your measured resistance is within that range the device is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Today I got all the fluids, I think I actually have everything to do both diffs, the trans, engine oil, and the t case, not sure on the tcase though. . i may hold off on that one. but, i figure i might as well go ahead and do it all while its" in the shop" lol.

Ill start tuesday morning draining fluids and the part should arrive sometime in the afternoon to reinstall and fill er up. . I cant wait to get this done! the anticipation is driving me nuts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Alright well i've made some good progress!

eased into the day with an oil/ Filter change, looking good there.

then i moved to the back and did the rear diff, also looking good.

Next onto the trans. let it drain for a while, started loosening the pan bolts, some of them were really in there tight!

Finally got the pan off, that was a mess! and the old gasket really didnt want to come off! that took some scraping!

got the pan all cleaned up, letting the remaining fluid drip off the valve body.

Waiting for the new valve body to arrive, I have an appt from 3-4 so it was a good time to take a break, hopefully ill get a delivery soon.

after the appt im going to tackle removing the old valve body. I dont really expect that to be too hard, other than having trans fluid dripping all over the place..

I am abit anxious about disconnecting the wiring . I see some folks say to remove the retainer from the top and pull the whole wiring harness down, others say to leave that there and just disconnect it from insde, which seems harder as you have to hold the valve body up while trying to disconnect it with the other hand..

Im probably just going to swap the new on right on in so i can get it buttoned back up and refilled.

trans fluid looked dark, but there was 100% NO contamination in the fluid that came out. the magnets had a fair bit of fine metal particulate on them, not too concerning i suppose with 170k miles on it.

I took a ton of pics, dont have time to post them now, more to come!
 

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Alright well i've made some good progress!

eased into the day with an oil/ Filter change, looking good there.

then i moved to the back and did the rear diff, also looking good.

Next onto the trans. let it drain for a while, started loosening the pan bolts, some of them were really in there tight!

Finally got the pan off, that was a mess! and the old gasket really didnt want to come off! that took some scraping!

got the pan all cleaned up, letting the remaining fluid drip off the valve body.

Waiting for the new valve body to arrive, I have an appt from 3-4 so it was a good time to take a break, hopefully ill get a delivery soon.

after the appt im going to tackle removing the old valve body. I dont really expect that to be too hard, other than having trans fluid dripping all over the place..

I am abit anxious about disconnecting the wiring . I see some folks say to remove the retainer from the top and pull the whole wiring harness down, others say to leave that there and just disconnect it from insde, which seems harder as you have to hold the valve body up while trying to disconnect it with the other hand..

Im probably just going to swap the new on right on in so i can get it buttoned back up and refilled.

trans fluid looked dark, but there was 100% NO contamination in the fluid that came out. the magnets had a fair bit of fine metal particulate on them, not too concerning i suppose with 170k miles on it.

I took a ton of pics, dont have time to post them now, more to come!
I would say it’s best to remove the retainer clip and push down. That way you just push up when installing the new one. You will have to pull the harness up with pliers or figure out a way to pull the harness up from both sides until you can get the retainer clip on. There are two indents on the harness. Take a picture of how high up the harness is now for reference (I had mine too low the first time and trans fluid squirted out through there).
For mine I just put the gasket that my rebuild kit came with and I just put light thread sealant.
 
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